Alien 13

I dont know much about the Canon M100 but provided it has bulb mode and a remote shutter connector it should work but the most often recommended starter cameras are the 450D which was the first model with liveview and the 600D because of its articulated view screen.

Recommended sites for used cameras are MPB photographic and WEX.

Alan

Does the Nikon battery grip have the option of using AA batteries like the Canon one does, the reason I ask is because the Canon allows the use of 6 AA batteries which equates to around 9V or more. I have used a 5V power bank to 9V converter on my 80D but it does need dual 2.1A inputs to work.

Alan

Hi Stuart and a warm welcome to SGL..

Alan

I like my EQ3-2 and never had a problem with the aluminium tripod, the secret is to use it un extended which is easy if you have a DSLR with flip out screen and  RA camera viewfinder on the polarscope. 

Alan

1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:

It's a 0.8 metre Ritchey Chrétien with mirrors by Dany Cardoen. The planetary eyepiece is - ahem - a 31MM Nagler. This leads me to suspect that aperture might be important for daytime observing...

http://www.obs-bp.com/   

I'm lucky with my neighbours!

😁lly

 

Difficult one, wonder if exit pupil size matters too.

Alan

Anyone that has taken flats the old fashioned way during daylight will know that you can capture hundreds of stars if you forget the "T Shirt" 

Alan

I do like these videos, the £100 Jupiter challenge is worth watching too. Need a red bunny light now, has to be better than a fiddly red torch.

Alan

I get the feeling you realy like that tiny TAL..

Alan

Must be near a burial ground, lots of skulls to the left also. Looking at the main image again it does remind me of Santi Claws..

Alan

3 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

And cheap too

I know what my Celestron C90 can do so would love to own one of those Questars..

Alan

1 minute ago, vlaiv said:

Issue with Mak is that you really can't speed it up significantly. Well, maybe you can but we don't have adequate focal reducer available.

It is also baffled "tight" - illuminated field is not very great.

At 6" people might start to feel boxed in as that is already 1800mm of focal length.

C6 on the other hand can do planets. Maybe not as good as Mak150, but I don't think it will necessarily be much worse.

It can image planets - we know that most of planetary imaging is done on large cats.

One can purchase this:

https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p11425_Starizona-Night-Owl-2--0-4x-Focal-Reducer---Corrector-for-SC-Telescopes.html

and get F/4 imaging "machine" that can illuminate 16mm field - that means ASI183 and ASI533 on 6" aperture and 600mm FL - not bad.

It is extremely light scope at 3.7Kg - I bet it can be mounted on AzGTI.

If it was reasonably priced - I think it could do well as all around scope for beginners - but it is very expensive (not twice expensive in comparison to Mak150  like 5" counterparts - but still, quite expensive for 6" scope).

 

From memory the 90mm Questar Mak does things a little different, probably the best scope ever made, well to me anyway.

Alan

Thats scary, must be the Moon daemon..

Alan 

No idea but a 127 Mak is far superior to an equivalent SCT, things change after that...

Alan

Anyone else thinking, tectonic activity = heat =liquid water = life..

Alan

Thats beautiful, I do like single frames as they look so much more natural.

Alan

25 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

Thx.  Yes that was what i was hoping for.  A bit protection is fine for me. Im not that fanatic to go out in the rain i think. But should i go for pro models? To have longer cameralife?   I really have no idea what situations you can get in at night.  I  have seen some pictures of frozen equipment etc.  But drying electronics in the open indoor should do well i think?

I think you just have to cautious with any electronic kit in bad weather, as for the pro models they are only weather proof if using a pro L lens. There are lots of ways to minimize the effects of rain etc with suitable covers or even a plastic bag.

Alan

10 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

Oh so shouldnt trust this info anymore from versus.com.  I actually used it a lot for comparing.  Im going to look into its reliability.  Dont want to be surprised after buying it.  “Weerbestendig” is our word for weatherproof and “stof- en waterbestendig” is translated dust and waterproof.  But i will definately check some other sources after you provided Me other info.  Thx

The Canon 60D and 80D for that matter are weather sealed and considered dust and splash proof but dont offer quite the protection of the pro models.

Alan

Any laser below 5mW is considered "eye safe" in that your blink response will protect against any damage, our eyes are blasted by lasers at around 5mW  (infra red variety) every time we drive down a main road.

Alan

12 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

Ok.  Do you use one?  Do you suggest to search for a wireless one?  My first idea was, if canon never made a complete model, to look for wired.  Just because, batteries and a free hotshoe for a rdf maybe?!  Im not really fanatic on daytime photography so probably never gonna make a family-picture from a long distance.  Actually never make family-pictures anyway😬. And phones are always present for these unique moments

I did have a Giga T pro and it was great as you could program two sequences and link them but upgraded it, I wouldn't worry too much about wireless options as a cheap plug in will do most of what you need and pretty much compatible with any camera post 450D era.

Although I have the ability to use my camera via an app over wifi or a remote shutter system I still love my diy wired shutter release the best..

Alan

12 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

Yes so a remotecontrol is probably the best option.  I will look into the different given options then.  Unfortunately.  If canon didnt make a model with these features combined then there is no other way to buy one of the remotes.  The magic lantarn sounds familiar. Ill have a look ofcourse but when its capable of programming series of long exposure times then i guess any canon will have that option? Or are some models excluded?   And due to the lack of a list with dslr’s who have this option im still curious if someone can advice me.  Thx.  Dankjewel

I can only assume that the XXD and XD models are the ones that have made any attempt at an internal intervalometer, its worth noting that even expensive external options like the Giga T pro 2 cant do it all and still rely on some internal camera timer settings if you want to include mirror lock up for example into the sequence.

Alan

I dont think any Canon camera has the full capabilities of a standalone intervalometer built in, my Canon 80D has most of its features but not all although enough for time lapse/star trails etc.

You can use "Magic Lantern" firmware on some Canon cameras to expand the capabilities with its internal timer settings.

Alan

I would try and shoot at a lower ISO value, something like 400 or 800. Have a look at This information.

Alan

Another source of heat within a DSLR is the battery itself, this can be eliminated by using a battery grip or remote power with a dummy battery.

Alan

I am lucky in that we have a Moon in Leicester so plenty to look at/image...

Alan

As already said use liveview to focus then shoot subs in normal, I sometimes do this all over the inbuilt wi fi link but then switch to a Pluto trigger to take the images.

Alan