Rodd
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Everything posted by Rodd
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Visual and imaging setups are very different. I never change from one to the other because one may need a 2" extension and the other does not--it changes everything--balance, then alignment. That is what is so annoying with the C11EDge--the FOV is so small that sometimes to find a planet or focus star I have to use an eyepiece and hunt--what a pain. If I switch to a eyepiece holder, all the connections change. I forgot to say I am using a .7x reducer with the TOA 130. Rodd
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The lodestar can't go inward--in fact the lodestar cant move at all--it sits in its receptacle and is held with a locking screw. The receptacle sits atop the prism arm. The prism arm can only be adjusted a few mm in or out. No position seem to do much.
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OK--I have tried a spacer between the OAG and filter wheel--the OAG came with 2--neither helps. I have tried this setup with the telescope focuser all the way in and all the way out (and points between)--there appears no change in the subs generated by the Lodestar. If I move the loadster away from the OAG (out--like if I put a nose piece on) it gets worse. It has to move closer not farther. I have spoken with OPT (a major telescope/camera store in the US--considered among the best). They calculate backfocuses and such--they are aware of all my setups because I put together my rigs with their help. Before I star buying spacers and extension tubes, there has to be way to know what, exactly, I need. The scope, camera, OAG and guider are all commonly used. There are no custom or homemade parts, or odd configurations. Rodd
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I can't. That's the problem....no one, including the technicians at OPT can help.
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I just got the lodestar to use with the 1600 and OAG. I think the OAG is terrible design--there is no way to focus the lodestar except with the mainscope. The lodestar trns on, connects to maxim and snaps subs--doesn't seem like there is much to check--it works. But it doesn't at the same time.
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I tried that--I cranked the focuser for the scope all the way in and all the way out and the lodestar did not change very much. I know the prism was in the light cone because I moved it out until it wasn't and the image changed dramatically--got all snowy. Before there was a white blob in middle.
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The 1600 focuses perfectly. I was told to focus the 1600 first then the lodestar. But there is no way to focus the lodestar. The prism arm is only about an inch ong an it needs to stick into the Lodestar receptacle at least 1/4 inch and then into the OAG. Moving the prism in and out does not effect focus. Nothing I do effects focus. I moved the telescope focus in a full 4' then out the maximum amount and the image taken by the lodestar does not change. I got the lodestar for this set up--haven't used it before. But it connects and exposes so it should be fine.
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I am using teh ASI 1600 with an OAG and the lodestar 2. The ASI 1600 comes to perfect focus, but the lodestar 2 cannot be focused. There is no way to focus it--moving the prism in or out does nothing for focus--it just positions the prism further into the light cone from a horizontal perspective. I tried a flush mounted connector between the OAG and filter wheel and a 21mm spaced connector--there was no observable difference in the sub taken. The sub taken with Lodestar 2 looks like a white circle that fills most of the FOV--but its not round--its looks like its chopped in half. It looks like this for any position of the prism that penetrates the light cone. Not sure what to do--vendor is stumped, not many answers at Starlight Xpress. Its a common set up but no one seems to know much about it. Dead in water until its solved. Any Ideas? Rodd
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Bravo! Looks good to me. Hardly notice the star trails (just a little). In an image like this its the wider picture that is being depicted, so one tends not to inspect too closely the stars. What exposure lengths did you use? If you reduce them and collect more, the star trails will be less and the core will not be a bright. The C8 will zoom way in on this target--even with a full frame camera. You will have to learn art of mosaics! The Edge system is great though for smaller DSO (galaxies) or parts of nebula--I have the 11". Then again you could always do hyperstar and then you WILL get this sized FOV (a bit smaller actually) Rodd
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Some galaxies and a planetary in Coma Berenices.
