Rush

Dear mates, my recent attempt with Samyang 135mm on Dolphin nebula with Optolong L- extreme filter and a Sony A7 camera. CS Rush Optolo-eXtreme

Well, dithering + Lp filter is more essential than long cooling intervals in my experience. Keep ISO low, for instance 400, exposure time 120 seconds and shoot one or many nights the same object. Try not to use Live view screen. Its quiet true what mate Alacant says. On the other hand if u r really concerned about cooling the camera, use a table FAN and blow on the Camera at a slow rotation naturally. Cheers Rush

This is a new attempt with Samy 135mm fully open and Canon 5D . Processed without cali frames, laziness amazes me. CS Rush

This image of Lagoon & Co is with Sammy 85mm and Sony A7. Lens is quiet heavy for an 85 mm, works fine. Cs Rush

Ah, interesting. my brain pixels too binned now.😜 manually. Humming teach ur children well.

Hi Adam, had this Camera for 6 months, tried the unity gain ( corresponding 120 s) in SGP. Result was extrem Col.noise and stars were kind of overexposed , RGB histogram by far misaligned . In the course of time, turned down the gain to 70 and from 300s to 180s and the C.noise dramaticaly went down . This is purely my expeirence. I cant try this again as I sold off this cam. Was trying to combine the lum from CCD with CMOS OSC. In the end I gave up, lol. Adam , did you use this camera or did u check personaly how the gain values respond ? Curious 2 know, probably my handling was wrong. This was my low gain attempt HLRGB. cheers Rush

Hi, Reduce the gain, start from 60 or 70 instead of 120. Off set leave at default. Frames @180s or below. Use an IR cut filter. Cleaned up ur image without cali frames, Im allergic to cali frames 😩. Hope this helps.

This is an HALRGB version Orion taken with Sammy 135mm and SBIG ST-8300M. Was a windy night , focus shiffting at regular intervals. Star spikes, not thin edged due to vibration i guess. CS Rush

This is what remains after cleaning up. RGB channels R G B CS

👌 K.

Can u upload a stacked image right out of APP or DSS. Not touchiing the saturation silder ? CS

Added 3 hrs of Ha and O3 to the Sony DSLR image fully wide open at F2. My eyes cannot see the occilation nor the incoherence of the light signal. Cant say overall SNR s improved or aggravated the phase distortion by the filters . The colours look different and some of those dust lanes, star colours vanished and Nebula itself became more dense. Baader 7 nm and Baader F/2 High speed O3 filter were used. CS Rush DSLR image N band added.

Southern beauties 🤩 with Sony A7 and Canon 600D Antares region LMC Cats paw and Lobster Running chicken CS Rush

Adding one more Samyang image. ( 3 hrs with a Sony A7) CS Rush

My Mantra is , No califrames, No Califrames, No Califrames. go away amp glow . Dont ask me why , this is humming in my head every time i start processing, may be cos Im lazy. ASI294MC PRO + Takumar 135 mm lens . HA /OXY injected to OSC. No Califrames🤩 Takumar 135 mm lens makes halos around bright stars.Stars r not round my laziness with guiding.(used previous night caliberation ) But was fun fiddling around with this OSC camera. CS Rush

This is a Sony full frame A7 in jpeg, If you want a raw frame i will add. Hope this helps, CS Rush

Thanks Adrian , and happy imaging, Cs Rush

Looks nice , i want to assemble a similar stepper motor focuser , but was unable to find that rubber belt. You have any idea where i can buy one of those. Once i had that filter tray , i replaced with Atik ew 2. Makes the struggle a lot easier Adrian. With ASI 1600 a lot more easier attaching the electric filterwheel. Spacing is almost perfect. cheers Rush

Toy arrangement till the recuurence of dismantel sickness

True , about autofocuser. but you can find a way around. Filterwheel is not a problem , the one i use s quiet heavy still it doesnt tilt in any direction. Two brackets comes with a Vixen style D.tail and the guidescope clamp acts as a reinforcement. Maybe on the reinforcement some modification to attach the A.focuser?

Use a LP filter screwd infront of the lens , works fine. Dithering is a must for DSLR,s. to reduce noise. B 4 u print out bracket/ holder, buy from Phillipe in France. http://www.astrokraken.fr/samyang-135mm-f-2-c30078976, well made , i use it. hope this helps. This will provide you more time for PDS Collimation?135mm f:2 bracket + micro-focuser Par astrokraken le 2 Juillet 2018 à 00:33 This bracket allows to mount your Samyang 135 f:2 telephoto lens on an equatorial mount for astrophotography. A hinged micro-focuser ring has been mounted on the lens, to fine

1000% . Shot with Sony A7 and Samyang , around 15 frames @ 300s iso 800. Cone N, with SBIG ST 8300 M . R & G ,3 frames @ 300s, B 6 frames @ 300s, Ha 12 frames @ 600s. Rosette N , same as above. Cheers

This lens is always a pleasure to use, great performance and handling is uncomplicated. Sometimes i use in combination with Asahi Takumar 135 mm for HaLRGB. Cs Rush

Swear i cant blame the drawtube or the eyepeace holder as Cheshire CT is held by a ring holder (no thumb screws) I wish too u r not right, it was hours when all this began, slowly its turning into days ?

Well , finally the hour of truth has come. i.e the Cheshire CT from TS with CONCENTER tool test. Everything i left untouched from previous tweaking (laser show) And here s the View through Cheshire CT. Through Concenter tool, Wonder if i ever will get those rings aligned with primary to secondary and vice versa cos of the offset ? An an image after the previous laser tweak. The halo around the bright star is gleaming . Primary edges need tuning ? paint it rough black ? Next adventure ? Thanx much CS, Rush 2 hrs L and 1 hr RGB with the prvious laser tweak test. Bright star core light streaks around. Sorry if its dirty crude processed , red gradient kill next time after serious extrem imaging:)