alacant

You've just found one of the limitations of using scripts.

Whilst you could alter the script, we find it just as quick to use Siril manually anyway; you're in control, rather than the script.

Cheers 

9 hours ago, b0balagurak said:

Fuji xt1 and am getting some magenta vertical bands

Hi

It's the Fuji bayer. Siril has an option for fixing it:

On 21/09/2023 at 11:21, carastro said:

l also don’t like starless images

Hi

Not only starless but also those images where the most of stars have been processed to death. Thank you for giving us the choice.

I think the trend toward over processing started with Topaz, (edit: for reference, around the same time as beginning sentences with 'So' became fashionable). AI is now seemingly compulsory on all images. I've seen many excellent shots ruined by AI reprocessing. It's the stars which seem to get falsified the most.

Thanks for keeping the stars alive!
Cheers 

4 hours ago, wesdon1 said:

hot filter removal

Therefore keep it simple. The filter you need is retained. Only the IR mirror/reflector has been removed.

Depending upon the type, in a light polluted sky, the L-pro does a good job of passing what you want whilst eliminating the rubbish. It will help you expose for longer; which is what you need to get those elusive spiral arms.

On one occasion, imaging only 5km or so from Alicante, it allowed us to double the exposure time of our non-filtered frames.

Siril? We put together a simple processing guide for EOS/Ti models:

https://linuxcb.blogspot.com/2023/09/siril-dslr-processing.html

Cheers and HTH

Love the starry version. They give it life and context. 
Cheers

46 minutes ago, Ratlet said:

you need to get in focus and then back out slightly

Exactly. The mask will get you only as far as the red halo. 

49 minutes ago, Ratlet said:

130PDS without a coma corrector

It doesn't get much more apochromatic than that. Excellent idea.

15 hours ago, vlaiv said:

Here is an example.

Surely we can't possibly comment until we've seen the now customary starless version!

2 hours ago, Ratlet said:

Fluffed my focus

Even so, excellent images.

Don't forget that the four element Takumars focus only the green and blue to the same point, leaving red as an unfocused halo. The best method for focusing is by zooming in on a mid brightness white star. Focus to infinitty or where you see the sharpest image, then move away from a tiny amount until the red halo just disappears; a compromise, but one which will give pinpoint true-colour stars.

The crescent: Close. Maybe even a little too much:

The veil: perhaps needs a little more 'compromise'.

Cheers and HTH.

Do you have an m42 thread/adapter/spacer anywhere in the imaging train?

3 hours ago, Bluesboystig said:

I don’t do anything for darks at all?

You don't use dark frames. 

BTW: you may want to check the offset value. Later eos models use 2048 but we have seen a few rogue sensors, IIRC, lower end 24mp versions.

Take a single cr2 frame in total darkness with a shutter of 1/4000s or shorter. Now in Siril, convert to fits and load.

Right click on the image > Statistics

We don't have any 24mp eos' ATM but here is a frame taken as described from a 1200d. the offset-bias value is then self explanatory:

1 hour ago, Bluesboystig said:

darks are stacked in a master

Keep it simple.

2000d so don't use dark or in camera bias frames. This is almost certainly why you're seeing extra noise.
Simply remove the offset from the flat frames then stack them. Leave the same offset in place to calibrate the light frames. For the latter, don't forget to specify the master flat frame you just stacked.

Here's what it looks like for the flat frames:

... and the light frames:

1 hour ago, Bluesboystig said:

noise

What calibration frames are you using?

On Eos it's possible that noise is being introduced by applying bias and dark frames taken using the camera. 

We find that offset subtraction only gives much cleaner calibration. Simpler too.

Cheers 

7 hours ago, Bluesboystig said:

don't think it completely kills data.

Indeed. However all a filter can do is remove signal, never create it. Do without or isolate the emission with say, a UHC. No need to spend a fortune blocking even more light;)

You can see here that there's quite a bit more to be had from the data you already have. 

HTH

5 hours ago, Bluesboystig said:

was then reading Siril processing tutorial

Hi

When beginning, I strongly advise processing manually with Siril. Things then become far less of a mystery and by the time you have copied the files to where the script expects them, could be most of the way through the process anyway.

Go to the scripts when you've mastered the basics. You'll almost certainly -especially with a dSLR- stick with manual anyway; you control the outcome, not the script.

Cheers

On 17/09/2023 at 00:31, LindV said:

usable for calibration

Hi

It looks unusual, but we can't tell for certain because we don't have a light frame against which to divide, nor do we know the offset etc...

If you're looking for a more definitive answer, maybe post -links to- originals of all the frames you intend to use for calibration.

Cheers 

16 hours ago, labtech1122 said:

started using siril

Siril makes it easy.

Pre process each exposure set, copy (or use the conversion tab) the pp files to a new working folder.

Register

Stack

That's it.

Cheers and HTH.

5 minutes ago, Bluesboystig said:

google

Everything you need is here:

https://siril.readthedocs.io/en/latest/

12 hours ago, Bluesboystig said:

no bias frames either

No. Just enter the bias value. Instead of a bias filename, simply enter the offset:

=2048

It's quicker to load the flat sequence, enter the offset value,  pre-process and stack.

Use the flat you just stacked to calibrate the light frames with the same offset; this time register before stacking.

That's it.

To begin with Siril, especially as there's so little to do for DSLR images anyway, I'd recommend doing everything manually. An understanding of what's happening and why is important for troubleshooting when the scripts don't work, and (I find it) quicker anyway... By the time you've moved stuff to where the script expects it to be etc. etc...

HTH

On 15/09/2023 at 12:43, Bluesboystig said:

calibrate manually on Siril

Hi

Good idea. 2000d? So you need only take flat frames in camera. Subtract the offset  manually on the calibration tab. 

Both In-camera bias and dark frames on modern eos' serve only to introduce extra artefacts, especially but not limited to noise, so making processing more difficult than necessary. 

Of course, try both ways to see which you prefer..But hey, the image is good as it is.

Cheers and HTH

42 minutes ago, michael8554 said:

 [...] stiction that might have a bearing

Love it 😀

On 13/09/2023 at 15:09, matt_baker said:

spikes I'm getting in RA

Hi

Remove the polarscope and cover plate and loosen the cone bearing at the base of RA, rotating the circular nut anticlockwise around, say, 1/10 of a turn at a time, until the axis swings freely. There are three grub screws which bear against the thread to lock it (yeah, I know). In between loosenings, give the ra shaft a gentle tap upwards and swing again before retightening.

HTH

30 minutes ago, gcooksley said:

Am I out of focus

Yes.

Hi everyone

One of those rare occasions of skies good enough to hold up 1000mm without having to bin or process it to death.

Thanks for looking and do retain those long telescopes at the ready. One never knows...

 gso203 ~4h 

Hi everyone

Non numeric names usually mean nice bright objects doable with small telescopes in an hour or so. Not true this lot. kstars' -excellent- HIPS planetarium gives ngcs 7320 and 7331 which respectively wikipedia out (new phrasal verb?) to Stephan's Quintet and Deer Lick. I thnk that to get anywhere near in a reasonable time is gonna need better than four hours and a bottom of the range reflector.

Anyway, here is what I managed. You can just about make out structure in the cute quintet.

Thanks for looking but not recommended🥱

r10+gso203, siril git 1.3.0a, st 1.9.855b, ~4h