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uhb1966

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Posts posted by uhb1966

  1. On 08/06/2020 at 19:33, CloudMagnet said:

    Yep, there is a still a big argument that if you want the absolute best quaility, mono with narrowband filters is the way to go. But for me in the limited clear skies we tend to get, OSC with a dual/tri band pass is too much convenience to ignore. I cant be bothered (to be honest) shooting multiple flats, refocusing etc for each filter.

    I prefer just one filter, press go and come back at the end of then night when its done :)

    Me too! Also sth to think about: the very best filters with bw's of 3 nm cost at least 1000 a pop x3 colors =>3 Grands for the hubble palette!

  2. Hi and welcome!

    I was at the same point. Generally speaking, Dobs are for observation only while astrographs can be used for , well, astrophotography and eyeball observation.

    However, a Dobson does per definition not use any mount - maybe a wedge - while an astrograph needs a precision mount. 8" usually get mounted on an EQ6 or EQ-G(same mount w different paint jobs). It's currently being sold at around 1450EUR if new.

    10" vs 8" will not make a huge difference in observation and also not in astrophotography.

    IF you can financially stem the astrograph and the mount and are willing to put a lot of effort into AP, go for the astrograph.

    HOWEVER, many people do AP with smaller scopes and mounts if the have a lot of time on their hands for longer exposures.

    ===> Plunge into the getting started with AP discussion forum and read,read,read! Best, U.

     

  3. 1 hour ago, Robindonne said:

    Ah nice.  Another quattro owner!   Maybe mine is a mondaymorning version but i kind of hate that Stock focuser.  They upgraded it at one time at least and I probably have the old version.  It looks and feels like a hollow toy compared to the focuser on my other scopes. Had to take it apart to at least move in and out in a straight line.  The focustube on the inside looks like its cut with a grinder by a drunk tubecutter😑. The finefocus knob on yours looks different so maybe its a other/better version.   Im not sure with what i have to upgrade.   Asked some prices for starlight focusers but Im not sure if i want to spend 700,- to get a 500,- item work a little bit better.   Did you really notice a big difference after the eaf was installed or was the focuser working well even before the eaf?    And of course do you own more scopes/focusers to make a good comparison?

    @Robindonne well, the focus was doing ok but not perfect before. it did have a bit of slack, both in move out but also overall, but it was better than those on other SW units. I also have a TS Quadruplet with an even better stock focuser. However, mine seems very similar to https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p3700_TS-Optics-MONORAIL-2--Newton-Auszug-mit-Mikro-Untersetzung.html as it also has this "rail" - about 169EUR.

    HOWEVER: the adding of the ZWO EAF had multiple positive effects: (1) most important-absolutely no slack. The stepper motor avoids any slack. (2) Very precise adjusting as the stepper turns the adjustment way of about 2" into more than 14.000 single step positions, which can be directly positioned - (3) if you find that your perfect focus is at position 13450 when the scope is fully cooled down, you can directly tell the focuser to move to that position the next night - absolute repeatability  IF you control the focuser via EQASCOM or similar (4) moves up to 5kg of equipment (5) no need to loosen & tighten a screw at focus-the stepper motor holds everything tight at the precise position. Should have bought that much earlier, paid around 300EUR with temp sensor and remote controller. 

    Bottom line: I'd rather buy a good motor focuser like ZWO first, and only if things don't improve would buy another focuser.

    Only downside: the ZWO absolutely needs a 12V supply for the stepper motor, and no more hand positioning, only hand controller or computerized movement - thats the downside of it's removal of slack.

    Best, U.

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  4. Hi fellow Newtonians!

    I'd like to show a pic of my newest additions to my rig:

    it's still the old SW Quattro-8S, with the same old EQ-G, but now with a decent adjustable holder for my guide scope, my QHY-8 and a brand new Zwo EAF focuser. The focuser is highly recommended, because it adds a new quality to my focusing procedure although the stock focuser wasnt bad at all- but now it's precisely repeatable.  

    IMG_20200615_233933.jpg

    • Like 3
  5. Dear all, thanks again for your feedback! 

    @ollypenrice Yes, security reasons - but on the other side, who would steal a 12 year-old cam that doesn't even look remotely like a cam at all (for a non-astronomer)? Probably not all that risky after all. But would have to leave the OTA outside as well- have to think about it.

