Dr_Ju_ju

36 minutes ago, Mike Q said:

If it were my set up I would be hitting the local farm store up and buying a heavy duty weather proof tarp with the really good bunji cords.

That what I used for my home-made solution, but as I pointed out, apart from being heavy to handle, over time the material has a tendency to 'crack', which while still prohibits a lot of water to get through, some seepage still gets through...

In answer to your question, it easily covers this:

Does the mount not do meridian flips ??  if it does then it 'should' reverse the movement direction, preventing cable snagging etc.

I have made & use my own, using heavy duty waterproof material, but they are a bit heavy and cumbersome & over time the material has a tendency to 'crack' allowing seepage...

I've recently also started using one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313611338500  which are much lighter & quick to deploy. 

The move mount buttons are probably set at speed 1 (the default) so you may need to set it to 3/4 within the Eqmod window, to notice a change in position.

Maybe Olly Penrice as well as FLO can give an answer ?? 

For me, yes all application 'indicators' follow each other, whichever app I use to drive the mount..... 

Presumably your account is a local admin, therefore you should never run anything as 'Administrator', as that will have a detrimental impact on any network/inter-application communication e.g. APT / CDC trying to 'talk' together via a common gateway (Ascom/Eqmod), due to inherent windows security settings. 

My setup is a local PC being remotely controlled, using remote desktop, and all using a common instance of Ascom/Eqmod, and I can open any number of applications (on the local PC) that connect to this common control instance...

As Malc, has hinted at, did you install any application(s) as "Administrator", if so, then there may well be issues of apps talking to each other, due to permission errors, which may well only be reported in the winows event logs.... 

It sounds like you are missing some interconnecting software e.g. Ascom/Eqmod, as I've just tried connecting APT, CDC, SGPro, BackyardEOS & PHD2 all simultaneously connected to my mount .....

the main importers are Optical Vision Ltd https://www.opticalvision.co.uk/  which is where I usually get any spares etc. but note that if its' not in stock, then it has to be shipped from China by boat, and can take 6~9 months.....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chanzon-20pcs-Listed-Glass-Cartridge/dp/B083R3JPVR/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2RUPFSZH4DJV7&keywords=5a+slow+blow+glass+fuses+6x30&qid=1660313074&sprefix=5a+slow+blow+glass+fuses+6x30%2Caps%2C60&sr=8-5

As Malc has said, try replacing the fuse with a 5A slo-blow type, which should allow for any current draw surges....   BTW, the Celestron Overload short protection, is a fuse, just a more complicated version, that is also re-settable..... 

that would suggest that the power supply is ok, but that something in the wiring 'downstream' from the cigarette plug is at fault....  Is the fuse in the Celestron power pack also rated at 5A ?  if not what rating is it ??

Is that a 5A fuse on the input or the output of the power supply ?? 

A full Sky Quality meter is available from Robert Brown https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinomysqmskyqualitymeter/ which will probably integrate with Nina, but I have to admit I've not tried it....

To get around the problem of the lines, you can use electroluminescent panels e.g.   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233203448748?hash=item364c023bac:g:tboAAOSwt5hYdNSl&var=532702488185

Instead of a "point contact" screw, try & spread the loading contact area by using some 2mm aluminium sheet off cut ....  

I've used various types of stepper motors driven by Rob Brown's controllers i.e. https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/ 

I use multiple supplies to drive various devices, and I've found that not all supplies require a dummy load, and if it does it, just a small load (0.25 mA) therefore 10-15 K ohms is more than adequate, and doesn't waste energy generating waste heat....

have you installed the appropriate usb/serial driver ?

If you truly want a clean output voltage, instead of using a "switched" supply, with its' inherent switching noise, I'd suggest a linear supply, based around a toroidal transformer, bridge rectifier etc.....

In my experience PLA/PETG doesn't suffer much from being opened & left lying around, and even ABS, which is supposedly more touchy, doesn't really suffer much.....   

As for bed adhesion, firstly do a basic mechanics tune-up, then first layer tune-up.....  For the bed surface itself, clean with clean water & lightly clean the surface with a standard kitchen scourer. & dry off with paper kitchen towels.... 

Have you tried hard wired connections, i.e. ethernet, and does it make a difference ??

You've changed the baud rate, but are you selecting the correct port ??

What's wrong with it & have you tried contacting the retailer ??