alacant

4 hours ago, Marian said:

do I always have to run ASi studio if I want PHD2 to run the camera

No. Never run ASIstudio at the same time as PHD2.

On 13/03/2023 at 06:45, MessierMatt said:

use RT rather GIMP

Hi

If you like the feel and the non-destructive approach of RT, you'll almost certainly like the mask-rather-than-layer approach of DT. 

Cheers

On 18/03/2023 at 14:53, tim r said:

any other type of software

Hi

Nice shot and excellent detail. There's the 294 glow artefact which is easy to eliminate using temperature matched dark frames. You could probably still do this with the existing light frames. Oh, and a small nudge to the telecope and you'd have captured m82 as well.

I use StarTools. It has tracking which is held in a database. The big advantage of this is that the next process knows exactly what's happened previously and acts accordingly. You can go back and redo whatever you messed up first time at any stage of the process and Its modern SVDecon and star handling modules obviate the need for extra plug-ins. Its fast and uses the GPU to offload the heavy lifting processes.

5 minutes taking mostly default values. Sorry, I'm hopeless on colour!

Cheers and HTH

On 15/03/2023 at 17:34, ninjageezer said:

SW 200pds at its native FL

Hi

Assuming you have an adequate mount and seeing to support 1000mm, here is our list of modifications needed to bring a low end f5 to astrograph standard. None are particularly difficult or expensive and will save you hours of frustration down the line.

On 15/03/2023 at 17:34, ninjageezer said:

best coma corrector for this scope

The original 4 element gpu such as this one where you set the backfocus depending upon FL is by far the best of the affordable ones we tried. 

Cheers and HTH

13 hours ago, CraigD1986 said:

mottled, ugly background

Hi

The stack of the frames looks fine, there is nice detail in the wizard and the star field is spectacular, giving structure and interest to the shot.

Not a fan of PI, especially with the latest add-ons. It's easy to make it look over processed. 
Hardware wise, I think the focuser may need aligning with the optical axis of the lens. most 72s we've seen need this and is easy to do with a laser stuffed in the focuser.

My advice would be to keep it simple e.g. this is 5 minutes in StarTools. Even then i think I've overdone it!

Cheers and HTH

3 hours ago, M40 said:

heq5

Thanks. Yeah. I believe Heq5s are ok because they have the power socket mounted in a rubber  block. The eq6 in question has its socket mounted in a block resembling anodised aluminium which has zero resistance. The eq8 gives directly to the metal of the mount.

15 minutes ago, M40 said:

stick a long screwdriver in the ground

Hi and thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, this site is on a roof terrace.
 

2 hours ago, EarthLife said:

it's due to leakage

Why do I only get it with SW mounts though?

Cheers and thanks again everyone.

1 hour ago, powerlord said:

he buzz is caused by the 12v plug negative contacting the metal of a mount.

Ah, OK. Of course. I think you've nailed it. The Bresser 12v socket is surrounded by plastic. Even if the cable does pull on the plug, the negative touches plastic.

On the eq(x) mounts it seems that even though the socket is set in rubber, even a slight pull on the plug and the negative touches the surrounding metal.

5 hours ago, bosun21 said:

This can’t be

The guy was fitting a torno (lathe I think) and was attempting to explain why you can't just plug it into the wall. Translation to technical English is not my forte.

Anyway, FWIW, apparently this is what we have at this site:

A few tests with the mounts we have tonight.

Cheepo PSU 12v 5a gives tingles with both SW eq8 and eq6 but not with Bresser exos2. Same mains plugs, leads and sockets. The eq8 motor plug alone is fine using a similar 12v 5a (yes, we swapped them around too) It's only when the hub is plugged in do we get the buzz.

Does that help us?

Cheers 

Edit: we're in Spain. We have two lives @ around 110v each. No neutral.

5 hours ago, powerlord said:

Just add an earth path from the negative

Thanks

Would this prevent the tingle? If so, how would I do that? The DC end has has a standard 5.5 X 2.1 plug.

TIA

1 hour ago, powerlord said:

Just add an earth path from the negative

Thanks

Would this prevent the tingle? If so, how would I do that? The DC end has has a standard 5.5 X 2.1 plug.

TIA

Thanks everyone.
As the tingle is always there, I think I can rule out static. So, coming back to the car-battery-or-linear-psu advice, can anyone recommend a substitute for a cheap 12v 5A model?
@Anthonyexmouth thanks for the specific psu (exactly what I need) but I think the link points to a switching model of 13.8v.

