alacant

Hi everyone.

I've a mount hub to computer connection with a usb3 female on the mount. i want to connect this to a computer around 3m away. 
A 3m usb3 cable doesn't work.

A 0.5m usb3 cable connected to a 3m usb2 cable works.

Apart from moving the computer closer to the mount -which puts it out of reach of the guy's vnc over wifi- what options do I have for usb3 between mount and computer?

Cheers

4 hours ago, Marian said:

Are they really mandatory

No. On a 600d, they are best avoided.  The bias must still however be removed, otherwise the flat frames will not calibrate correctly.

Please see my previous post regarding offset and use of Siril.

3 hours ago, Marian said:

How many frames

 ~16 should do it.

3 hours ago, Marian said:

Can I use them again

Yes, but only if you change NOTHING in the optical train. This includes stuff which is difficult to control such as dust settling on the camera sensor... 

They only take a few minutes to do so you may as well take them each time anyway to save having to deal with surprises further down the process.

HTH 

16 minutes ago, Marian said:

find a video

Hundreds of 'em. Try a search on 'siril astro'

15 minutes ago, Marian said:

a light source

Yes. A drawing tablet or a uniform cloudy sky is fine. Set your camera on Av and adjust the t-shirt/paper until you have an exposure of around 2s.

HTH  

13 hours ago, Marian said:

I don’t own any white shirt.

Any colour is fine. Or card or paper...

11 hours ago, Marian said:

no dark frames

The Digic firmware introduces noise/artefacts which make processing -especially background- difficult. Link to that, the impossibility of producing temperature matched dark-light frames and, well... Just don't. We speak from bitter experience!

11 hours ago, Marian said:

I never tried Siril

Siril download: https://siril.org/download/

Especially this: https://siril.org/tutorials/tuto-manual/

11 hours ago, Marian said:

HTH = another thing that don't know

Hope That Helps

Cheers and HTH

1 hour ago, Marian said:

Canon 600d

ISO 800. Expose for as long as you can before overexposing or stars become distorted. Whichever comes first.

600d, so no dark frames of any type. Instead, calibrate simply by subtracting the offset (2048) from the flat and light frames. Siril makes this part easy.

90% moon, but way over to the east. Take any clear sky you have;)

Cheers and HTH.

12 minutes ago, Marian said:

target to train on

How about m44? One of the last clusters for a while.

Hi

I don't think eqmod under ascom has autohome, so use the handbox to home it before connecting.

Cheers and HTH.

Here is the -hopefully provisional- solution... Yes, I've touched the water supply elsewhere in the property, y nada.

No LOL please!

9 hours ago, Marian said:

10 dark frames.

Good only if you're using a camera designed for astro-photography, flat frames are however recommended obligatory either way; they'll correct the dark spots and vignetting.

Cheers

12 minutes ago, AstroAndy said:

no vivo en España

¡Que lástima! Es que en móviles en este foro, no se ve dónde se vive la gente.
On this forum on 'phones, you can't see where folk live.

On 13/11/2022 at 11:17, AstroAndy said:

there is a 4th bolt (which you can't get to w/ the block attached

Hi

Just in case anyone else is adjusting,  I wonder if that should perhaps read, '... which you can't get to w/ the motor attached'?

4 hours ago, AstroAndy said:

it has been sitting for the last 4 months

Oh dear. really? You mentioned a broken bolt (?). Maybe some parts are on order? Dunno. The backlash adjustment only takes around 20 minutes or so.
If you don't want/have the time/etc to adjust/fix yourself, this guy es perfectionista.

Cheers

Hi everyone

I wonder if this example (from the latest batch of eq8-r version 3) holds the record for out-of-the-box backlash?
One is out of the box, the other after adjustment.

I'll let the graphics speak for themselves!

2 hours ago, Sarek said:

bad news

Hi

If it's working for you, stay with it.

The Digic circuitry introduces artefacts which makes it more difficult to process, especially the background. Link that with the impossibility of producing temperature matched darks to introduce yet more noise and well...

If all that's needed is to lose the offset, then yeah... I'm all for keeping it simple.

Cheers and HTH.

14 hours ago, Louis D said:

Green X1 filter just with higher transmission

Ah, OK. That may explain why when looking at star fields in particular, the Bessel makes the others -apart from perhaps the yellow 8- seem dull by comparison.

Also, based purely on words overheard at the eyepìece, the susceptibility to being sensitive to purple fringing seems to be age dependent. Older observers may well benefit financially, filter-wise!

Cheers
 

On 20/11/2021 at 14:05, Ian McCallum said:

Wratten 11 or 102 might be good to reduce the purple fringing

Hi

We hardly ever look through telescopes but reserve that right once a year or so to point our violet fringe special -an  ES ar152 f5- toward Sagittarius. We find that if you use a series of filters, one after another, you'll notice any colour they impart. Stick to one (a #8 is good) and after a while, you don't notice.
The purest stars we've seen is with a Bessel V.

Cheers and HTH

On 20/11/2021 at 14:05, Ian McCallum said:

 

.

9 hours ago, rickwayne said:

Flat darks

Any type of dark frame on an eos is bad news.

9 hours ago, rickwayne said:

I'd show you what "awful" picture of a galaxy looks like

I'd be delighted to help you out with more contributions if necessary.

35 minutes ago, Ratlet said:

manually set the bias

Sorry, yes. I should have explained: 

21 hours ago, wesdon1 said:

easy to follow routine for getting background night sky

Hi

Nice shot. The galaxies are clearly visible.

The 500d doesn't respond well to either dark or in-camera bias frames, the latter being essential to calibrate the flat frames correctly. 

So... lose the dark and camera bias altogether. Instead, simply subtract the offset. On older Rebels, this is 1024 [1]. You may want to have a look at Siril to do the calibration, the stacking and the processing afterwards.

Oh, and just keep adding frames. The more you add, the easier it will be to process.

Cheers and HTH

[1] A long time since we've seen a T1i  so not sure if the 15mp sensor was at the changeover to an offset of 2048. It's just a few moments to try the other value if the first doesn't work.

The OP has chosen to use the ASI driver.. PHD2 is however not limited to that as it is also happy to use INDI or ASCOM camera drivers.

We do not know if the OP has the latest version

Cheers

1 hour ago, Marian said:

and again just noise

Correct. 1s exposures in daylight will overexpose. 
Now you're roughly in focus, you'll be able to finely adjust on a star.

If you really want to test PHD2 in daylight, take the camera gain to zero at the shortest exposure time. Even then, you may have to stop down the aperture of the guide telescope. But perhaps best simply to wait for stars to appear as there's not much you can do with PHD2 otherwise [1]

HTH
EDIT:

[1] Whilst you're waiting don't forget to build a dark library.:

As you can see, PHD2 disconnects. I'd guess because some other app has grabbed the camera.

Suggestion: Start again. Make a new profile with only the camera connected and only PHD2 running. Now connect.

Post the logs.

Cheers 

Hi

I just thought that as a RT user you'd already be familiar with the interface. That's all. 

But yes. Absolutely agree. Keep it simple. Go with whatever works for you.

Cheers