bomberbaz

Your dying to ask if it's for sale @John, just admit it 😅

Hello Cabstarman, few questions below. What are you wanting to view? Do you want widefield views? Do you wear glasses as these can be restrictive? Do you find your existing eyepieces uncomfortable to use from a certain focal length? What is your budget per eyepiece or total? The ETX80 is really not a very good scope for planetary, much better for widefield. So what are your intentions for this one? The 90 mak is a good scope for planetary. Although aperture will lower resolving of detail. Anyway, sorry to throw all those queries at you but when someone asks eyepiece advice unless you are more specific to your personal needs, budget and viewing aims it is hard to give more tailored advice. Steve

I have been using a crosshair for aligning my pushto for a long time now, always get it to within +/- 0.2 accuracy. My method is to use a telrad (RDF will do) to get your target star, then to the crosshair 9x50 finder scope to get it almost bang on and then use the crosshair to finalise alignment. FYI the whole process takes no more or less than using other methods in my opinion. It just works for me. The telrad is used as I don't always use the pushto and quite often will use the telrad + finder scope to find my object.

stated wieght is 4kg so yeah, as much as I would be happy going with. Much obliged. I think on reflection a 130 PDS is going to be the way to go, I will keep my eye on the 2nd hand market.

Erm I think I will stay with the OTA idea @vlaiv, not only is it easier for someone like me to get along with, but it can double for visual if required. I am going to have a good think and do more research on a 130 P-DS ota as it has got my interest now.

Would I achieve focus though or would I then need to start moving the focuser to achieve this or am I going to need to get a 130pds?

I wasn't familiar with this OTA but it does look a very good option. Thanks 👍 Steve

I am weight limited Peter, a 5" mak/sct, 5" reflector or 80mm refractor is my limit I am afraid. However I was aiming at lower weight for better stability, hence the 72ED query.

You can see that a 72ED and 224 give a pretty good FOV and a bigger chip is probably not really needed.

DSO work Peter. I love planetary visual but I want to get more detail out of DSO which your eye simply cannot pickup. Steve

COPIED FROM EEVA DISCUSSIONS - EEVA EQUIPMENT Been thinking of upgrading my eeva gear. It is apparent to me that the current set up isn't hitting the mark. Trying to use a spotter frac with the ZWO 224MC isn't working at all. First I can't get to focus without a barlow and then the barlow reduces the already small fov to levels where resolution and resolving anything but the moon starts to get awkward. I am often caught preaching that one shouldn't cut corners on visual and one size doesn't fit all and yet here I am trying to do exactly that. So I was thinking of getting a camera with a larger chip + better resolution and also a dedicated refractor (unless there is a better idea) to use with it. Problem is budget. Initially I was thinking around 500 quid but soon realised that wasn't quite enough. However after doing research and reading various forum/reviews I came to this solution. Skywatcher 72ED/ F5.8 - ZWO ASI 178 USB3 Camera - Maybe a Antares 0.7 focal reducer. (Not sure about this as need to confirm it will achieve focus with this in place) Price about £600. UPDATE to the above: Having done a little extra research I am not convinced I require a new camera so I am having second thoughts about the upgrade, however I think the OTA is something that definitely needs upgrading. So looking for any feedback on whether the above setup is a realistic one that will provide decent results for eeva. TIA Steve

Been thinking of upgrading my eeva gear. It is apparent to me that the current set up isn't hitting the mark. Trying to use a spotter frac with the ZWO 224MC isn't working at all. First I can't get to focus without a barlow and then the barlow reduces the already small fov to levels where resolution and resolving anything but the moon starts to get awkward. I am often caught preaching that one shouldn't cut corners on visual and one size doesn't fit all and yet here I am trying to do exactly that. So I was thinking of getting a camera with a larger chip + better resolution and also a dedicated refractor (unless there is a better idea) to use with it. Problem is budget. Initially I was thinking around 500 quid but soon realised that wasn't quite enough. However after doing research and reading various forum/reviews I came to this solution. Skywatcher 72ED/ F5.8 - ZWO ASI 178 USB3 Camera - Maybe a Antares 0.7 focal reducer. (Not sure about this as need to confirm it will achieve focus with this in place) Price about £600. UPDATE to the above: Having done a little extra research I am not convinced I require a new camera so I am having second thoughts about the upgrade, however I think the OTA is something that definitely needs upgrading. So looking for any feedback on whether the above setup is a realistic one that will provide decent results for eeva. TIA Steve

googled lens plural, what a tin of worms that is 😅

Some other ideas from myself, mr nibble and fozzybear in this thread .

My conservatory has a solid ceiling installed, not really a conservatory anymore . The temperature gradient in the room is dramatically less now as a result. It has become the preferred room of habitation

Not surprised at that price, real bargain

At last w have found a conservative spender 😂

Oh and I will be 8 (years a member) in November, it all started from the charity auction buy of a celestron 130 EQ, and it's not stopped costing me since, haha

That's some buttering up if ever i read it Ruud 😉😄

https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=164056 £125, that's a good price if anyone is after one. Steve

Personally I would go for either the astronomik UHC or baader's uhc-s filter. They are both excellent filters but the baader is more broad in it's light cut so may give you brighter results in a 130. A quick what they do is to cut out light you don't want to see and allow light that will help you see nebula better. That is the simplest explanation.

Nice scope, it was my first. Quick tip, the 25mm eyepiece is quite decent and easy to use, the 10mm is not so easy to get along with and some people struggle with eye placement. However using the barlow increases the power of the 20mm to 10mm s0 you can use the same eyepiece for both magnifications. 33x and 66x.

This si the one https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-150p-dobsonian.html

I have refused to house any of my gear in the (small what's left of the) garage for fear of damp/condensation, insects/slugs etc or possibly even vermin getting into the scope and causing big problems. All my stuff is stored in the conservatory but if/when I get my new shed I shall store mount/tripod equipment out there. The current 10" dob is soon to go and Mrs Bomber Baz is over the moon with this news with this revelation, which is great for me because she didn't bother asking about the cost of the replacement, so lost was she in the euphoria 😂 My new , still to arrive truss dob will be stored in an outside office (other part of the converted garage) as this is heated, sealed and used regularly.

Thanks for the reply, it was more or less as I expected. I think the thing here is with barlow, powermates and the focal train overall is to experiment and see which gives you the best outcome in terms of what I as an individual like. Things like vignetting are unlikely to be a concern for visual planetary but might be if I decide to stick a ZWO camera in for a few planetary shots. Being f10 and above does help me here as I have a little more flexibility and I have a box full of extension tubes so we shall see how I get on. Thanks.