haitch

Looks like 5 to me but hard to be sure. What’s it off? in the absence of anything definitive I’d try it at 0.75. have you got either T2 or M48 thread you could put up against it to see if it meshes? They’re both 0.75

If that M48? If so I'm fairly sure the pitch is 0.75 off the top of my head

If any of the STLs for those would be useful to you let me know and I'll ping them across. The lens adaptor is in PETG which is the cause of it looking a bit hairy. I've just come out of my PETG phase and moved on to ABS which I'm finding less frustrating though still more tricky than PLA. The nastiest stuff to try and print is TPE (flexible) - I've been pulling what hair I've got left out over that.

I can quite easily print t threads and M48 threads on my Ender 3 - I've managed to make an adaptor to fit my Hypercam 269c onto 6.5mm Ef-m lens with the metal camera attachment bit removed (only way to get the backfocus), a baader ufc compatible filter drawer threaded for 2" filters and even Ef to Ef-m adaptor with a built in filter drawer so I can use my STC dual band filter with my 20-200 f2.8L on my Canon M50. (I use Tinkercad btw)

Some of it's brethren... http://ensoptical.co.uk/circle-t If you look at the 25mm Ortho on there it's got the stamp on the barrel like yours but the 9mm they've got has a sticker on the barrel - I think that's just down to when it was produced

Looks like a Circle T - if that's a T in a circle on the chrome barrel... and yes, it's an Orthoscopic

I've got a friend in Burntwood with a 20" 😮

Cycle past your way quite frequently then. Quite a strong local astro community. There's Wolverhampton. Walsall and Rosliston Astro Societies all local once lock down is over and we can meet up again. I'm up the road in Brownhills. Light pollution has got pretty bad here over the years so I'm starting to get more into imaging but I still drag the 14" dob out once in a while.

It makes me think "Fisher Price... My First Imaging Rig" 🤣

Pleased with my Ender 3 too - PLA works out of the box and, as I keep it in one place, bed levelling isn't an issue. Other materials can be hard work - PETG can be a bit annoying if it has a large base due to warping and if you don't get the temp right stringing is annoying but TPE (and I imagine any flexible) is the hardest thing I've come across to try to print with so far.

You should be ok with after sales then. How are you finding that model (aside from the MoBo problem)?

Mognet, which model? Where did you buy it from out of interest? I got my Ender 3 from Technology Outlet and when the extruder drive arm broke they sent me a whole new assembly without quibble.

Definitely less heat as batteries generate heat in use so moving it outside the camera will reduce heat inside the camera body. Also when I'm doing widefield I use a 20Ah phone charger pack (I've found Anker ones reliable - all our family use that brand) with 2 power outs which will power the camera and lens dew heater all night. I then use a 10Ah 12v Tracer battery for my Astrotrac. So yeah... a few cables.

It may have already been picked up but you are using a DSLR use an external battery, such as a dummy battery that will run off a usb power pack, to take one source of heat noise out of the camera.

Yeah just noticed the gear - 2m f/l (or even with a reducer) on a fully loaded Eq5 is more than pushing it unless you go down the hyperstar route.

That's it - you can choose the exposure length and the interval to the second. Yes - you can set number of images or let irt run indefinitely (so long as you have the power to keep going. You can also have a delay before first shot and start the sequence when you leave menu or on half shutter press or full shutter.

For anyone still in any doubt on the ML front, my 600D set for intervalometer timing of 3 minutes 10 secs with an exposure length of 3 minutes...

Look up Magic Lantern firmware for Canon DSLRs it has an intervalometer built in as well as some other neat functions such as increasing gain of the liveview screen

Sorry - just clocked it... Tony

Lol - I just got a notification of a post on this thread. Hi DT8691 (is there something less formal I can call you?) That (if you didn't know is a refractor. Depending on the diameter of the lens (it usually has it one side too) it is either a 120 or 150 which, apart from the colour schemes are near identical scopes to the Skywatcher Evostar 120 & 150 https://www.firstlightoptics.com/evostar/skywatcher-evostar-150-ota.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/evostar/skywatcher-evostar-120-ota.html What bits do you need?

Actually, easy enough to check - does that spindle turn at the same rate as the knob at the other end?

Like he says, I think on that model the spindle runs all the way through. On some WO focusers I've seen the dual speed has a second smaller spindle that runs between some ball bearings in a planetary fashion but that looks different. You can probably take the rest of the knob off but I don't think the spindle is going anywhere.

Lol - once I'm totally 100% happy with it I shall probably publish the files so anyone can print it. The drawers are compatible with the Baader UFC system but somewhat cheaper at a few pence worth of plastic than the thirty odd quid a drawer (which is why I initially designed my drawer). I have the Baader filter drawer for my C11 & Hyperstar so this means I can have one set of filters and use them on everything and mine even have the holes to fit the little magnets that keep them in place.

Sorry you mentioned the backfocus - I 3d printed my own adaptor with the drawer built in

and you can get an ef-m to Ef adaptor with a reducer built in (search for Viltrox speed booster) - not had chance to use that for astro yet but the terrestrial shots I've took seem promising