happy-kat

As these are NC I would say eyeball is the way to go to find the most striking or just make a video of the lot.

And a run with no cooling and no filters to get a control point to compare

12 hours ago, vlaiv said:

Snip

Either all subs were captured on same side of meridian - or it's not dew/frost/sensor window related.

The reply to this post was that there had been no flip, so doesn't this mean that dew/frost/sensor is still in the probability pot for cause of the splodges? @vlaiv

Astap can plate solve and has a MAC version.

from my little googling when I choose Lithium LifePO4 it uses less precious metals has a good power curve takes x4 times as many charge cycles over it's life, I worked out the powertank 7ah I got would cost approximately 13p per charge for it's total life use.

As another idea could make a setting circle for your dob and add a wixey guage for altitude adjustment and create a different push-to solution

Hope you find something from them that helps you with your push-to idea. SkyEye also has push-to function, I have used the android app I don't know if also on iOS.

Various ideas on these threads might be useful

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/385606-any-commercially-available-cellphone-mount-to-ota/#comment-4163002

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/370560-skeye-app-as-a-pushto-finder/

Looks good. Lens is nice to the edges.

Wow what a view

Skip PIPP and go straight to either registax or astrostakker to stack and see what you get

I quite like the colour rendition.

you say partial eclipse does that  mean each frame was a different % of eclipse? in which case I don't think you would stack those together as the image content is moving. Do the individual dng files looks grey or pink?

Hi

With the Moon or planets the aim is to get as many frames as you can, by video or taking many stills. You can then stack them using something like registax or astrostakkert. These from the images or videos loaded take the best frames when atmospheric distortions are low to create a final image. This final image can then be further tweaked.

We are in BST now.

location is entered in degrees and minutes and not decimal and I think you would enter the longitude before the latitude.

If you haven't already unplug the power supply you are using 

I've seen on astrobin some pleasing galaxy image taken with a 61mm telescope and a planetary camera, I searched under ASI462MC as imaging camera. I go on if it pleases me that's all I aim for. 

(It's not necessarily a good approach, depends on what you are after and aim to achieve, or what may already own)

That's really good the speed it all happened, well done team NHS for resolving so quickly. I had the retina photos last year but will make a point to do that on next appointment.

I'd need to check but I think I've got HLVG working in GIMP

appears I do not so must have confused that with getting HLVG going in paintshopro and affinity, but have found something to try

Though your latest Moon is much clearer from your smaller stack then your starting Moon image and you've tried new techniques which you'll use again with bigger stacks or video.

23 minutes ago, Ade Turner said:

Ah, I didn’t pick that up, though mine is the 178MM mono. I’ll see if it does too. Thanks 🙂

The spec on FLO lists only an AR window on the MM 

Reading the spec on the 178MC it had an IR-cut window already

Doesn't the synscan pro app have a greater list of stars, throught I'd read that somewhere

The allske lens and the black bit left all remove from the ZWO but I think that leaves an M48 (2") sized hole

Have you tried with the black bit left when you removed the allsky lens also removed (it has two holes to help you turn and remove it). That leaves a female thread does that fit the thread on the end of the altair, maybe the hole is too big now on the ZWO? (Be careful to not hit the sensor) (You wouldn't use the nose piece)