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oymd

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Everything posted by oymd

  1. I redid my flats yesterday.... I think its a better result now?
  2. Here is my second attempt last night...possibly a little better..
  3. Good afternoon everyone... M101, 30 120s Light subs, 150 flats, 150 dark flats & 30 darks. ED80 & ASI294MC Pro I think its better than my first..
  4. I will try and fit the SW 0.85reducer tomorrow night if clear. can I please check regarding cal ration frames? if I fit the reducer tomorrow, and redo the targets I took over the past week, and I keep all my settings the same, temperature, exposure time etc, DO I NEED TO REPEAT THE DARKS, FLATS AND DARK FLATS with the reducer attached? or I can use my existing MASTER calibration frames that were taken WITHOUT the reducer and stack them with the NEW Light subs taken with the reducer?
  5. My gear is AZEQ6 Pro, ED80 and ASI294MC Pro. I have the 0.85 SW reducer, but have never tried it yet, as I am just getting into imaging, and do not want to mess up my imaging train until I get some more experience. I posted over the past few days some good first results, but they were all 30 second subs. I wanted to push the sub duration a little to see if that allows more data collection. I really did struggle with the FOCUS AID in APT. Pretty sure it’s my lack of understanding. I ended up putting the bhatinov mask back in and manually adjusting focus. Could not get my head around FVMH and LWH, or whatever they are called!
  6. Afternoon everyone Yesterday I did some experimenting with the FOCUS. I use a Bhatinov mask, and in Live View in APT, I focus and fix the focus knob. A member here on the forums advised me to use the FVMH option in APT, and I tried it yesterday. After intial manual focusing with the Bhatinov mask, I took it off, then tried the FVMH option. I simply found it very fiddly, and did not fully understand it? On ARCTURUS, it kept jumping arounf 19.00 to 21.00, and when I tthough I got the smallest possible figure, when I applied the focus fix thumbscrew, it would start playing arounf again? Even without touching the focuser, the number would not be steady? SO I chose in Liveview a dimmer star, and still numbers would not be steadt, hovering around 2.50 to 3.00? Live view was looping at 2 seconds at 1/4 exposure. So, I chose Bhatinov Aid in APT, and that seemed easier, and I got the message IN FOCUS. I then went on to image M63: 44L 90 seconds, 30D also at 90 seconds, 30F & 30DFs I do not think the result is good? Looks like I was out of focus? Or is it that I took 90 second exposures WITHOUT GUIDING?
  7. This was my very first attempt at DSOs. M81 & M82 Taken on 23rd March 2020. This is the results of 3 15 second unguided subs of M81 & M82. ASI294MC Pro on ED80. Had no idea then how to do calibration frames. I was blown away by just seeing anything on the screen!
  8. ZWO ASI 290MM Mini guiding camera
  9. well, it would make sense that with higher end mounts the encoders would also be higher spec...no? i think I read somewhere that the encoders used by AP are the top end ones... I think they are called “Reninshaw” pretty sure I got that name wrong...
  10. Very nice Mike i too like the M3 Much better than my first attempt last week Can you share your subs duration etc? Were you guiding? I’ve also started imaging just a week or so ago, with a 294MC Pro. Haven’t tried Pixinsight yet, but would like to give it a go. Can you point me towards AlexAstro’s guide?
  11. If I got that right, are you suggesting that not all encoders are equal in their precision? that is, encoders on say an IOptron CEM25P EC would be less precise than the ones on a CEM120EC, which would be less precise than those on Astrophysics and Paramount mounts etc? the more expensive mounts would have a higher number of clicks/counts etc?
  12. Good afternoon everyone Tuesday night was crystal clear... I aimed for the Pinwheel Galaxy, M101 100 subs, 30 seconds each, Unguided. No guide camera yet, so keeping exposure times low. Stacked in DSS, and some basic processing in GIMP. Still learning the ropes, and very keen on feedback and comments... Ossi
  13. Many thanks for that. Can you please explain what you mean by: "always approach final focus from the same direction"? I do not get that? Also, do you know which direction does the mirror mover with clockwise and anticlockwise rotations? Would like to know which direction moves the mirror backwards? Many thanks Ossi
  14. One last question please How does the Croyford Focuser play with the Celestron f/6.3 reducer? Can they work together? Many thanks
  15. Does that imply that an anti clockwise turn moves the mirror BACKWARDS towards the rear cell?
  16. Agreed, but its much more stout and hefty. What I meant with the moonlite is that it's quite slim and sticks out, and always felt its a breakage hazard when carrying around
  17. Never liked that option. It sticks out of the OTA so far back, and makes packing the OTA in the carry bag a nightmare. Possibly on a permanent setup, but not when I need to pack the C11 after every session.
  18. So in your opinion will not really help with bypassing the 1ry mirror focusing?
  19. That looks very smart! Are they identical!? wow...one goes for £140 & the other for £90??!! So, do you move your primary mirror all the way back, and rely on the crayford to achieve focus? Did you try imaging etc?
  20. Many thanks, will give it a try tonight. Do you know if adding the Crayford Focuser might be detrimental to imaging? I remember I read somewhere that it will significantly lengthen the FL of the scope beyong F10? I plan to use the F6.3 reducer as well, so hope this will work? Even if I do not fix the mirror flop issue, I would rather bypass the focus knob, as it is not fine enough for subtle adjustments to focus.
  21. oh...nice trick will give it a try Do you know which way should I turn the knob to wind the mirror back? Should I go clockwise or anticlockwise? I do not think there is a way I can know by myself?
  22. Thanks Dave What do you mean by "You could jig it up to see if focus is achievable before buying focuser" Sorry, did not get that?
  23. Good morning everyone I am hoping for some advice regarding my devious plan... I have acquired a C11 XLT OTA a couple of months ago, and only stated using it regularly over the past few days. Focusing on it is really hard, but achievable. I have noticed that whenever I slew to a target at a HIGHER altitude, the stars get slightly out of focus, and I need to refocus? Is this what is called "Mirror Flop", which is inherent to the design of the SCTs, fixed with the lockable mirror in the newer Edge HD models? Would getting a Dual-Speed 2" Crayford Focuser for SCT Telescopes, like this one over come this problem, and also help with imaging when I attach a ZWO camera? My thinking is that I would drop the mirror using the focus knob all the way to the back of the SCT, so it cannot sag anymore, and achieve focus with the Crayford focuser? Is that achievable, or is it being done already routinely, and I am just late to the party? Many thanks Ossi
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