stash_old

10 hours ago, Gina said:

I think the answer must be to save up for a ZWO camera - they are so much better than a DSLR.

Already have a ZWO thanks

11 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Yeah, DSLR's use GPhoto which is a generic driver, which is trying to be all things to all DSLR cameras, not a good solution, unless your camera happens to fit....

The ZWO support, on the other hand, is very good, & when I've had the chance to connect everything together, all has worked flawlessly.

 

Wouldn't be so bad if Indy had a Windows Client then perhaps the Canon Dslr issue would be solved by using DSLR on Windows Mini but I suspect it would be too slow as Virtualhere(linux connects to DSLR via VirtualHere server)  is but at least the latter works every time just too slow on RAW images.

One thing I noticed I quoted tb6600 - I used the older board which the tb6600 is the new replacement. It was TB6560

my orig board https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TB6560-CNC-Router-Single-1-Axis-Stepper-Motor-3A-Driver-Controller-Board/253682904482?epid=505799232&hash=item3b10adeda2:g:VWgAAOSwXeJYDReW

Sorry about that.

Yes I will try and help you out ? as long as its not soldering LOL

13 minutes ago, fozzybear said:

excellent , i'm confused on the wiring to the nano do you have a photo at all greatly appreciated

andy

Try and remember a real photo but the attach is not far off if they haven't changed the TB6600 board deails (Please check yourself) - most details were etched on the board for setting options - e.g. Microstepping,Current etc

En- and En+   Enable the TB6600

CW+ and CW- Control the direction

CLK+ and Clk-  control the Stepping

B- B+ are 1 coil of the Stepper (4 wire) see spec sheet which if you buy from OMC normal is in the box ?

A- A+ are the other coil of the Stepper

But you need only one set hence EN- CW- and CLK- all to common GND

No need to connect ground between stepper power and Nano 

Hope that helps

2 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Ubuntu Mate on the Rock, but I'm not using a DSLR, but ASI1600MM & 120MM cameras. It's a real frig switching stuff around at the mo when the weather is soooo good & I've got everything setup on my garden pier & working fine (its a Win10\SGPro\PHD2 etc.) 

That's why I wont move although someone else on here shows a Canon 700d working but the last time I tried it (4mths ago) Canon Indi support was too flaky BUT may think about doing it for my ZWO camera. Thanks for the info I shall look forward to an update when you go live !!!!

Gina there is a 5ghz dongle for the Rock hats supplied by Pine !

9 minutes ago, fozzybear said:

Stash

I am seriously interested in this option can you give me more information apart from the two items listed above greatly appreciated

Andy

What do you what to know Andy  ?

 added to the kit listed is 1 x Nano ,4 wire Bipolar Stepper from OMC, a DIY stepper bracket for your Scope, project box,USB cable to PC,wire to connect Nano adapter to TB6600.

The Gnd,Step(+),Dir(+),Enable(+)  pins to correspond to Roberts Pin assignment for DRV8825_M version Focuser Pro all the other pins on the Nano side on the TB6600 are connected to Gnd.      

 Stepper side of TB6600 is connected to Bipolar Stepper Wire motor wire (or extended up to 6ft) depends on your spec plus a DC power feed - I use 12v limited to 3amp via fuse. With the heat sink in place its good for 3 amps .

The TB6600 is optically isolated so the Nano is protected from the Stepper. The USB PC link provides the 5V power to the Nano - I dont use/need the voltage pins on the Naon. Have been using this set up for 30 months with only 1 problem which was cured by reloading the INO program to the Nano.

// Stepper Motor stuff, control pins for DRV8825 board
#define myDir     3
#define myStep    4
#define myM0      5  // microstepping lines
#define myM1      6
#define myM2      7
// m0/m1/m2 sets stepping mode 000 = F, 100 = 1/2, 010 = 1/4, 110 = 1/8, 001 = 1/16, 101 = 1/32
// steps per revolution = 200, 400, 800, 1600, 6400
// must set the current limiting for microstepping to work correctly

// ENABLE - Setting CoilPwr controls the disable or enable state of the EASYDRIVER board outputs
int boardstate;
#define OUTPUTENABLED 1
#define OUTPUTDISABLED 0
#define myEnable  8

NOTES

I dont use Microstepping lines (pins 5,6,7) as the TB6600 is manually set (no option to program) to the step size via switches ,so is the current and a few other  settings- works fine for me - board never misses a beat.