Rodd replied to ollypenrice's topic in Imaging - Deep Sky
Awesome. I see you have no problem processing for full image zoomed viewing. That is my goal. I think that the fits header documents the temp that you set--not the actual temp. Otherwise, it would mean that the software that writes the FITs header has the ability to "take the temperature", and I don't think think it does. Rodd -
Paddy,
I wanted to get back to you on your comment--I don't want the thread to turn into a huge conversation. On thing I would like to point out (other than you are one of the flag bearers as it were--one from whom comments are considered like Easter eggs), is that the whole reason why I started rapid fire posting was due to a lack of response. I would post an image that I thought was.........good for me....and I would receive 0 comments. I would think "is this image THAT bad?" then i would try and fix it thinking that was the reason for no comments--this led to the cascade of postings that you mention. I was under the impression that the number of comments and image quality were inexorably entwined. They are (they must be) in some unfathomable way. But I think its individual specific. Not to get personal, and only used as an example, if you and I posted the identical image--you would get far more comments (substitute you for a number of others if you prefer). I do have a number of posts on page 1 (or maybe page 2 by now probably) that received no comments and I only posted 1 or 2 images--taking your advice to heart (I do listen....and I remember.....like an elephant). As an aside, Part of the reason for the......less than fervid response.... I think is I use PI and most people us PS (I feel the ice cracking as I speak). To sum up--I have tried the post 1 image, wait, listen and consider method. I even posted the image with a specific question. I always thought that the ensuing silence was due to the image being balderdash and the question inane.
Anyway--I am a different imager now I suppose. Up until recently I NEEDED someone who knew what they were doing to give me accolades or criticism, for I was without boat, paddle, life preserver, and I knew not how to swim. Back then, a "good job" was far more valuable to me than helpful criticism because I did not understand the criticism (part of that is due to the PI/PS issue I know now). So, I need to take a break from posting to recalibrate. I have always appreciated your comments. You are a great imager. I will post again--when I have a worthy image. I also will get a full Astrobin account. Quite frankly, THAT posting place is more suitable to the "like" button as far as I am concerned. few comments are given, but likes add up quickly for good images. SGL has always been more personal as far as I am concerned, and comments are valued more.
Thanks for commenting Paddy--keep up the great work.
Rodd
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The dumb bell and ring are actually very nice! Slight star elongation in the ring. But you are well on your way. Keep at it. The more you do, the better you get.
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Starting off on the right foot. I have 2 left shoes it seems
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This is my first DSO that I imaged, stacked and integrated into a color image. This was in November of 2015. I had not yet learned to shoot flats, so the subs were not calibrated at all. Orion will soon be in position again, and I am anxious to ride the horse once more. I used a Televue np101is and the SBIG STT-8300. I had just switched from the Ioptron IEQ45 to the AP Mach 1--I could not get the Ioptron to work. It's a change I am glad I made. If I remember correctly, this image was made with 10 minute subs, though I forget how many. 2 versions of teh same image.
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The stippling in M! photo is due to deconvolution artifacts--my processing at work.
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Data acquisition is not my problem--20 min subs with the Celestron come out fine if I balance everything right and get good focus (and I don't overexpose the light pollution)--Its processing that is my bugboo. Take a look at the attached pics taken with the C11 Edge HD. First is of M1 in narrowband, second is M-33 in RGB (only 5 minute subs (2 for each filter) due to time constraints.
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Great images. How much processing do you do? I just started too, and I have the very best equipment and my pics are terrible compared to this. I use Nebulosity and PixInsight. My system (scope, mount, and camera) costs over $20,000 and it can't hold a candle to yours. Well done.
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Hello all, My name is Rodd and I am a "newbie". Check out this pic of M1 in the Hubble Pallet (SII, Ha, OIII). Total exposure 4Hrs with a Celestron 11" edge HD--12 x 15min and 3x20min for all 3 filters. I'm trying to get my Astrophysics Mach1 to track better with the Celestron. The stars in this photo are not too bad--though I think they could be better. Any helpful advise. P.S. I had to compress this file at JPG 50 in order for it to be uploaded. Not sure what this will do to the image Clear Skis!!!
