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schmeah

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About schmeah

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    Star Forming

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    Morristown, NJ USA
  1. Surprised there are no replies on this one. I use a Celestron 9.25” Edge at F10 and F7 and it handles this easily. I know others that image successfully with an 11” Edge. Derek
  2. I suspect you would be more than happy with Avalon. My M Uno has served me well over nearly five years of ownership. It has been essentially maintenance free ( no gears to remesh or grease ), responds superbly to guiding, and has been reliable in every way. I’ve also not had any major issues with wind, though don’t image typically with winds > 10MPH. Derek
  3. So just for clarification, was your positioning correct from the start? And with the controller you have to rotate the forks 180 degrees in RA to point the scope towards the Southern meridian after polar alignment? If so, that is the complete opposite of the Meade setup, and I greatly apologize for misleading you. Derek
  4. This is a good overview. It is with a Meade, but describes alignment from polar home position which should be similar for all wedge fork SCTs I would think. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zw0_O3tUhLo
  5. Doc’s first homemade mount above looks just like a TTS Panther. Wonder if it performs similarly. The Panther seems like a great mount from the reading I’ve done. Derek
  6. From the position that my OTA is in, if I tilt it straight pack so that it is in line / parallel to the fork arms, then it is pointing at Polaris in the polar home position. But I never used Polaris to polar align with my setup (view was blocked). I always drift aligned. Derek
  7. If you tilted the OPs scope to point at NCP in the current configuration , the top of the OTA / finder scope would still be on top. Nearly every SCT on wedge I’ve ever seen is rotated 180 degrees. With the forks in that position, you may never be able to get close to zenith as the imaging train could collide with the fork base. So the fork arms need to be rotated 180 degrees. Why would it be any different Meade vs Celestron? https://www.telescopesplus.com/products/celestron-9-25-inch-cpc-deluxe-hd-eq-wedge-telescope Derek
  8. Did you loosen the (three?) nuts that secure the base of the wedge to the tripod before rotating the Az wheels? It won’t move if you don’t. The movement is fairly minimal/fine with each crank of the wheel, so it might not be very noticeable at first. Derek
  9. Yikes, that’s backwards! It’s supposed to look like this. I used to have one. It’s a fine piece of kit. Derek
  10. With respect to the M Uno and periodic error, I have well documented the large PE on my M Uno. But to be clear, unless you plan to do unguided imaging it has absolute no effect on the resulting images or FWHMs. I think that Avalon should make it more clear on their websites that these belt driven mounts with multi stage reductions are unique, and while they do indeed have very large periodic error, it is so slow and smooth that it is inconsequential when guiding. I have taken single sub exposures of two hours duration at a focal length of 2350mm with guiding < 0.5" total RMS, with resulting round / tight stars with FWHM < 2". So I think Avalon mounts redefine the concept of periodic error, i.e.: it doesn't matter. And those that criticize the mount because of the PE have probably never used one. They are simplicity defined. No flip, no maintenance, no worries. Derek
  11. The Mesu sounds like a great choice. But with your stated plans regarding scopes, and desire to dual mount a second smaller scope, I would also consider the new dual mounted Avalon M Uno D. http://www.avalon-instruments.com/archive-news/152-new-m-uno-d Good luck with your new setup! Derek
  12. Was it the dec motor reverse? I was always curious why the default shouldn't be the same for everyone in the same hemisphere. Derek
  13. If it points in a completely different direction than expected, go into the advanced panel in StarGo and try checking the "reverse motors dir" boxes one at a time and retrying. I had the same problem on my Uno and have to check the "dec" box. Derek
  14. I image from a Bortle white zone. There really is nothing that you can't image well, but you will need far longer total exposure time ( i.e. Shorter but many more subs) and some special processing skills and plugins to do it right. Every image on my website is from bright skies. http://www.pbase.com/dsantiago/root Derek
  15. I just recently started dithering after many years of imaging, and can say without question that my images are far cleaner than before. I now rarely need to use noise reduction and can even get away without dark frames. I may have gotten lucky with my dither settings, software (APT/PHD) and backlash free mount (M Uno), but my time between dithered sub-exposures is never more tha 10-15 seconds. It was far longer and inconsistent before I switched from SGP to APT for what it's worth. Derek
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