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About Rush

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    Star Forming

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    Ultima Thule, TNO.
  1. Well, DSLR,OSC and Mono, They all make pretty pictures. Its a matter of choice if you have the time and lust to fiddle around with sequencing software and filterwheels etc... On the otherhand ,if you are travelling to a dark sky location and not in a mood to carry the fully loaded main rig . DSLR still a true companion and you will not regret and its still fun. One airline with the name EL CONDOR PASA couldnt find my main luggage & equipments after long distance flight. But in my hand luggage there was a moded Sony and unmoded Canon . Well, that saved me from going mad under a starry starry night sky . Running chicken is a bit pinky Sure , does not outperform a monochrome / lrgb quality and clarity, but its kind of nice to do photography with a DSLR. CS Rush
  2. Hi, little more colours added to sweet Rosetta:) Hope i didnt ruin your image. cheers Rush
  3. Any success ? If not, check the camera is connected properly , increase the gain to 21% if you u r using Ascom QHY Driver. Do not to use qhy 5 cmos camera, its named as CMOS QHY5LII Camera ( previous Ascom ) QHYCCD-Cameras-Guide is in the latest Ascom upadate . Press the Loop button as Higgins wrote aboove, exposure time to 1,0 s. After Looping, select a star manually or auto star selection fromt the dropdown list . Then the PHD (caliberation) button will light up. Click PHD button , Screen will show an yellow cross hair on the selected star. West step progression will appear down on the left bottom side. gd lk Rush
  4. No problem i thank you for ur Interest, CS Rush.
  5. Happy birthday , The day s urs:) so hardly u can make a wrong choice. FOV of 4/3 rd is by far greater than than Alt -? 183 series i guess. Well , if u r comming from DSLR path, 1600 is the right choice. Its worth every cent U invest in a bigger sensor no matter which optics U want to use., apart from planetary stuff. Cheers and a nice bday, Rush
  6. Hi, yes, defintley . Cs Rush Thare are two original tak spacers on the drawtube, before the flattner so that you can adapt CCD or DSLR . This little gem has one of the sharpest optics.
  7. Hello, Im offering a Takahashi FS-60CB tube package Photo / Visual in very good condition. Fs 60 Wide T to T2 adaptor for CCD camera, FS 60 Wide EOS Canon adaption, FS 60 Original Flattner, FS 60 eyepiece connector, 2 ". FS 60 eyepiece connection 1.25 " FS 60 Takahashy clamp, Optical tube 60/355 mm, 1: 5.9. Without viewfinder + holder, Price , 950.00 Euro. Postage charges Insured DHL europe , EXTRA. (maybe around 40 euros) Hope this is of interest, and thanks 4 looking, CS Rush
  8. Flexure issue was prominent when i moved the Guide Scope away from the mount center . G.Scope ,rings and the base plate adds extra weight, tension on top of the main scope ,front heavyness too. Watch the PHD graph and the corner stars in the image . If stars r round you can leave it as it is. I avoid dew heater plugging in the hub where the imaging camera s plugged. Happy testing & success:) Rush
  9. Guidescope more to the mount Center (in case of guiding error) Looks nice,too perfect to be real . If u see my wire jungle you will breakdown and cry Cheers Rush
  10. No worries, We r all here to help. (Man, every time I think I've got everything under control, something else pops up!) Same old story happens at regular intervals. Usb hubs and usb ports start playing game too. Lum looks like this.
  11. Suspect its comming from the Cali Frames. try only with darks and see if its the same. Looks as if those flats too are not matching. Cs Rush
  12. Yes, dont adjust anything in DSS. Grab the 16bit Tiff file and do the rest in Gimp. Split the RGB channels clean it up and recombine them using layers. Mask stars and ROI and increase saturation softly. Red channel you can strech and use as Lum , Dont remeber lighten or Screen mode in layers. Opacity sliders you can use to your personal likes. Im not capable of using Gimp or PS effecient.. Long back tried PS and gave up. Might be someothers around here who can help you . Sorry. Rush
  13. Thank you, was a test shot for 3 hrs. yes always x1 binning. Was never happy with high binning. Kills the resolution IMHO. Try a session with those numbers and see what y ur set up produces. From there you can always try new exposure times and sequences. You need a starting/reference point . Use a good LPS filter if necessary. like IDAS or similar. thats it. gd lk & lot of fun Craig Cs Rush
  14. If the focalratio of SW Ed80 with Flattner/Reducer is around F/6 or F7, RG channels 600s©10frames,Blue may be 50 % more (15 frames) Lum 600s © 20 or 30 frames. If you use fast optics /camera lens, can even get away with less frames. This applicable to most of the Atik cameras in general. Attaching an example of HRGB at F/2, R:3,G:3.B:6 © 300s,Ha:12©600s, total IT 3hrs. Hope this is of somehelp. Cs Rush.
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