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Astrofriend

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Everything posted by Astrofriend

  1. The Pentax 645 300 mm f/4 ED lens is a heavy piece of metal and glass, it takes long time to adapt it to outdoor's temperature. I have with help of Siril done an analyze of the needed time to come in equilibrium: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-pentax645-300ed/15-pentax645-300ed.html At least 1.5 hours for a delta temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. /Lars
  2. For you who feel that old Pentax 645 lenses is intersting, have a look at the latest photo I took with the Pentax 645 300mm f4 ED lens: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomy-photo/galaxies/m81/m81-m82-galaxies.html /Lars
  3. Hi, I haven't setup an artificial horizon yet. From my balcone the view is very limited. From AZ 20 to 90 and Alt from 25 to 50. When I take the car out to the darkness it could be different places. So I haven't so much need of it and no experience either because of that. But it can be changes in the future, who knows. For the moment I spend a lot of time to understand the INDI drivers and EQMOD, I have to do some changes to it. I want to set Custom dRA, dDEC speeds to follow comets, that's doesn't work. The other is that my mount is rebuilt with different gears and have a different gear ratio. That's not something I can setup in EQMOD INDI. I have that in another thread or on my homepage. /Lars
  4. Hi Ralle, Yes I have all recomended index files stored on the Raspberry's SD card, it's a 32GB card. When I have the mount out on the balcony I remote control it from my Windows PC over the LAN. Works perfect and I can transfer the files, I use the software WinSCP at the PC to transfer the files. I control KStars through UltaraVNC installed on the PC. When out on the field and on battery I control the KStars from my Android pad through WIFI. Not so easy without a keyboard, but most of it run by automatic, I prepare already at home which objects to catch. /Lars
  5. When moving over from Windows to Linux with Raspberry Pi4 computer it's really confusing for a Windows man. The KStars overview system works with Ekos and its INDI drivers. Most problematic has been to get a GPS dongle to work with INDI drivers. With a lot of help from friends and INDI forum I have solved it. I have written it down with pictures how to do it in details. Also the USB-Focus V3 have some problem with other devices "steal" the port. That problem is solved today. All these instructions has been spread out on different projects I have done. Now I collected them at one page to get it easier to find them. http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-kstars-raspberrypi4/12-project-kstars-raspberrypi4.html I hope it can be of help, the Raspberry with KStars is really handsome and perfect when on battery out at dark places. Very low power demands. Examples how I use it: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-ekos-sequencer/01-tutorial-ekos-sequencer.html /Lars
  6. Hi Scotty, Thanks, I added the link to the text. /Lars
  7. If one medium format 300 mm f/4 lens is good, then one more must be even better, or? I found a later version of the lens I already have and felt that I must buy it, not often they are for sale. It's a Pentax 645 FA* 300 mm ED IF f/4 lens. I haven't found all data about it but if I'm right it has 8 lens element insted of 5 that the older lens have. It's much heavier so some extra must there be inside. Here how it looks like: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-pentax645fa-300ed/01-pentax645fa-300ed.html This will be a project for the future, maybe when I get a medium format camera that I can afford, then it needs the extra correction that this lens give. /Lars
  8. I added one more page to my tutorial how to use the Canon Connect app to control the Canon EOS camera. I found a way to disable the annoying behavier of the camera to do a auto focus on every photo it takes but still have the lens in auto focus mode. My tutorial: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-canon-remote-control/page01-tutorial-canon-remote-control.html You find the last on page 4. I use this when I only have the tripod with me, photographing meteor showers etc. /Lars
  9. One rainy day I sat here with Gimp, I got dark pits behind my comets when doing darksubtraction. Testing a new method when I divide the Gaussian Blur filter to a two step process. Much better now. Here how I did it: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-gimp-astrophotography/13-tutorial-gimp-astrophotography-background-subtraction.html /Lars
  10. Hallo, These days I try to get some photos of the comet ZTF C/2022 E3. Soon it starts to move faster relative the stars and there is a need to change the motor speed in the mount. How much the comet's or astroid's speed (dRA, dDEC) are you can get from NASA or CdC (Skychart) but the information is in wrong format. I did a complement to my calculater of angles with a relative speed calculator. From degrees/hour to arcsec/sec: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomy-calculations/angle-conversions/angle-conversions.html I haven't got a clear sky after I finished this calculator and haven't a chance to test it so maybe something wrong, but looks to do the right calculation. Let me know if you have a clear sky somewhere and can test on a comet. /Lars
  11. Hi, My friend Pehr Sällström sent me this interesting article he has written. It's not aimed to astronomy but I still think many of you will find it interesting. https://pscolour.eu/ad/idealcols.htm Why are our brain find some colors better than others. Something to think about when editing astrophotos. /Lars
  12. I had some problem with my 3D-printer and this DIY Flat frame box fell asleep. Now I started it again and have got some very promising result. The key to it is the LED stripe which can be fine adjusted in its color. Note: This is only interesting for color cameras. like my DSLR camera. Here are the details of the project with text and photos: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-flat-calibrator/01-project-flat-calibrator.html It's working now but I 3D-print some new details that correct the small details. /Lars
