Dr_Ju_ju

If it's new, then contact the retailer, & see what they say

Give it a go, it will be a great learning experience for you....

You can build-in tilt correction, strengthening etc. as long as you keep an eye on the back focus... 

As for printing fine threads, yes it is possible, as long as your slicer/printer is capable of it e.g. printing at 0.05 mm layer height, but for 'production' use I'd be tempted to use brass inserts, to hold parts together, and for the inter equipment connections.

I'd base the control on an Arduino system, for which there are plenty of examples available, with motor control, positional detectors etc, and there are even Ascom divers available.

In answer to Vlaiv, here are some studies comparing PLA/ABS/PETG:

https://3dinsider.com/abs-vs-pla/   https://www.3dsourced.com/guides/pla-vs-abs-filament/

https://3dsolved.com/pla-vs-petg/  https://www.3dprintingspot.com/post/petg-vs-pla-main-pros-cons-of-both

Personally I've found that while PLA prints easily, and is great for initial test printing of parts for Astro/outside items etc, over time it will warp, shrink and/or 'break' down, especially if the sun can get at it ...

I've regularly printed using ABS, but it does require a closed room, not necessarily an enclosure, and an application of Elmers/Koores glue stick, to the bed (mine are all PEI sheets) to ensure first layer adhesion. While the the bed temperature required is higher (85c as opposed to 60c), after the first 5/10 layers are completed the bed temperature can be reduced... 

I used Voron Designs recommendation to use ABS, when I printed the parts for my Voron2 machine, all printed on an OLD Prusa i3 MK2 ...

Hence my recommendation to use use PETG, to mainly get around the limitations of PLA/ABS.

Yes there are additional steps required, mainly in the slicer to get a 'cleaner' print etc.  (After trying many others, I settled on using PrusaSlicer...) overall I'm more than satisfied with PETG, and I used it to re-print the Z carriage/Extruder parts for my Prusa i3 Mk2, following many years of service, but an unfortunate accident cased some damage, and I wanted to upgrade some parts... 

The one thing I'd recommend is not to use PLA but either ABS or, my preference, PETG ...   They will both give you a much stronger/resilient print.   

you may find something here https://www.beltingonline.com/timing-pulleys-bars-c-272/

something like this https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-dc-converters/1793346

I'm probably being silly, but are you trying to connect via WiFi or direct ethernet ??

No pictures visible !!

Personally, I'd NEVER recommend anybody uses Facilebook....  

5 minutes ago, StuartT said:

Not sure what DHCP means

Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_Host_Configuration_Protocol) is the standardised method for individual computers (PC's, phone's etc.) to get and IP address so that they can all 'talk' to each other.  

Your router/dhcp server is also your primary DNS server, so it will hopefully be updated when the IP address changes, but there can often be a lag for this to happen.

It's one of the reasons I run my own DHCP/DNS system etc... 

If your router/dhcp server can do it, set a static ipadress for the mac address of your mini pc

If configured properly, then what you linked to, would hopefully drive the mount to point the scope to the right part of the sky.... 

BUT, if you want to truly ensure, that it is indeed pointing at what you want it to point to, and ensure that it keeps pointing at that target, then you need a system that will look at the sky, take an image of what it's supposedly looking at, compare it with a reference image of the target, and then adjust the mount position to correspond to that image.

You could use the main scope to do that, but it's usually better to use a separate guide camera, to perform that function, which can also be used by separate dedicated software to keep things aligned, e.g. PHD2 etc.

You could power it via the Eagle using a dummy battery e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Andoer-DR-E8-LP-E8-Battery-Adapter/dp/B0752G69WQ

Good luck !!

If you want a more robust solution, and have the space to mount the connectors, then I'd recommend "Speakon" multi-pole connectors e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304607702082?hash=item46ec08ac42 & https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284973314751?hash=item4259bbb2bf, they are relatively easy to knock-up and have a simple insert/twist mating action, which has a wiping function that cleans the mating surfaces.

I also use a lot of the GX series (12/16) connectors e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284010878622?hash=item42205e169e, these are a simple insert with rotary locking ring.... 

There is a software extension to the inbuilt OS which will allow for longer exposures etc., https://magiclantern.fm/  or there are multiple software packages that will do what you want, but will require a small computer to drive everything e.g. BackyardEOS https://www.otelescope.com/store/category/2-backyardeos/  or Sharpcap  https://www.sharpcap.co.uk/  etc...

If it's new, as you say, then get in touch with FLO & explain the issues you are having.... 

btw, my Solarquest, take a few minutes before running its internal start-up routine

Well at least I'm glad that all is sorted !! 

Unfortunately Microsoft has no control over 3rd party drivers...  

If you plug both cameras directly into the PC USB ports, what shows up ??

If you connect all devices to PHD2 (camera (174) & mount) & then try & connect camera (2600) to Nina ??   

Also do have all the latest updates, updated drivers installed (there was an ASI update last week) 

For a change, I sometimes use Nina/PHD2 & once again I have no issues connecting devices...  

does W$ see them as two separate devices ?? (device manager) 

What software ??  I mainly use SGPro, and always connect my 1600 & 120 with no issues... 

search for canon 50mm  and an example https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3569569