Rodd

No one to borrow things from. The prism arm is pretty stable--tight.

But its not--Folks use the ASI 1600, ZWO OAG, and Lodestar. From my understanding its a common setup. Its not like I designed this myself.

I do not doubt you. I hope I am as fortunate as you Rodd

Maxim... The exposure is set to .001 sec--the lodestar can't do that short. Its a bright sunny day--the main image was taken at .001 sec through an Ha filter. The lodestar has no filters

It shows white where too much light is on it. That's what I was talking about with focus--no way to determine--its just flooded with light. The prism is only partially in the light cone--you can see the line--but there is enough light to wash that area too--just not as badly. I think the prism needs to be longer, as that is one way to (the only way) to focus the lodestar--bringing the end of the prism stalk closer or farther from the lodestar sensor. But it can't go any closer because then there won't be enough stalk to stick into the light cone.

OK--lots to report. Here is what I did: 1) I pointed the scope at some distant trees. I am fortunate to be using a camera that can take .001 sec exposures with an Ha filter, as it is a very sunny day. See image 1 to verify main focus (not perfect but OK). 2) I tried the lodestar without a spacer between the OAG and filter wheel, with a 16.5mm spacer, with a 21 mm spacer--and with the 16.5 AND the 21 (I was wrong--they can be coupled together as the wing nut portion threads off). 3) One problem is the Lodestar can't take short enough exposures. Hence, there is no way to verify focus. However, based upon what I did see, the best is without a spacer and the prism out as far as it will go into the Lodestar housing. See image 2. You can see that the prism is not really in the light path far enough--the prism arm needs to be longer. When I tried with the 21mm and 16.5mm spacer together, I could not achieve focus with the ASI 1600--not enough inward travel. The only way I could get the Loadstar to display anything but pure white, or a view that resulted from the prism not penetrating the light cone--was with no spacer as in image 2. I have no way to know if its in focus or not--the signal is too high due to sunlight. I tried making a pin hole (taped up my B-Mask except for a small opening in middle. It did not make any difference--it may have cut the overall brightness a bit--but image 2 still looked like image 2. Doing it during the day is very tricky. Too much light. Not sure what to do now. ASI 1600 Ha .001 sec focus Best Lodestar image

Thanks Ray--I really appreciate your help. Rodd

Its all ZWO products, so yes...should work!

No--the wing nut part is built in--can't be removed, so they can't be used between the camera and filter wheel. They came with the OAG

I can't use both. the spacers are attached to a 3 pronged wing nut type thing. the 3 wings are what the OAG thumb screws tighten against to hold the OAG in place. The spacers and wing nuts as I call them can only be threaded into the OAG--not each other

To clarify--The distances/spacers were calculated for both scopes, and he knew I was going to try the TOA first, so the calculations are for the TOA with reducer. As far as I know--the ASI 1600 threads directly into the filter wheel and never uses spaced between the camera and filter wheel. between the OAG and filter wheel yes--but I tried that. I think I will go fiddle now in the day time (its a sunny day hear-though cold 0 degrees C (better than -10 I know.

maybe through an eyepiece holder. Don't know Hmmm...when the lodestar was connected to the OAG and the prism was in what I thought was a good position, the image was a white circle (off center and not complete). When the prism was retracted out of the light cone--synonymous with your finger blocking the lens I would think, the image was not dark, but snowy--not fine grained snow--but coarse grained snow.

Don't have one. I have always used the SBIG self guiding filter wheel. I am seriously considering going that route though--but if the Lodestar is faulty, it won't work there either

I will see if I can do it. But first--is there a way to test the lodestar to make sure its working properly? If I hold a piece of paper directly in front of it, will printed words be clear or do I need to have it see through lenses or the reflection of a focused mirror?

Finally...some good news. I assume the only changes you make are to the connections between the "package" and the OTA/reducer Rodd

I have trouble seeing my laptop during the day--very bright. Also, switching from eyepiece to imaging is a terrible thing to have to endure, at least for the TOA 130 and C11Edge--not so much for the Televue. I have not yet used the FSQ 106. I can't try it at this point on any other scope but the TA--first off, that is the connectors I have, secondly, I do not want to switch scopes until I get it to work. I assume you suggest I point the scope at a far off tower or something and see if I can get focus. I do not know what I will need to do to the backfocus to look through an eyepiece at something 500 yards away--Besides.....I only have 2 spacers at my disposal--both came with the OAG...a 16 mm and a 21.5 mm. I have tried them both. I too think there is a detail overlooked, or there is a malfunction in either the Lodestar or the OAG (prism no doubt). The fact that using various spacers and cranking the main focus in and out produce no effect on the image from the lodestar tells me that its not a spacer or focuser issue. Maybe I have it set up wrong. I don't know. Finally, when things are working properly I have learned how to capture pretty well, and my processing is coming along.....but tinkering and fiddling and diagnosing and doing the things that all of you experienced people can do is my weakness (one of many). I am all thumbs when it comes to figuring thins out. In short....I don't really know how to do it!!!

Seems painfully obvious to me as well......Thanks Rodd

One last question--Even though I got the 1600/OAG to use with the FSQ 106 at F3 specifically, I started using the 1600/OAG with the TOA-130 because the scope was up, I am familiar with it and I thought it would be better to not have to learn 2 things at once. The connections will be the same (according to my supplier). But, assuming there is not a defect in any of the elements, will I have to go through something similar when I do switch to the FSQ 106? Or, if I can manage to get it to work, will I be able to transfer it to another scope fairly easily. Rodd

I tried a spacer there. No go. Good idea about looking down the scope though--I'll do that tomorrow. Rodd

No this is with the TOA 130--it has much more focus travel (almost 5"). I agree though, there might be a problem with the OAG or the Lodestar for that matter. Tomorrow during the day I will see if I can get the Lodestar to capture something. It was about 15 degrees F last night and fiddling with this thing without gloves on was not fun.

You guys are amazing. I am seriously grateful for the effort. I wish my supplier, to whom I have given allot of business, would be as helpful as the folks on SGL. I told him to read this thread and recalculate. I won't hear from him until Tuesday though--he's off Monday. Again. many thanks. I am just so upset that I am missing 5 consecutive new Moon skies (2% through 0 to 1% I think). And clear!! Maybe absence does indeed make the heart grow fonder (if you can get past the anger!). I will post the successful answer WHEN it happens (I am an optimist at heart). Ta. Rodd

I tried that--moving the main focuser had little effect on the focus of the lodestar

The ASI 1600 mmcool pro comes to perfect focus about at the mid point of my focus travel. There is no way for me to know if I need more inward focus if I could miraculously bring the Lodestar to focus.

I tried it--had absolutely no effect!

Where is my image? I put the image in a wrong thread? Its no wonder I can't get anything to work! Here's image if anyone else was looking