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Alien 13

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Posts posted by Alien 13

  1. 5 minutes ago, Helen said:

    Thanks :smile:

    My initial experience of the tripod is that it compromises stability/rigidity for lightweight and cost (I remember someone saying that everyone wants a cheap, light, stable tripod, but you could have at most two out of those three!).  The pillar is rigid though.  But at least with a 3/8 fitting it is straightforward to upgrade to a better tripod!

    Helen

    Its an unfortunate result of the laws of Physics with tripods that you cant have all three, for me weight is the most important provided some of the stability can be recovered by going low, can the height be adjusted by any amount?

    Alan

  2. 1 hour ago, HN50 said:

    It has been a bit of a while since I have done anything on this what with work and my attempts to detect SIDs with my laptop and a loop antenna, however I have been wanting to get back to it.  I had thought about trying to see if I could design one from scratch but in the end working with someone else's schematic would be more straightforward. 

    I spent some time making a proper test bed for prototyping circuits as I had been trying to hold the breadboard in one hand, and antennas, volume controls, batteries and earths in the other.  I found some spare Perspex kicking around and made the thing below;

    IMG_1021.thumb.jpg.8360690fb419e648eb0a9c1966c64802.jpg

    Everything is mounted in the board, and all you need to do is make sure you are touching the earth (the bolt on the left).

    I have started making the BBB-4 by Stephen McGreevy as I would quite like to try a different design to the one I built before.  On its own it does not have an amplifier powerful enough to drive headphones, so I have also looked around for the circuit for this too.

    The circuit in the screenshot works (I can hear that telltale spitting pan sound :) ), though there is quite a lot of feedback on the volume.  

    Anyway, I will look at that and if I can get it working I will turn it into another of those plans and post it here.

    Nice, its good to see a proper test bed..

    Alan

  3. The key to stability with the SA and lightweight tripod is to keep it low to the ground, this is easy if your camera has a flip out screen and you have a right angled camera viewfinder you can hold against the polarscope,  tethering and using Polemaster would also let you keep it low. The addition of a camera ball head used with the L bracket is very useful for framing wide field shots.

    Alan

    • Like 1
  4. 3 minutes ago, carastro said:

    Having used both DSLR and Mono CCD cameras, my comments are as follows:

    A DSLR is certainly a lot cheaper and probably a lot less to learn for a beginner.  In particular processing is probably more straightforward.

    BUT  Apart from the fact that a Mono CCD camera shows much more detail, it is far easier to see if you have the target framed in the FOV and get focus.  

    I have been helping a newbie recently with a DSLR and I had forgotten how difficult it was to find the point of focus with a DSLR, if you're not near focus you won't even see it on live view, and you certainly can't see the nebulosity.  So from that point of view Mono cameras are easier for a beginner.

    Therefore in summary, I recommend a beginner (if they can afford it) should start with a mono camera and just do Mono imaging for a short while until they get the hang of it all.  A filterwheel and filters can be added afterwards.

    Carole 

     

    I am not sure about this, I can see nebulosity in liveview with a DSLR and it takes no more than 20 seconds to hit perfect focus just using liveview first at normal magnification then X5 then X10 and certainly without any tools or bat mask, I expect that the fast optics I am using helps though.

    Alan

  5. 10 minutes ago, Timebandit said:

     

    Sorry. Do not agree that 120mm does not excel at anything???

    For lunar and planetary on visual, at its price point then the frac SW120 ed really takes some beating IMO. Give me a 120ed over a 70mm frac any day .

    But if Jules wants DSO faint fuzzy Woow moments ,then it's great seeing conditions and dark sky's IMO combined with as much aperture as you can get your hands on and a 6" reflector is not going to be enough aperture for a Woow moment IMO☺

     

    A 70 mm frac can do widefield something that a 120 mm cant.

    Alan

  6. I have always thought that a 120 mm frac sits in a middle ground where doesn't excel at anything, 70 mm fracs are great at wide field vistas 6 inch reflectors start to open up DSO and small Maks do lunar like nothing else for there price, I wonder if its a case of wrong scope in the wrong place.

    Alan

    • Like 1
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