  13. Hi, I have some old photos of comets taken on film and to the first digital cameras I didn't have correct flat frames. I have used AstroImagesJ to make synthetic flat frames. But didn't work very well when the shape of the vignetting was too complicated. Then I took a new look at Gimp and what it can do. Found it to be very advanced and relative easy to correct the vignetting. I added a new page on my Gimp tutorial how to do this: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-gimp-astrophotography/14-tutorial-gimp-astrophotography-vignetting.html Merry Christmas to you all ! /Lars
  14. It will not be any problem with your language, I understood and also all other Swedes will do. On the other hand most Swedish people are skilled on English, much better than I'm. /Lars
  15. I have many years dreamed about a medium format system for the telescope. Some cameras like the Fujifilm GFX 50 R are cheap as used. But there are some problem with them so I haven't invested in a MF camera yet. Until better cameras has arrived I play around in the CAD program to design an off-axis guider that can be used with medium format cameras or a full frame mirrorless camera. Here is my CAD drawing ideas: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-medium-format-offaxis/01-project-medium-format-offaxis.html The working space between the flange of the lens, Pentax 645, and the mirrorless MF camera is 44.17 mm or even more with a full frame mirrorless camera. I have also implemented two filter draw boxes. This is more because it's fun to test ideas, maybe there will never be a MF camera. But a full frame mirrorless I can buy today if I want. /Lars
  16. Sorry, that was the only photo of the clock, but I upload a crop in full resolution here, maybe more details to see. Malcom, Sweden is a very long country, just about 1500 km to walk to the telescope from Kungsleden. You have its location here: https://goo.gl/maps/MFQsJf4Mj7WzNjkM9 I'm not aware of any old observatories in Northern Sweden, but this temporarly observatory was setup 1914 to observe the solar eclipse: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomy-articles/solar-eclipse-1914/solar-eclipse-1914.html This is in Northern Sweden, Esrange. Maybe interesting to have a look at ? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Esrange Early morning updates about Tamm's telescope: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/observatory-sites/tamms-observatory/01b-tamms-observatory.html /Lars
  17. Now I have photos of the big Schmitt Cassegrain telescope at Tamm's observatory. Here is the story with photos, the new at page 1b: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/observatory-sites/tamms-observatory/01-tamms-observatory.html /Lars
  18. I have now used my compact equipment for two seasons. It's based on the HEQ5 mount and a lot of 3D-printed brackets, gears, feet, lids. With the knowledge I collected I now update most of the brackets with the goal to have it more stiff. I'm very satisfied with my equipment. The widefield telescope, or astrograph I should say maybe, is a Pentax 645 300 mm ED f/4 medium format lens, a Canon EOS 6D fullframe camera. This is the last modifications: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-heq5/19-heq5.html Total weight 24 kg included the battery, for the first time I can now put all these stuff in my car (very small car) and drive to dark places. What boring life had been without the 3D-printer. /Lars
  19. Hi, It was long time ago, only remember the seeing looks terrible. The observatory photos I took with my Canon 6D and a Tokina 24-75mm f/2.8, it has stabilization and I didn't use tripod or flash. Nowadays when I travel I leave that heavy camera at home. Only use my smartphone for filming and photo. Daytime the photos is okay. /Lars
  20. Hi, I looked through the smaller of the twin refrators at Stockhom Observatory. It's a 50 cm or 20" refractor. We looked at Jupiter, about 25 years ago. The telescope was very easy to move, but when it starts to move the inertia make it continue move. We didn't use the motor drive for this observation. But it was also a very tiny motor. On the Uppsala old observatory it was a mechanical motor. http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/observatory-sites/saltsjobaden-observatory/02b-stockholms-observatory.html I have two more observatories in line for a report, both in Sweden and they are more modern. /Lars
  21. Hi, I added more old photos from Uppsala old Observatory. I got mote information also that I have added: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/observatory-sites/uppsala-old-observatory/01-uppsala-old-observatory.html /Lars
  22. Hi Mark, I don't think so, the old observatories in Stockholm has a more tradional shape of the dome. It looks like it is two roofs, the inner roof maybe to prevent condensed water drop down on the instrument, just a guess from me. /Lars
  23. From my friend Christoffer I got photos from the interior of the Uppsala old Observary. Enjoy the photos of these old fantastic instruments ! http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/observatory-sites/uppsala-old-observatory/01-uppsala-old-observatory.html /Lars
  24. Thanks Mike, I hope you can visit some of the obeservatories in the future. Lars
  25. The last observatory we visited in Croatia was the Rijeka Observatory. It's a 4.5 km walk from city center or it's possible to take the bus 7A to the observatory. They have a Cafe on top of the observatory with a panorama view. Even a planetarium. Here is my report from the observatory: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/observatory-sites/rijeka-observatory-croatia/01-rijeka-observatory-croatia.html Later I will have more photos, it will be sent to me from their archive. I make a notice when they are online. We got a lot of exiting things to see in Croatia ! /Lars
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