The DRV8825_M does not have support for LCD,Rotary or Temp as I use mine remotely from my Obsys so pointless (my temp is done differently via a different program using UDP and Wemos d1 mini's) - you could do one of the other RB versions to add lcd or rotary or temp

That worked for me !

Using a screw driver you can wire this kit quickly - just map what goes where first - I didn't and blew my first Nano up by connecting wrong wire LOL.

Drill holes to attach the TB6600 and the Nano Adapter to the project box

Drill a hole for the USB cable and the Stepper Motor Wires (which I covered in shrink outer skin) - I used grommets for the holes to added water/dew protection

Suggest a dry run out side the project box to make sure the wires and TB settings are set correctly.

Biggest time consuming item was creating a bracket for the Stepper on the Scope - I used direct connection (via shaft coupler) but belt driven would work just watch the ratio's.

I did later change Robert's excellent code to use Accel Library (stepper control) which gives far more flexibility and control of stepper motors via ANY driver board (IMHO) and I no longer use Ascom as I wrote my own Python GUI interface. But the original was Robert's code unaltered.

Anything else ?

Be interesting to see a report in say 3 months time after some real time testing - for me especially any Canon DSLR connections that work for long exposures as I notice you have(had) DSLR 350d/600d/1100d .  

What OS dist are you using ?

1 hour ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Stash, why are you so against people soldering ?? 

You've said you can't solder for toffee, but given a morning, I probably could teach even you to solder...  (I used to train "supposed" wire-people for the BBC).

I am not against soldering at all great if you can do it well - only stating the obvious that a lot of people cant solder well (or wont admit it) and bad soldering can cause problems down the road.  Plus using readily made sub components are faster,cheaper and can be replaced easier when things go wrong! 

Using these as an example :

1. http://www.dx.com/p/tb6560-single-axis-3a-stepper-motor-driver-green-10-35v-214349#.WzJZAinzzWA

2. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breakout-Board-for-Arduino-Nano-Terminal-Adapter-/182206532642?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

Using the above I have built a focuser (excluding stepper and focuser bracket) inside 20mins to use Robert's basic model code unchanged all without soldering. Cost under £20 inc project box. 

So in a nut shell ,as I have said I am not against soldering, but for those who cant or wont there are alternatives which perform just as well. ? Being informed is king.

In this case Soldering for Iwols is not a problem.

So each to his/her own.

49 minutes ago, iwols said:

loading the software might be though

Thats the simple bit LOL  - enjoy your project

Before you start please ask yourself a couple of questions and be honest :-

1. Am I capable of doing reasonable soldering 

2. If things go wrong am I (or a close/local friend) electronically savy enough to be able to diagnose where the problem lies.

3. I wont to spend more time doing electronics and software than Astronomy - especially if time is limited.

If you answer no to any of the above I ,IMHO, would not recommend doing the "Full Monty" - using parts not sub level components

Else enjoy your project and being able to say at the end " I did that" - with a big grin

5 hours ago, iwols said:

this usb controlled

Not in the strictest sense - it uses the USB port on the Nano which is seen as a Serial COM port on PC/Linux etc when connected. A minor point point but you have to realise it will need a driver on Windows  PC - The best Nano's,IMHO, come with CH340 or FDTI USB/TTL Serial chip - but some don't especially clones and can be a nightmare - Prolific chipped Nano's are one make to be wary of !

1 hour ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Most can be 'knocked-up' on Veroboard, but I know for Rob Browns system (linked above), the boards can be ordered from aisler.net

 if you can soldier fine else you have no alternative but to buy the "ready built" driver boards as used in the 3d print industry (50% cheaper than Roberts nice boards) and then its a screw driver job and metal work for the bracket - or buy a ready built focuser.

3 hours ago, saac said:

Must be a British supplier surely?