So, anyone any recommendations for a 12v 5A linear psu?

TIA

Hi everyone

Well, not exactly a shock, more a surprise 'tingle' when touching the metal part of the mount/telescope/focuser/camera. Happens with most mounts.
I have tried two cheap 12v 5A switch power supplies, one with a three pin and the other with a two pin mains lead.with the same result. 

I'm told I need either a car battery or a linear power supply to lose the leak. I don't want the former so, having a look around, I found this:

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004349595403.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.113.6844356e6DaLnO&algo_pvid=ce93851a-1906-4092-85b6-be4e2e6d8410&algo_exp_id=ce93851a-1906-4092-85b6-be4e2e6d8410-56&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000028856749257"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!EUR!102.1!66.37!!!!!%402100bc5c16787906922808092d0737!12000028856749257!sea!ES!168948195&curPageLogUid=YICs6qqBuMUx

Would that be any good? Alternatives you have tested personally?

I've no idea about electrics so any help or guidance anyone could give would be most gratefully received.

TIA

On 24/01/2023 at 15:08, Lee_P said:

stars look good, but some along the left side in particular seem a bit stretched

Hi

My guess is that with a bin2 stack of those, you'd be hard pressed to notice, especially if the session included a flip.
I'd stay stay right where you are.

Cheers

Hi

If it reaches focus like that, then yes. You're done.

If not, pull it out bit by bit until it does. Add more extension tubes if necessary, but forget about the 55mm.

Cheers 

12 hours ago, Marian said:

Does the cam or the PHD2 have to be connected to the internet?

No.

Any change if you cover the guide telescope? Light pollution? Gain set at 48? Is there noise if covered during the day? Try another cable. Does the camera work with other apps? [...]

Cheers 

4 hours ago, cacophonist said:

combine the telescope and the camera

Hi

Use one of these:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ex5aT7x

plus 27mm of m48 extension tubes:

18mm back focus + 10mm adapter + 27mm gives you the magic 55mm needed for the flattener.

A 12mm and a 15mm pair from the same supplier will get you there. But...

Even better, get a set of tubes so you can vary the distance. Take 55mm as a starting point only.

Cheers and HTH

8 hours ago, Marian said:

SBIG method

Sorry. I think that term is local to here. I should not have used it.

SBIG is the company which introduced on camera guiding many years ago. That is the same (non ASCOM) method I recommend to begin with and which is explained above.

My recommendation stands. Forget ASCOM for now. All you need running on your computer is PHD2.

Cheers 

4 hours ago, Marian said:

supposed to work with ASCOM

ASCOM alone will do nothing. You also need the EXOS2-goto driver, the latest version of which is available here. 
Probably best to stick to your plan A, keep it simple and get the SBIG method working first. Many I know still use this method to guide.

Cheers and here's hoping the clouds will part soon.

1 hour ago, Marian said:

I still need the handset,

For the method I gave, yes.
There is a second method where you can control the mount using a planetarium program. Maybe get this method going first before throwing more software at it?

1 hour ago, Marian said:

will the PHD2 guide, drive my mount?

Yes.

10 hours ago, Marian said:

the mount didn't move

PHD2 is software for guiding. You'll not be able to see the mount moving whilst using its NSEW commands, but will be able to detect movement of a starfield whilst so doing. You may also be able to hear a faint buzz from the motors too.

To move the mount, use your handset.

Can't see where you are but sorry about the cloud. However it's only to be expected after you buy a new camera!

Cheers

2 hours ago, Marian said:

No idea how to  control it via my laptop.

Ah, so you now have it connected? All that's left is to read the phd2 manual. If not...

The simplest way is to connect the camera via usb to your computer as you have already. 

Now, connect the camera to the mount using the other cable -the one which is  isn't usb- which was also supplied with the camera.

Next, with both camera and mount connected:

- Open PHD2 and create a new profile using the wizard.

- Enter your guide telescope focal length

- Choose 'on camera' for the mount selection. 

- Focus the 120 on a star and...

That's it.

Be sure to read the phd2 documentation which is a available in the 'Help' menu -and can be downloaded as pdf- and/or go along to an astro club meeting. Guiding is far easier the first time if someone is there to help and will save you hours of frustration.

Cheers and HTH

1 hour ago, Marian said:

do I have to do this?

Hi

The short answer is, no.

Further than that, we'd have to guess; we don't know what is connected to what, which cables are in use nor -apart from así- which software is installed.

Cheers