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Shelster1973

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Everything posted by Shelster1973

  1. Shelster1973
    That was one of the best things I have ever witnessed. Only second to this was watching Felix take a big step into nothing....... A major historical moment that I was glad to have witnessed. The simultaneous booster landing was unreal. Cannot wait for the next one and hope that goes as 'nominal' as this launch.
  2. Shelster1973
    Will be a delay on the video, sorry. Did not get a chance over the weekend and am slammed in work this week, so will try my hardest to get it done in the week if i get a chance, or next weekend.
  3. Shelster1973
    Jem Will read and inwardly digest the manual again and get this done for you as best as I can, hopefully getting the main points across that you need.
  4. Shelster1973
    I can try...but you have been warned :-) What do you want me to cover in it? Let me know and can get one done over the weekend as am away until then.
  5. Shelster1973
    No worries Am glad you have it sorted.....enjoy
  6. Shelster1973
    That may well be the case. Have just re-read the manual for the standard mount and it does say that the exposure time is set to 100 sec when running in sidereal tracking. It may be best to re-flash the stock image, prove it still functions and then re-try the advanced firmware again, but from a fresh download, just in case something went awry in the 1st one.
  7. Shelster1973
    Have you checked that you have the dial correctly aligned and that you are using the EXP function? You should see one flash with the switch to S and then no flashes on TL and N if your exposure time has been set to 100 seconds. See the video below for mine. It was originally set for 120 s exposure, as can be seen by the blinking. I just randomly mashed the buttons so that you can see the change. Is no talking on there as you do not want to hear my dulcet tones putting you to sleep. Can do another with commentary if you so desire though.
  8. Shelster1973
    On the newly printed and installed control wheel, you move the dial to EXP. Then if you look at the side that has the two push buttons on and the switch to change between S - Time Lapse - N , you can adjust the time there. With the switch in the S position, you can change the hundreds of seconds, Timelapse changes the tens of seconds and N changes single seconds. The light blink in accordance to the number of seconds set. You change up and down the required amount with the push buttons. So for 185 sec (for example) put switch to S and see how many it flashes. Press the up and down arrows to change to desired amount, then watch the flashes to confirm the correct number is recorded. Then switch to timeplase and repeat and the same again for N. You then switch the mount off and it stores the settings. Then use the mount as you have been doing and it should expose for what you have set
  9. Shelster1973
    Not that I noticed. I did take a video of it and will upload it later tonight when I get home.
  10. Shelster1973
    Just had the print and also the right angled finder delivered today. All set up and is an absolute godsend. Did not need all the parts I had printed in the end as used the Nikon round adapter that comes with the Neweer Finder. Very many thanks again, is top drawer fab
  11. Shelster1973
    I did find with mine that the housing that is screwed to the motor was slightly misaligned...that is the motor shaft was not centred in the hole. I slacked off the screws, adjusted and then re-tightened. Have rebuild the gearbox now and used some white lithium WD40 to lube up in there. Will be finishing the rebuild of the mount over the next week or so. Am in no rush as the weather is up to it's usual and being wet and miserable.
  12. Shelster1973
    Parts ordered from a local firm and should be dropped off to me on monday. Went with a laser resin print for it.....bit pricey for the start up but should look quite good. Will put some pics up when I get them too
  13. Shelster1973
    Aye..it has been dropped a few times and did get a wee bit of a knocking when I was removing the RA axis as was not aware of the last grub screw........is well out of warranty, so am not that concerned about the looks of it. Just need it to function to the best that it can and all will be good
  14. Shelster1973
    You will struggle to get an exact width replacement as the one Celestron put I there is frankly pants. I have a thread from last year with some images in ref the bearing here. You can see that there is a size difference, but this is easily overcome with a wee bit of fettling. Think if people saw my mount now they would wince...has had a fair few tweaks and adjustments to it. The last was an inspection hole drilled into the front by the Az adjusters. I have these swapped out for some micro-adjusters and was not sure they were hitting the Az post....so one 12mm hole later I was able to get my inspection camera into there and confirm they were hitting.
  15. Shelster1973
    For the RA axis big bearing I have had to drill another access hole to get to the grub screw as the replacement is a wee bit larger. Is silly east to do as the casting is quite soft Was a straight swap for the main RA thrust bearing and also the worm bearings too
  16. Shelster1973
    Excellent and many thanks. Have been wanting to get the RA finder to save my legs and also make for better viewing. Just need to find an on the line print service to get it made and then order the finder from Amazon......oh and wait for it finally become clear again.
  17. Shelster1973
    Just carried out a bit of reverse engineering on the PP receipt and worked out it was these that I ordered
  18. Shelster1973
    Had a nosey poke and the worm bearings are 686z bearings. Believe I got the replacements from Wychbearings (have a paypal receipt from them, but it does not have a huge amount of info on there other than it cost me £17.11), and they have following specs id = 6mm od = 13mm width = 5mm
  19. Shelster1973
    Will do Shame that the wobble is still there. Did you swap the worm gears when you had it apart? That was one thing that I have done on mine. The old ones did not look to great when they came off as you can see in the image below, but my mount lives outdoors, so this will have contributed to it. Plus I think that the worst is on the face and not the race. Can't remember which bearings I went for to replace of the top of my head. Will have a dig through my emails and see if I can find the invoice for the new ones. Are very easy to swap out too.
  20. Shelster1973
    Very nice.....but scary to some. I have had my AVX in parts several times and need to get it apart again this weekend as when I removed my OTA the other day to be able to mod my DIY motor focuser, noticed there was a rather large amount of wobble. One part is due to the re-assembly of the mount around the axis where you can alter elevation and the other is due to the worm housing. I thought I had that nailed down, but it seems to not be the case. As I will have to get the motor off to be able to adjust and tighten correctly, think I will have a look in the gear box and also see if I have this 11 sec wobble that you mention too.
  21. Shelster1973
    May seem strange....but give it a good stretch when you use it The one I have sometimes causes misfires or does not fire at all. last night when plugging in it feels a bit loose. Does not feel like when plugging in a headphone jack
  22. Shelster1973
    If you are saving straight to the card in the camera you can look at the preview. I have just tended to fire off the 1st few shots then look at them for focus and frame then leave it to itself when all is good
  23. Shelster1973
    Yup. Printed it off and fitted it under the dial. iirc I also had to cut out a clear plastic disc to protect the new dial disc
  24. Shelster1973
    Aye that would be good I updated mine to the advanced firmware. That gives good control over the timer and it also flashes to show what you have set too
  25. Shelster1973
    The SA does have a snap port built in, so you just need a cable to connect your camera to it and the intervalometer thing is sorted. This is what I use when imaging widefield dslr
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