alan potts

13 hours ago, Xsubmariner said:

  Have you tried re-drying the desiccant, if not that would be my first option. There is a link in the manual to guide the process.  Good luck with the camera, they are a great CMOS camera, mine had to be sold to help fund an IMX455 based unit.

No I haven't tried that as the humidity here is so low at this time of year at 30% or so. I will look into it though. It is not the first time I have had this but before I would have thought it was clearly ice. After 22 days of rain in June it was not there abut the sun has shone mainly since. Think I need to be having an in depth look at it. Only just done the flats too, more messing about once I take it off.

Alan

9 minutes ago, Xsubmariner said:

My first thought was icing or condensation, have you tried desiccating the camera. My first generation ASI 071 used to show this type of effect.

 

This is a 071 but I believe it is the 2nd gen model, it is 2 years old. It is permanently on the scope and the inside observatory temperature will be about 40C. I don't see how it could be ice as I have said but it could be condensation. I must go out and have a look see if I can see anything on the chip. Maybe I will slow down the cooldown and also try a shot before any cooling. I have only seen it for the last two weeks or so but much the same each night.

Alan 

4 minutes ago, astro mick said:

Thats exerllent Alan,your being far too hard on yourself.

I too dont have cooled cmos,but use an old DSLR for these wide shots,and the noise is hopeless in summer.

I,d be happy with this image.

Mick.

I never think I am hard on myself, I look at what some of you do and think, if only. Standards are very high from so many of you, including you. Thanks for the kind words Mick

Alan 

Along the bottom edge I have been getting a funny pattern, I thought this was icing as I have had it before though the camera was set at plus 4 C as it was 32C outside air temp, how can it be ice?

It has not been stretched at all.

Alan

I know this is fairly bright but i was surprised how well it turned out (for me) with only 80mins of subs, then a few were dropped by DSS. When ever I turn the scope to this area of the shy I always wish I was in Kenya or somewhere like that for the targets to be higher in the shy, even though I am better off than the UK

Feel free to rip it to bits, if anyone wants the data to play with drop me a PM, Not that I think it's good but it is nice for people that don't have CMOS cameras to have a play, I can upload the RAW.

Alan.

Many congratulations John you contribution is amazing and they are to the best of my knowledge all quality posts helping young and older members navigate a sometimes difficult hobby, well done Sir!!

Alan

7 hours ago, Ouroboros said:

Thanks all. I’m thinking that in order to get the right back focus (55mm when using the reducer on my ED80) it might be best to use a 21mm filter draw in place of the 21mm spacer. Would that be right? 

Whereas just adding the filter to the exit of the reducer will add a few mm to the back focus distance. Does that have to be catered for by using shorter spacers? Or isn’t it that critical? 

21mm filter draws are available and now I believe FLO stock them by ZWO, so all should be well, I was not so lucky I got a different make as ZWO didn't make them a few years back, mine was a fair bit more costly.

Alan

I have mine on the front of the field flattener and in truth didn't think it mattered that much. When I use the reducer/flattener it has a filter draw after the reducer. This is then in a different place, can't say I see any difference apart from the extra FOV.

Alan

That's a s good as any I have seen, it is a camera I would like to get soon, I have the 071 and it's about time to upgrade.

Alan

Some lovely sketches there. I must ask about M14, this is one that I always feel resolves into stars at a decent magnification but you don't draw it as such. You had some decent clear nights too. What you didn't get is a clear night after rain, that is when we get best conditions and I feel you would have improved on what you had, on these nights you can see m33 fairly easily if it is high up.

On the mirror dust, this tends to happen in the house too, the dust sticks.

Alan

Stunning, best I have ever seen of this one, Olly always said the TEC 140 was one heck of a scope.

Alan

Still a very nice image though isn't it, I dare say if you could lift the M/N above the atmosphere it may well improve on this.

Alan

I have moved this as I feel you will get a better response in the scopes section, I left a link as well.

Alan

Lovely capture, I rather like the patchwork presentation to, very well done.

Alan

I have done it in the past with my 115mm APO and my M/N 190, but with the star 23 degrees above the horizon, much easier than in the Uk. Conditions are everything with this and of course Sirius.

Alan

A stunning image but if I may say over saturated for my tastes, great detail that I feel could be better if toned down.

Alan

I agree with Carole, superb for a Dob.

Alan

That's rather lovely, like very much the way the star has come out, great capture.

Alan

Superb, always a pleasure to view your work.

Alan

That is about the best image I have seen of anything, truly stunning.

Alan

Moved this for you in an effort to get you some feed-back,

Alan

Always a pleasure to view your stunning images, something of a shame you have to stop due to lack of darkness. Although days are very short in winter I imagine the weather is less friendly. Been poor here for a while not much clear at all.

Alan

Never tried them myself but the Starguiders from FLO have many fans and have been written about but a lot of people on site with their many names. Lots of bang for the buck in these as a beginner I don't see you will go wrong with this choice.

Alan 

I read you need a 36 inch scope to view this so there are some that have Dobs of this size but few and far between, I have tried it with my 18 inch but like everyone else no joy, Sirius is fairly easy from here on a good night but it is a good deal higher in the sky than the UK.

Alan

My understanding of it is the masters are the collection of frames. For example I shoot about 25 Darks at a given temperature with the camera then the same number of Flats and Dark Flats. After that I just use the masters every time. I only redo them if I move the camera in the telescope.

Going back to the days where i just used  a Canon 40D and 7D you can't control temperature, some do shoot Darks after sessions though I never bothered, I never bother shooting Flats etc no matter what the temperature though a dare say the purist would say you should. I think the only reason no one answered is that it got buried in the pile, it happens, hope my limited expierence is of some use.

Alan