happy-kat

What LPS filter are you using and what bortle are your skies?

I've only tried in bortle 5 with no LPF and generally see some green in my wide field image.

My mobile device eats the fine wispy detail and eats stars regardless of the original file in viewing. Some of your image reduction may be out side of what you can control. 

This was the link

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/228101-the-no-eq-dso-challenge/page/1

You can use the astronomy tools on this site to see what field of view you would get with your telescope and camera you mention on the targets you are thinking of.

The mount will track objects but would need to work within it's capabilities as if the exposures are too long field rotation creeps in. 

There is a thread on imaging without an EQ mount and it's surprising what can be captured.

Could try video and get many more frames and stack using autostakkert and then sharpen the output image to taste. Can also video using EOS Utility on a laptop and 5x live view zoom for another option.

Hi

It's great to capture the Moon, it's hard to be steady by hand.

The focuser can be tightened by winding plumbing PTFE tape on it 

A quick time extender is out of card make a shroud for your lens, could just use rubber bands to keep it on, helps keep the dew away. 

DSS if you have 20+ lights then use kappa sigma clipping (helps remove planes etc.). 

who knew dust could create such great images, well done all

I'm using a different FF but I only got one filter into that adaptor. When I took an image with no FF and a DSLR curvature was pretty big and I do have after with the FF to see the difference, you could try without the FF and your OSC and see, I've only used my OSC with a FF I didn't take a before shot.

A popular choice for imaging deep space objects is a 135mm lens, a telescope gets you closer for observing but capturing is possible shorter and shorter still, longer is great on Moon planets and galaxies. For fun with just what you have now is combining landscape with startrails using a static tripod and wide lens.

Is it the camera you are using generating the square shape?

Autostakkert or registax process straight from the video to output a single image to tweak and sharpen

Video is better as get higher frame rate but I only had still frames taken on one night.

I've found it different and used registax for stacking the DSLR frames I had taken (it had been the Moon I had taken) though video is generally used.

What DSLR do you have?

If you adjusted the mount after you had polar aligned it then it could have moved off polar alignment. As the mount moves on the RA axis polar alignment is still key I think.

With the 1100d I use DSLR Controller on Android with the camera USB cable and an OTG cable to control and focus the camera using a mobile or tablet. If also using an intervalometer plug the connector in but don't connect the intervalometer until you're done using DSLR Controller which does actually have it's own time lapse tool.

As I use DSLR Controller app on the mobile I save the image locally and do a bigger pinch zoom to see the defraction spike to double check it

On a small 2" refractor I use a home made of stiff card a Lord Y mask with a camera this creates a strong spike. The canon 1100d I use I control by an Android mobile and get a bigger screen to focus with.

Thanks for this, I like the idea of a good comet

A camera flash hot shoe mounted red dot finder would help with pointing the camera.

Those stars are well shaped and quite a few lyrids caught, nice video. 

I also use the synscan dongle and in altaz mode (virtuoso mount).

Level tripod.

Point telescope North.

Telescope OTA must be level as in 0 degrees altitude.

Turn on mount.

I use a gain of 120 with 25 second exposures ASI462 allskeye and in Sharpcap pro when testing DSO was using gain 300 and 10 second exposures though I'd used the Brain feature and can't recall if the gain value was displayed on the gain slider.

I use allskeye on a 7' window 10 tablet lasts 4 hours on battery. I've not tried the asicap app for all sky camera options but for general use when I first had the ASI it worked fine. 25 seconds is what I used with the 462. Focus wasn't so easy to get right as I hadn't got a IRUV filter I could use with the lens.

Enjoy your darker sky trip

If you are taking raw files then post process for any colour adjustments, WB does not alter raw files in Canon.