Jim 

Sorry Chinese as far as i am aware

Just now, Horwig said:

so long delivery times are not  a problem

Well not always true but they do mark if the stock is held in the UK which is great - so check first even if the stock level looks ok - Once "ran out" of UK stock even though it reported 10+ they answer very promptly.

IMHO -  I also suggest direct drive - no belts . Using a coupler like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminum-Alloy-Drive-Flexible-Shaft-Coupler-Motor-Connector-3-5mm-Red-/122630560672?clk_rvr to replace the "wheel" if it comes off easily. Limits backlash and gives you a simple 1:1 ratio plus simpler bracket.

1 hour ago, Dave_D said:

28BYJ-48 12v

Probably get away with it on a focuser but where you need repetitive accurate positioning,e.g. Filer Wheel, they are very poor and do a skip every now and then in my experience no matter what driver/step count/voltage/current is being used. Plus they get very hot when pushed to the limit and switching off,via software, the coils is a must. As Gina says "light duty" only.

But if it works for you then great !

1. Another Robert Brown Focuser supporter - but if you want to use std bits use either the A4988 or drv8825 (same as A4988). or lot bigger footprint but will handle ANY current/voltage use a single axis TB6600 driver board - used one for 3 yrs without a blink and using any Nema 8 - 42 even with high torque geabox. As I say the size is the problem with the TB6600 but needs no soldering or fiddling current/voltage measurements as per A4988/DVR8825.

  Roberts support is brilliant !

2. If you do your own via Arduino IDE please use Accel library - makes thing easy and supports every driver there is. A professional bit of software with many key features not found in Roberts or Dave's projects (IMHO).

3. Nano is stuck with USB/Serial connection without add ons - look at ESP32 which has Wifi therefore no need for any addons or USB/Serial. Best for accuracy is Teensy as its MHZ rate is far greater than Nano but are more expensive !

4. Steer clear of 5v or 12v 28byj - they are useless and cannot be counted on for accuracy especially with high torque micro stepping.

5. As someone else has pointed out OMC-Online (use there own site it is sometimes cheaper than Ebay) have great Stepper motors and a vast range. Just have to hit the site/ebay when they are trying to get rid of a range/stock. Excellent delivery - for me anyway.

6. Ascom supplied driver(Dave and Robert provide this) is probably the best but I have found a lot of problems mainly with the Camera software provider side

To be honest if you can use a RPI for something else as well as a focuser then go RPI as you can one of the 4 ports(1 on RPI zero W) and it works great - look up SER2NET and HWCONFIG virtual com if you want Windows support and still use RPI. I have run SW Mount and Focuser thru RPI from Windows Vista - 10 with no problems and you dont get driver problems on Linux (well nearly never with USB/Serial HW)

Have a great build !

Sorry to break the bad news but the ESP32 chip software is not quite 100% reliable IME - e.g. 3 Uarts - no there isn't - only 2 that can send and recv data plus the OLED shares the  pins with the flash memory so if you use them -oops it goes illegal and restarts.

The Wifi is ok but not brilliant on some clones. Programming the Wifi is a nightmare when you get complicated due to the RTOS used by the ESP32 chip - tip do not use long DELAY but relinquish control ASAP so the RTOS can do its Wifi core routines.

Yes it could be a great little device (there are so many clones/implemtations of the esp32) but its not as good/reliable as the ESP8266. But for £12 (oled version) is not bad - IMHO

p.s. The documentation is pretty poor in places you have to dig everywhere and some is conflicting or just wrong.  WEMOS and Adafruit ESP32 version seems to be reliable but some ESP32 implementations produce some funny results when tested with the same code.

Having said that it can be made to do things and it takes up small space and power. The built in OLED versions are nice .

I have used it to control SW mounts (acting as AP,STA and AP+STA) and to drive focus stepper motors all under Arduino IDE.

Also have a look at Smartconfig which runs on Android Phones etc and allows you to connect the ESP32(in STA mode) to any network without inbuilt details such as passwords - again a bit iffy IME

In a nutshell IMO W.I.P but FUN

4 hours ago, Peterh1 said:

I have synscan pro app working great with SW wifi adapter on my az-eq5 (I don't use skysafari directly). 

