Dr_Ju_ju

Have a look on ebay et al for a padded briefcase or similar e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364284016585 which with a little cutting should give you what your after

Another freebie from Autodesk, is Tinkercad (https://tinkercad.com), a browser tool, which is what I mainly use, then there is Openscad (https://openscad.org) also free, and is a desktop tool, but does take a little more getting used to....

As an initial test, and if possible, just reverse the motor, to hook up with the other end, but you may then have an issue with the belt properly mating with the wheel.  Just have a play & see what works !!

I did what you suggest, in replacing the single 'Knob', with a pulley wheel, on an old ST80, I use for Astro e.g.

It's good to make use of parts you already have....   

One thing I found with my similar mods, is that hooking the motor up to the 'slo-mo' wheel meant that it took ages to reach focus, and if using some of the auto-focus tools meant failure as it wasn't able to reach/go-through focus quickly enough....

What do you mean by "radio waves", what wavelength, ultra low to past the visible spectrum ??  

can the powerbank be adjusted, or even modifiable?  if so, then it should be possible to fit a 7812 series regulator, as long as it will supply the current required by the camera...

The board marking show that it's a capacitor, which is usually a quite rare thing to blow....  It may be possible to replace it, if you are adept at reading its value, the removing/replacing the surface mounted device, but there may well be other damaged components, that caused the capacitor to blow in the first place...

Have you ensured that all Device Manager/ Universal Serial Bus controllers / Power Management tab (if available), have the "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" unchecked  

... and their supposed stainless steel, obviously isn't, & the chrome is also a joke !!   You also need to be reasonable proficient at stripping them down, cleaning the crap & re-greasing.....   

have you asked the supplier of the mount ??

A link to it ??

1 hour ago, vlaiv said:

sheet loosing magnetic properties on higher print (or rather bed) temperatures?

Not a problem, I print some at an initial temperature of 100C, and then drop back to 80~90C

And so the expense increases....

To get away from the glass bed I'd recommend a spring steel sheet, PEI coated, and with a magnetic sheet that is adhered to the heat bet, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284561380268?hash=item42412e13ac  

Two disadvantages, are that you lose a little in print height, and bed heating settings need readjustment, but it does make it sooo much easier with the the more trying filaments. 

 Well printed, but for longevity, I'd suggest printing in ABS, or maybe PETG...

You pre-order Pi's from Farnell, i.e. https://uk.farnell.com/raspberry-pi/rpi4-modbp-8gb/raspberry-pi-4-model-b-cortex/dp/3369503?CMP=e-email-sys-orderack-GLB I have a couple on order, not necessarily for Astro work....

I have also used Pine64 and Odroid boards:  https://www.pine64.org/devices/single-board-computers/rock64/ https://www.pine64.org/rockpro64/ https://www.odroid.co.uk/odroid-xu4  

All work well but I've not used them with Astroberry just Kstars etc. also they can be a frig to set up, so I highly recommend using Armbian for initial software install.... 

Have you tried swapping the the DEC/ALT connections to prove it's the motor & not the driver & does it have anything printed on it, to at least give us an idea of what to look for ??

Check that your connections are solid & have no tarnishing.... 

I don't know whether you've come across this site (https://www.astroeq.co.uk/tutorials.php) but I made one to drive an old EQ5 mount, & it works quite well ....

that's easily got around in Tinkercad....

Hmm my bad    grovelling....

A pointless exercise as they are all useless, even the supposed 'medical' ones https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3vY2LyQn1A

Is the grease you are using rated for use at cold temperatures, as not all are ??

If you know someone with a 3d printer then get them to make some for you....

Personally, I wouldn't trust it to power something demanding over that length, due to voltage drops etc...  It may well work ok as a signal booster ??, but from my experience with powered\non-powered USB devices\hubs etc, over even much shorter lengths, performance has been sadly lacking, with dropouts, device conflicts etc.

The error message is pointing out that the software is expecting a device on Port 1, but device manager is showing no device on the port.... 

If your device is connected ok, then you must either change the port allocation in device manager (right click/properties/port settings/advanced/COM port number) or update the settings in the software.