    @AngryDonkey That is, in fact, an extremely interesting idea - never heard of it before, but why not! The FridgeCam(TM)! 😂

    @KevS Thanks! Yep, with 24 Watts for the EQ-G and 30 Watts for the cam's cooler, i'll probably settle for 2 switched+stabilised 5Amps power supplies. I have the luxury of a power outlet at my Bortle 4 home ;) 

    --> Okay - so i have several possibilities:

    1- Optimize setup - minimal prep time 1 hour (lower bound)

    2- Bite the bullet and store OTA outside, cam either outside or in fridge - setup time might go down to maybe 15 minutes if i train a bit - also lower bound.

    ---> I'll first optimize my power setup because that's where most of the fast benefits are. I have already finished a prepped power/usb cable tree. Since i now have a repeatable polar alignment, the biggest pro for a concrete pier has somewhat diminished returns now.

    Again, thanks everybody! Best, U. 

     

     

  6. 45 minutes ago, KevS said:

    I have a comparatively smaller rig where the USB hub and Power distribution hub are all mounted on an oversize (read long) dovetail, complete with both the main and guiding scopes. So when I set up I only have to mount the rig, plug in the usb to pc link and the power to the power distribution hub. I leave the cameras attached. From start to finish I take roughly 1/2 hour. The most time consuming aspect is polar aligning. But obviously with a 200mm telescope thing are different. Nevertheless having all of the hubs integral to the telescopes does save a significant amount of time.  

    Yes, polar alignment was the worst part for me as well. I have now marks on my terrace where the 3 tripod legs ought to be, so the PA is reproducable and good enough for PHD2 to take it from there ;) 

  7. Hello everybody!

    I measured my setup times when i did my last imaging run. Absolutely shocking 🤔 

    Step 1: unmount 8" quattro, disassemble EQ6 into 3 parts, move parts to terrace and reassemble EQ6, remount 8", without counterweights: 6 minutes 50 seconds (correct position marked on terrace, with right arm hurt, good time ;)

    Step 2: Mount counterweights and set scope to park position: 1 minute 55 secs

    Step 3: Connect power sources and connect all cabling: 20 minutes

    Step 4: get the computer and software running (on a very good night): 10 minutes

    Step 5: Let my old QHY8 cam and the scope cool down: 1 hour - otherwise i get strong gradients!

    Total prep time: 1 hour 39 minutes. Obviously, the cable time could be improved massively by training. But even if we could get the cabling time to zero, i'd get only down to 1h24', with the total time being dominated by the cooling of my rig.

    Open question: As i would not leave my cam outside, there seems no real possibly to cut down significantly on my prep time, even with a small obsy? Or am i doing something wrong?

    Best, U.

    P.S.: Getting an expensive cam is right now no good option :( 

     

  8. Hi Paul, i think starting with the skywatcher 130 you found should be a great idea; i have a Skywatcher Quattro-8S and it's an amazing scope for it's price. The EQ6 / Orion EQ-G (same mount, different branding) that i use has also a good value/price ratio and has a smaller brother, the EQ-5, which might be a very good choice. As for Goto /manual: if you know how to handle computers, i'd go for a simple/ manual one as long as it can be hooked up to a pc, and control the mount via EQMOD and Cartes du Ciel. Maybe open a new thread w/ goto vs. manual, as the primary question of this thread is answered ;) Best, U.  

  9. 6 hours ago, malc-c said:

    Seeing that I seldom do an imaging session in the observatory these days as I remote desktop into the observatory PC I would suggest that you may not even need a shed near the mount.  You could get away with a small form factor PC and house that with a mount power supply in a small box next to the mount.  You could have the extension cable stored in the box as well so there is no need to have a permanently installed  electrical feed.  When you want to observe, open the box, reel out the cable and plug it in to the nearest 13amp outlet and away you go.  If you want to image, have a wi-fi card in the PC and remote desktop into the PC from your main PC in the comfort of your living room.

    The box could be as small as 18" x 18" x 24" depending on the PC you use.  A local shop was selling HP8200 SFF (i5, 4GB Ram, 500GB HDD) for £60 inc vat which is ample to drive a scope and run the software required... 

    Absolutely correct and a great idea - but then i won't have a refuge from my better half and the 3 kids 😬

    Lesson learned: even if you try to go thru life straight as an arrow, sometimes even a guy like me has a "hidden agenda"! 

  10. On 09/06/2020 at 12:37, malc-c said:

    Yes it won't budge !! - the pipe is sunk into the "standard" 1m cube of concrete, reinforced with rebar.  The 18" long studs are then sunk into the concrete filled pipe.  This is indeed in my observatory, which was built around this time some nine years ago (build thread in my signature)

    Very nice! Love the photo where you're rolling the shed. I thought a lot 'bout it and will probably settle for a concrete pier with a small warm shed beside it. 

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