However, I'm just trying to get into auto-guiding - can I ask whether it is possible to set up auto-guiding at the same time (with a pc, phd2, and either st4 or ascom system), or does the wifi dongle have to be disconnected for this to work.  Or do I have to go the route of the windows synscanpro app and scrap the phone app when guiding using ascom? ( st4 presumably OK alongside) 

Hope this makes some sense!

Thanks

Peter

If you are using Ascom and the Synscan Pro mobile Ascom driver you can use PHD2 to do guiding with the Synscan Adapter.

You just get PHD2 to connect to the  SynScan Mobile Ascom driver AFTER you have started(and connected the mount successfully) the Windows SynScan Pro program .  You can still use Safari from your Android phone/tablet - you just connect to the IP address of the Windows PC.

I have ignored ST4 method as I dont use it - but someone who has will explain the different set up.

1 hour ago, Lockie said:

every night there's cloud rolling in over the east coast   

Can even see the cars headlights across the fields the cloud is so low here - its b@@@@@y depressing - must be suffering from SAD

27 minutes ago, sulaco said:

I like this thread a lot, a hand held control is often more versatile that cabled or pc based control.

Does anybody know if it's possible to connect the WiFi adapter in series to the lynx astro eqmod cable which connects via usb to the pc.

Never use handset but it could be usfule sometimes so if adapter can connect to mount port the lynx cable it would be ideal.

Cheers

Campbell

If I read you right you want to have both the Wifi Adapter and the Lynx cable connected at the same time? - if so my first answer would be no as there is no connection port that allows both and you are talking about two different interfaces - RS232/TTL to Wifi(Sky Wifi adapter) and RS232/TTL to USB/Serial Com port(Lynx).  You can of course just do the obvious and swap them about as required.

Maybe I am not getting what you mean 

You mentioned "Pad" - is that an Apple Pad - maybe its not been updated but I can verify its on Android version 1.8 where "Prusling" states it is. Does make it bigger (buttons are the same size) just comes further up the screen. 

One question to all users does your App rotate ok ?

4 hours ago, kerrylewis said:

Yes it was the synscan app on the iPhone that would not connect. 

Still the Apple O/S short coming/restriction I am afraid - oh well  - one area Android/Windows wins

4 hours ago, kerrylewis said:

I used the Skyfi to connect to the mount. The Iphone had the app running and showed that it was connected to the Skyfi unit but the app was unable to make the connection 

Sorry Kerry just trying to get things straight in my head - when you say App on Iphone - which App - I presume Synscan Pro - so What was the App that was unable to connect  and was that on the same Iphone ?

4 hours ago, kerrylewis said:

I used the Skyfi to connect to the mount. The Iphone had the app running and showed that it was connected to the Skyfi unit but the app was unable to make the connection 

2 hours ago, kerrylewis said:

Stash_old - I have tried this with my iPhone. The connection option comes up as you suggest and I have entered the IP address but the app just says ‘Cannot connect’ 

Doesn't surprise me - but for the record  what hardware(not Apple) did you have connected to the Mount and did this have Synscan App running on it and it connected to the AZEQ6 ?  - the latter doesn't work then the rest wont !

As I say I have only tested this out with Android type hardware - weakness of Apple O/S  !

it would be simpler to use a cheap Android phone or Android TV box ,put the phone next to the mount(not compulsory) and connect to it via Sky Safari from you Apple thingy's. You could then do anything you like(again not tried on Apple)!  I suspect but havn't tried it out you go use one of those cheap Android TV box's (£30) put that next to the mount , connect Synscan App on the TV box to the mounts SW Wifi Adapter do your 2 or 3 point Alignment then connect Sky Safari to the Android TV box (ip address and port 11882 on Sky Safari - if Apple version the same as Android).

You would need to use something like VMlite VNC server on the TV box and have a Vnc viewer app on Apple (- think Apple allows you Vnc Viewer via Itunes) but only to load and do the initial alignment on Synscan App then disconnect and run Sky Safari. Stress I have not tested this as I dont use Apple

I have tried the SynScan App (pro) on my TV Box - looks big on a 40inch TV