happy-kat

filter is an idea for bringing out nebula isn't it could use with your 150p?

Mine fits on end I think, rather than inside. Perhaps it depends on how Nige attaches the camera, I use a t mount on my camera so any filter depth would not matter. Startools does have capable CA removal functions Steve Nickolls on here uses to great effect, but I guess an image will never be as sharp as one without CA to remove but StarTools does really well. Would be interesting to see results used with a good camera lens. For me it is what I like about my little refractor is for viewing the stars are so pin point.

Depends on how much movement you have in your focuser I thought you were out of any free length to be able to add a filter

Hope all turns out well Nige. Your 8SE mount Ian is at the better end of home altaz mounts I think.

the weight limits are for observing if you look at eq mounts they have an imaging weight limit often less than half that again. So your mount is doing great given your are using the full weight capability.

But then you rely on the quality of the lens to not introduce other abberations in the lens. The startravel refractors are not aimed at being perfect and might show other imaging issues. Luck of the draw. I will see if tomorrow I can find the post that talks about this.

The 130p-ds is a given performer. I have seen a stunning narrow band image from the ST120 but you will have CA to process out and you could have other lens abberations as well. But adding a field flattner to the p-ds makes the cost shoot up. Decisions. What about your target choices and imaging camera how does the fov compare. Both weigh 4 kilos. Refraction spikes or none.

Are you not tempted to do just one image so you get more data now that we are in summer?

When I use a puffer I hold the camera upside down and hope the dust actually falls out rather than lodges internally somewhere. I have also stuffed a golf tee in the rubber ball hole as this means i can use the blower to suck air off the sensor then puff the air away from the camera and repeat. Puffer = rocket blower (rubber balloon with nozzle) Do not use compressed air can

Interesting read. What does one of your 90s histograms look like? It might be that there is always a white out to the far right, or what does the histogram look like from a camera with a greater dynamic range maybe like a 5diii

75 second is better Be driven by the histogram. Raising the iso won't reveal what is not already being captured I don't think. Try it you have the gear it is just your time go try.

An ideal time to remind viewers these images did not involve an EQ mount :-)

I should add that since I did this I saw a member last week so a much better solution of a full 360 degrees around the outer edge of the top board.

Thank you @LeeRich and perhaps @Nigel G is best placed to comment on comparing those dimensions for the length of the shortened standard focuser. Edit: Can't recall if you changed the mirror bolts.

I didn't suggest the flexi 130p because the focuser is really not a good experience with a dslr hanging off it and the whole 70mm travel scope will be much easier to start with. Using a 1.6x shorty barlow means from memory I didn't need to drop the trusses but the helical is not easy to use or precise enough for dslr focusing. You'll need an EOS t ring and t mount to connect your 450d, I got mine from FLO. That's the cleanest of connections. There is a chance you will also need a 2inch 1.25 extension which FLO also now stock as you won't be using the diagonal. Edit: not sure what mount fixing the travel scope has but you may need something there. All my telescopes can fit on all my mounts they all have a built in dovebar. Edit 2: I use a skywatcher L bracket to mount my bits that have a camera thread.

Luke (Paui) you have the 70mm refractor, could stick just that on your SE mount (to get going with to start with) and put your 450d onto the refractor. Steve's images show you can reasonably process out any CA issue to be less noticeable StarTools has built in functions to help there. That would be were I'd start get a feel for it.

It is a fair comment to remind just how great the images are using the AltAz mounts and they aren't all the same mounts either though fashion a guess might all be made by Synita under the hood.

I have a barn door but I only post image from my altaz virtuoso on this thread, any other eq created image would be miss leading.

QM's blog goes back a while there's a link to the blog on the earlier post with the tweaks I think.

I thought the GSO unit looked shorter to start with then the kit focuser. Perhaps Lee could measure how long it is above the tube. This is a thread I wss after. link here

I don't see anything missing in the 150p images. (but I am only a fellow member browsing and enjoying other member's images I'm not anyone with any experience). Or identify what it is you want more off, is it a wider field of view, etc. What might improve the practical side what about a better focuser unit. Lee fitted a single speed GSO one to his Discovery 150p. You can pick up an ST80 or similar second hand for under £100. But that £100 could go towards a small corrected refractor. My simple take on looking at all the great images is size does not matter and just adds weight and ups the mount needs and pushes you off AltAz. Will your 200p on an EQ5 really be any better then what you are currently doing, probably not given the weight and possible thrown away subs from wind/wobble etc. There is an excelent blog thread by a member Qualia (heck hope someone corrects the name) on imaging with a 200p on an EQ5 and all the mods done to maximise what they managed to keep and not bin... but they moved on from that and got a bigger mount. If you haven't yet and going done the EQ road then have you read Making Every Proton Count. Edit: think I got the member name wrong currently ttrying to find the information. Got the Q right member is Quatermass link to a thread here

Herzy you have bought an eq mount an advanced VX which has totally different capabilities to what can be managed with an altaz mount on this thread. Which mount are you using to image?

When I see other mosiac work like on the 130P-ds thread the images are not taken on the same night but built from many sessions.

Some great new images. Ian with your last target and so close to the frame edge why not consider doing a two pane mosaic?

It was written by a user rather than Ivo I thought, though nothing wrong with that.