spillage

I find the baader filters good enough for me and I could not really afford to go up to the next level. Any issues can normally be dealt with within processing.

I got the book from ebay for £19 brand new. I was going to buy it using my google rewards money but after logging in realised that nearly all of it had expired.

After a bit of a wait I finally have the missing pieces to my mount rebuild and I got myself a new book.

Now to put all the bits to good use.

I had no choice and ended up with 36mm filters but I am sure many use the 1.25" filters. I am sure you should not get vignetting using 1.25 but going a little larger for a little bit extra is just covering your bases.

I am sure users of the 1600 and 1.25 filters will be able to provide more info.

I guess it depends on what you want to spend and how long you want to wait. I managed to buy the camera new and got a good deal on a second hand sx 7 filter wheel with baader lrgb ha o11 and s11 filter. 

I do not think I could deal with having to change over filter or filter wheel.

39 minutes ago, Craig123 said:

read up on drift alignment

Drift alignment will only help with PA. I am sure the built in PA of sharpcap may be easier to use as I think its more like the polemaster routine.

I have never used sharpcap but setting up platesolving in APT (which is free) was fairly straight forward. As you are new to imaging I would recommend using N.I.N.A as this is so much like sgpro with a few added bits and is 100% free and uses astap for platesolving.

Not sure what mount you have but I find PHD needs some delicate adjustment of different bits on different nights.

Sometimes I need to adjust the exposure times other times I need to adjust the aggression of maybe RA or just DEC or BOTH.

Just make sure you only make one change at a time a give the mount plenty of time to settle.

If you have a EQ mount then use the bullseye target (think it is the AO but not sure) as this will help with balance issues.

Once calibration has been ran then it will not need doing again as long as you do not remove the guide cam from the guide scope. Also remember to run off a darks library for the guider, if you are new to phd guiding then I would use 0.5 - 4 second darks.

I have always started to use the PHD drift alignment tool as this will put the mount near to the equator/meridian then cancel the drift alignment and run calibration. I do not really use planetarium software so it saves me having to load up cdc and connect the mount and I am a bit lazy.

I know at work we have linked several warehouse's together using standard cat5 that runs overhead. I have been there for 16 years and it has never needed to be changed. I too have ran standard cat5 outside around the perimeter fence and all seems okay for now. Its only cheap so easy to replace.

The ed80 is going to cost you more but will be maintenance free. If you are thinking at any point to move towards a dedicated camera then I find the ed80 causes some microlensing on my asi1600.

The 130pds is much cheaper but from time to time will need to be collimated and I would say stripped and flocked.

I do not think I would ever want to ever sell either though. Maybe one day a dual mount bar will pop up at tempting price.  

Hi @Simon Dunsmore

It may of been created many many years ago in a galaxy far far away, but this thread is very much still alive and kicking  

I had the same mount a few years ago and manged with a 150 6-n so I am sure this would be a perfect scope for the mount. The tripod is a bit wobbly but I did enjoy how easy it was to move about and required no stripping down. 

@Clear Skies! have you considered the second hand market?

Hi

Have a look here as it might help you out a bit.

I would suggest to bite the bullet and go with a mono. Once you stick in a Ha filter and see the results you will be blown away by the results.

I think the osc vs mono always get clouded by the time taken. Yes you could use a osc to dodge clouds take say 10 exposures and end up with a colour image whilst the mono may of only got 10 exposures using the red filter...fair point. The thing to remember is that 10 exposures is not enough to produce a finished image so the osc image will be of a low standard. Also you will get away with less exposures using mono because as @ollypenrice mentioned the mono sensor is used at 100% capacity.

But these are just my thoughts.

Are you using delrin spacers? The mpcc might just need a bit more distance. I had a similar issue. Try another couple of mm and see how looks then, it real pain in the behind to do but worth doing on a night that is not quite good enough for imaging but good enough to image a star field.

Are you using the standard 2" focus thumbscrews. I found adding a third thumbscrew helped and also making sure the focus tube was adjusted to take out as much play as possible. I always push the camera in as far and a firm as possible then just tweak each screw a bit at a time.

Knowing the orientation of the camera would also help work out if its just focus sag.

I think your results are not that bad at all and processing can tighten up the stars.

Slightly off topic but It would be used in the 130pds if I brought one  . Has anyone used one of these?

https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p5417_Lacerta-Thread-Adapter-for-using--Baader-MPCC-with-Skywatcher-Newtonians.html

Maybe clear you cookies?

Don't forget to add 1/3 thickness of the filter into your sums. I used a digital caliper to get to 55mm then just added/removed spacers based on the image produced until I was happy.

If your first image is not right throw in a good couple mm of spacing as this might help you see which way to go. 

I added a compression ring, this one I think and also added a third thumbscrew. I find that if I push the focus tube as far down as possible and then push the camera into it from a central point I can slowly tighten up the screws bit by bit.

I have just come across this.

Only issue so far is that on my main pc it mentions that the m48 female thread is improper and needs rework (i guess rethreading).

Maybe but have a permanent set up and use the same flats for about 6 months or until I see them starting to degrade. @Frank the Troll just noticed how close you are to me, I work in Somerton.

I would imagine that you would end up connecting the camera to the focuser. 😃

Can I just mention that if your getting into AP then you will find that you will not want to remove the camera from the scope if possible and you may end up using another scope for visual.

Removal of the camera will mean you will have to take new flats and if you go back to a project the images will not be aligned 100% so you will loose some of the fov when stacked.

Thank all for the info. I will leave the sealed bearing well alone and just lightly grease the tapered bearing and worm and crown. Just waiting for my spacer to come from the states.