Rodd

Only 1 hour of 60 sec subs..well framed, guided and processed. I'd say you are off to a great start! Rodd

Actually, I read somewhere in the literature for MD, or a tutorial, can't remember where that cropping is fine, but nothing else. The idea is you can't change the pixels, can't modify them from the raw state. cropping just removes pixels--it does not alter the pixels that remain. In fact, Mure Denoise has no way of knowing if you cropped or not. Rodd

Pretty nice. I went through similar frustrations with my first mount-the Ioptron eiq45. It was polar alignment that did cause me to return it. I did not have a pole master-that may have allowed me to keep it. Polar alignment from ones knees (or lower) with a straight through pa scope is just not desirable. I am glad you over cane that difficulty. Rodd

Not only the dynamic range issue, but betting the target in the FOV at all! Without goto and computers, shooting a nebula or galaxy was a shot in the dark. So you have issues with framing, dynamic range, and a huge issue with focus--no focus mode to check focus. That's why many astrophotographers had their own dark rooms--so they could run up to the house and within 20 min or so know if they had the target framed, or if they were in focus. Using a 24 hour development service is almost undoable. And when I was first interested in this (1972), I thought all I needed was an adapter to connect the camera with the scope! How wrong was I? I did not dip my toe until the modern day, which makes me appreciate the troubles I COULD of had. The ones I DO have are bad enough! Rodd

This looks great. My first DSO couldn't hold a candle to this one! Rodd

Drop the black point a bit 23/23/23 in PS and the galaxy will pop--you can do this simultaneously with stretching. Longer exposures will bring out the spiral arms but may blow the core, depending on your system. Rodd

Quite a difference--though to be fair to your old self--RGB is tough to compare to Ha! Rodd

That's what I thought

All because SBIG won't change out y filter wheel, which I have been complaining about since I got the camera. And I just realized the MMOAG is over $1,000.

I am thinking of an Astrodon MMAOG--or a good guidescope. I might only use the ASI 1600 on my refractors and leave the STT-8300 for the C!!Edge

I am returning the OAG. I cant take this any more. Thanks for the help....I am out of steam Rodd

Yes--the prism is fixed to the pedestal, and there are only 2 ways to insert it--flat face toward scope or flat face toward imaging camera. Mine is set flat face toward scope.

Well its a flat face toward the scope--but the lodestar sits atop the prism pedestal--its a hole

Prism is fitted flat face toward the scope, weird angle face toward the camera.

That would explain allot--but others use it with the Lodestar. I have the capitol of gremlinville at my home, so I am not surprised that it doesn't work.

This setup as is was designed by the supplier--there are a few connection parts that were hard to get--1 was custom made. I can't just change them. My OAG can't be much closer to the reducer--right now its about 1/4 inch or so (don't know the actual distance to report in mm). It can't be much less as there is not 1 part that will work. The Prism arm can't be any shorter or it won't penetrate the light cone.

I haven't looked through an eyepiece in years--never with the TOA--I will have to look at the chart to see what goes where. I think I have the necessary parts. Daytime seems more practical--but not sure the Lodestar can take short enough exposures--it could not yesterday--unless focus was so bad it just appeared that way--maybe in focus the light wouldn't be so bad.

OK--I understand. Even though this has been said I did not get the 2 distances has to be the same. This means I need a spacer between the OAG and reducer--which the vendor specifically said I did not. I have fired the vendor. I tried a spacer between the OAG and filter wheel--but that just pushes the 1600 further back--which, now that I think of it--should have the same effect. I tried moving the focuser all the way in and out--there was no change to the lodestar subs. I find daytime to be difficult as there is so much light--only a very, very short exposure through an Ha filter results in an image that is not washed out. The Lodestar cant take a .001 sec exposure like the 1600 can. Maybe the Lodestar is not working right. I will try what you say today. Thanks. Rodd

Sorry Alex--That link does not seem to be working

There is a photo a couple of pages back. Rodd

Thanks Alex--I will look into that today. Rodd

Well--I am signing off now--it does not work. I can't even get full illumination out of the Lodestar--Its dark and the images still look like white off center half circles. Same as before. So I am done. Supplier has not responded to emails or calls (all weekend). I will return the OAG and go with a guide scope. I really wanted better guiding though. Oh well. I am thinking of the Sky watcher EVO guide. Any Good? Thanks for everyone's help--the response was simply amazing. I hope I can one day return the favor. Rodd

I think the filter wheel is pretty standard--but thanks for you help. Maybe I'll get lucky in about a hour and it will be in focus. Rodd

There is no way to get the prism parallel to the sensor like that--the 3 wings of the connector that the lock screws tighten against are situated so that the prism pedestal must come in at an angle. I am beginning to hate threaded connections--its all the way or nothing--no room for positioning. As a result--my prism is at an angle--not right on a corner--but not like yours either

No one to borrow things from. The prism arm is pretty stable--tight.