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joecoyle

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About joecoyle

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    Star Forming

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    South Manchester, UK
  1. Ah perfect thanks. I was looking in the Chart menu - not setup. Joe
  2. Hi I use CdC as my sky map, and for telescope control. For the most part I love it. I have just set up my scope on a pier in my new ROR observatory, so have to drift align etc again. I'm using PHD's drift align tool and it as per, it says choose a star near the celestial equator. Does anyone know how to change the colour of the celestial equator in CdC? I find it very difficult to see as its just the same grey as all the other gridlines. The meridian is white, which is dead obvious. Or do people prefer to use different star maps, etc that they prefer? I've heard the sky x is very good, but its also very expensive. Thanks Joe
  3. Hi I've set my scope up on it's pier in my ROR observatory, done a few drift aligns and started to take some images. I've noticed a 'quite' regular dip in my DEC line on several nights. Would anyone be able to have a quick scan of my log and offer any insight? Could it be backlash? Could it be something with each rotation of the gears? Faulty tooth? It is quite regular, although not always, and always in the same direction. It doesn't seem to be adversely affecting imaging yet, but I've not tried anything too taxing. Thanks Joe PHD2_GuideLog_2018-09-23_200940.txt
  4. Hi This may not be the place for this question, but here goes. I bought a "5V USB Relay Programmable Computer Control For Smart Home" relay from eBay (for the grand total of £2.50), so I do not expect much from it, however I thought I'd ask the question anyway. Some background - I have completed my ROR and am now hoping to use the relay to control the roof of my observatory via ASCOM and SGPro. Currently it uses a garage door opener & remote control. For ASCOM control, I need to be able to assign a virtual COM Port to the relay so that the Max Pilote ROR driver can control it -- according to this SGL post below, it works with a different relay, but its no longer available, so thought It was worth a shot to try with a different one: I have seen a GitHub project for implementing operation of my relay (which does work fine as the device is HID compliant), but this is no good to me as its not ASCOM. For more info, See the wiki here: http://vusb.wikidot.com/project:driver-less-usb-relays-hid-interface I have tried a multitude of drivers to see if I can get one to work as a virtual com port, for example the Eltima Virtual Com Port and the FTDI VCP driver, but I cannot seem to be able to assign a com port to the USB device in device manager. Does anyone know how to force Windows 10 into using a Com Port for a USB (HID) device? Does anyone use a USB relay to control their ROR from SGPro? You can see the option to assign the board a Com port below. Apologies if I went too technical. Thanks for any ideas. Joe
  5. Hi Here is my M27 from 11th August. The first 'official' picture from my new DIY roll off roof observatory (pretty much complete now). It was only a quick image session (about 2 hours) and a very quick process in PixInsight, but overall I'm very impressed with the ED80 and 414EX mounted on my concrete pier. These were a mix of 2 minute and 5 minute subs. It's got a nice amount of detail in the cloud structures. Now to find a cloud / rain sensor thats ASCOM compliant and then I'm pretty much done. But thats for a different topic Joe ps... I promise I'll image something other than M27 one day as well
  6. Yeah my nexstar had a focal length of over a metre, but was tricky to guide. Although it did give a tighter frame. This is kind of a personal journey for me with M51! I started out imaging it with a DSLR and have gradually used it to hone my skills. I'll have to dig out my early images. Even my PNG was too big to upload at nearly 9meg, so I will have to stick with jpegs even if PI warns me that 'its not a true representation of the image' Joe
  7. Hi Thanks to a load of rubbish weather recently, I have only just got outside again. Here is a quickly processed M51 from the weekend - Luminance: 10 x 480 sec // RGB: 6 x 480 sec each It's my first real attempt at some longish exposures (8 minutes) with my 80ED and the Atik. (I always used to get a max of 2 minutes with the Nexstar 6se, so was impressed with 8 mins!) I was worried about my PHD graph at one point, but honestly this scope seems so much easier to guide... It's a very rough process using PI - just to get me back in the swing of things. Comments appreciated. (It's a lossy jpg (couldn't upload the 60MB TIFF!!)) Thanks Joe
