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Everything posted by Ohgodwherediditgo

  1. Pleased to hear you got it sorted. If your not spending half your time fixing something or suffering your own silly mistakes then your not doing astrophotography in my experience.
  2. This is the first image i have produced that I'm actually happy with ! Stacked in DSS and processed entirely in Gimp, I have been trying to learn using freeware before i decide on PS or Pixinsight. Intergration: 139 x 60sec @ ISO 800 68 X 240SECS @ ISO 400 6 hours 52 mins total using a Canon 1000D behind a Vixen VC200L @ F9 over two nights.
  3. I can't offer a great deal of experience but I'll be shooting the Fossil Footprint tonight and hopefully tomorrow, with an Altair Triband filter in front of my 1000D. I'm hoping to be unaffected by the moon so it's a bit of an experiment.
  4. I have a pair of Grubbs Frostline wellies that are very warm in the winter. They are neoprene with a somewhat foamy kind of overcoat to shoe height, which was a bit concerning at first because i normally associate a bit of weight with durability and these are quite light. I can't recommend them for long walks though as the stitching runs from the top, right down the back of my heel so a thick pair of socks are required. One thing i learned from riding a motorbike is that it's important not to touch anything cold without gloves on a very cold morning before setting off because you lose heat every time you do and don't get it back. It's easier to stay warm than to get warm.
  5. From what i have gathered they are a good imaging scope but a bit of a niche. They are made to order from skywatcher from most vendors because demand is low. I can't see them making headway because of their weight, I wouldn't mind a go with one though. Some of the Meade SMs where known for having a crap focuser, you would know about that i suppose.
  6. I just finished doing the power mod on my Neq6 Pro and thought I would share the part numbers of the connectors that I have used because a lot of the older posts reference Maplin for the parts and they no longer sell electronics components. They are both from RS Components, IP68 rated (for outdoors) and rated at 10 amps. The panel connector fits under the pcb but with very little clearance, so I finished my soldered joints with shrinkable tube for better insulation. RS Pro Cable Mount Circular Connector, 2 Contacts p/no 144-4186 RS Pro Bulkhead Mount Circular Connector, 2 Contacts p/no 144-4165
  7. OK, I'm going to say that the 127 Mak is unsuitable for you. It is a great scope for planetary viewing but not ideal for use with children. Reflectors do require some occasional collimation which requires an additional tool and a bit of patience but that is the only downside really.
  8. +1 for the 130 Heritage. Reflectors just can't be beaten in terms of aperture for £, which is what you want for visual . If you've been reading about first scopes then you've probably read a lot that the best scope is the one that gets used the most, and that will come down to ease and speed of setup, especially with kids.
  9. I recently missed an open evening due to self isolating . I did look at membership with them but they have a long waiting list.
  10. Assuming that all is well with the software, exposure length could be an issue. I normally expose for 5-10 secs for plate solving but recently had to go to 20 seconds at ISO 800 on the Deer Lick Cluster to get a result.
  11. I have attempted to join Southampton Astronomical Society but it doesn't seem to be active, so was hoping someone on here could point me to a club that is active nearish Fareham. My interest is in astrophotography rather than visual, aside from the odd spectacle or a bit of planetary visual with the kids.
  12. I have had this problem with a dslr while using Nina but it's always because i have cancelled an exposure mid shot in Nina but the camera continues on but then fails to download. The camera always stays connected to Nina, 'hung' in it's download until i remove power from the camera, and i mean pull the plug as the camera will continue trying to download as long as there is power available after it's been switched off. After that everything is fine. It's easy to see whats going on there with a dslr as it has a screen. HTH.
  13. I used astronomy.tools before i bought the guide scope and camera :
  14. That's guided. The scope is 1800mm F9 though so not ideal for learning on.
  15. That's been the trouble. I can't go for longer than 2 mins without getting elongated stars. My subs at 2 mins are slightly elongated but stacking makes then pretty good. I'm trying to get to 5 mins to experiment with swamping the read noise of my dslr. I expect that checking for cone error then using software to assist will be near as damn it, well I'm hoping so. If not then I'll renew the mount bearings as Dec has more drag than I'd like. I did repack the tapered bearings recently ( properly and with synthetic grease ) and noticed one of the sealed bearings was a bit rough.
  16. Thanks for the detailed reply. I'll check for cone error as soon as the clouds clear enough. Unfortunately I will have to shim between the scope and dovetail if adjustment is required. The polemaster had crossed my mind but I didn't want to throw money at the problem straight away, although it does seem to me to be the cream of the crop for pa.
  17. I don't currently use any software for PA. I normally move Polaris in the polar scope to the 12 o'clock position, then use the clock on the setting circle to rotate the polar scope to the correct position and then make the alt / dec adjustments. That was until my last session, when i noticed big smudges instead of stars after leaving it far too long to check an image. I opened up the guiding assistant in PHD and let it run it's routine, after which it reported that my PA was 30 ' out, impressive, i thought ! I went through my usual PA routine and checked the assistant again to find i was within 2 ', so i settled for that. I have since invested £5 in one of China's finest laser pointers to avoid that mistake again. Anyway, N.I.N.A has a new PA routine, currently on a nightly release that I'm thinking of updating to. I'm a bit hesitant to because I'm not sure if my imaging scope should be perfectly aligned with the polar scope ( which it isn't ) to get good PA using the imaging scope. Is alignment between polar and main scope critical for using software ? Edit: I suppose what I'm asking is if it is normal for software to compute an offset if they are not?
  18. Did you use a filter for either ? I recently modded my 1000D the same way and now considering a Badder Neodymium in a Bortle 5.
  19. This was not the intended target for the evening, but after a rocky start due to guiding issues, I pointed to the East Veil Nebula at 23:30 and tried to salvage something from the session. Vixen VC200L @ F9 + modded Canon 1000D. ISO 200 for 40 x 120sec subs, dithered every 3 frames. I used ISO 200 after my initial attempt on the Pac Man Nebula at ISO 800 seemed to have over exposed stars. I am fairly happy with the exposure of stars, not so much the shape. This is only my second image and I'm still learning the processing basics but any constructive criticism is welcome .
  20. I just looked at tracing panels on amazon and i can't believe that these haven't been mentioned already ! Thanks
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