  8. Hey Finally the clouds parted for a while, so I thought id give my new setup a try. After being used to getting 2 minute guided subs with my Celestron NexStar 6SE, I was very pleased with the following 5 and 10 minute guided subs with the 80ED. Had to reset all the guiding params to default, so they may need tweaking in future (total RMS was 1.28" which I think is on the way towards good?). One thing I would like to check is in the image below (right hand image is the 10 min), the core of M27 is excessively blown out. Have I exceeded the well depth of the 414EX then? Or is in caused by something else ? The left hand 5 min just had an autostretch applied. What are people's thoughts on star shapes / focus etc... Also in the image below, the histogram of the 10 minute sub looks very odd... its very shallow... and very far right. Any reasons for this? There were intermittent clouds around which may have affected it? Fot a first run, I'm happy... theres obviously a lot to do, but would appreciate comments and thoughts as usual. Cheers Joe
  9. Hi My 80ED arrived and finally got a break in the cloud to try it out. My setup is now 80ED with FR, AVX mount, Atik 414EX and Orion Starshoot autoguider with 50mm guide scope. I plan to build a pier and roll off shed for it but at the moment, it will be living on a tripod. Could somebody please be kind enough to take a look at my first nights guide log and tell me if things look ok? I imagine having to tweak lots of numbers (calibration step size / hysteresis / max ra pulses etc) but im not really sure. Is this just a case of trial and error? Should the numbers have changed from when i was using the NexStar 6SE? I managed a solid 4 minute sub which was crisp and pinpoint. But that could have been luck! The seeing wasnt great, so this was all just initial testing. I intend to try and learn to drift align. As an experiment, at the end of the night, I used the phd drift align tool and according to the trend line, got a polar alignment error of 1px in both Alt and Az, but i dont believe it! Thanks Joe PHD2_GuideLog_2017-07-09_221416.txt
  10. Thanks Andy. Apologies for the late reply. FLO have said that I won't need the click lock apparently so I'll give it a shot without. Otherwise I'll investigate a custom adapter. Joe
  11. This is what i don't understand - its had a permanent stretch applied to it... It's very odd... for reference here is an uncalibrated light frame with a permanent stretch. So you can see the data is good. This is the same frame calibrated with the BPP script: Maybe I'll just calibrate and stack with the BPP script - although i prefer the manual method. Joe
  12. Hiya So I've just returned from a week in France with some marvellous M63 data in tow. Taken with a TEC140 and Atik 460 on a Mesu. All in all very good images. Courtesy of the fantastic Olly Penrice. I thought to myself I'll have a go at processing the Sunflower only to find PI behaving very oddly indeed. I don't know if I'm totally missing something or if I've messed up PI... FWIW I'm following Kayron's tutorial at LightVortexAstronomy for stacking etc... I've got Olly's master calibration frames for the Atik, and when i plug them into ImageCalibration, this is what I get (autostretched light sub)... Whereas, if I run the BatchPreProcessing script set to calibrate only, my images calibrate as expected... I cant understand it - I've used IC and followed the exact same tutorial a hundred times. Any ideas? Thanks Joe
  13. @spaceboy Ok thanks, now comes the hard part... maths! reducer back focus = 56mm Clicklock = 36mm Total back focus to be achieved = 92mm? That seems a lot to me, but maybe... I am never great at calculating these things... Camera = 13mm Filterwheel with m54 - m42 adapter fitted = 23mm M48 to T thread adapter (for the reducer) = 10mm ------ = 46mm ------ so i need to make up another 46mm using extension tubes? (I actually have a baader varilock 46mm already if that will work!) Thanks Joe
  14. Hi I am about to purchase a Skywatcher 80ED and reducer. I've been told that the .85x focal reducer requires 56mm of back focus. I've also been recommended the Baader ClickLock 2inch adapter (by a fellow SGLer) to ensure a more secure fit for the imaging train. If I use the Baader, does this alter the back focus of the reducer? I'm guessing it goes like this: Atik 414EX --- filterwheel fitted with the M54 adapter --- 7.5mm spacer --- Flo M48 to T adapter --- reducer (+ 2.5mm of delrins in between couplings) (56mm up to here) --- ClickLock Thanks Joe
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