Vinnyvent84

Thanks for the info! So I understand the gain; and u understand the clipping part but forgive me for sounding dumb I’m totally clueless in regard to “aim for 3000 ADU average”. What exactly is that and how would I determine that I’m averaging that 3000 number?

Awesome thank you so much that’s great info I’m going to do some searches this evening!

John, thank you so very much. This is extremely helpful. I have ALOT to learn and my gear gets here on Monday. I have a ASI533MC and am pairing it with a Redcat 71 WIFD ASIair Plus and AM5. Your information most definitely helps. Im currently trying to research how long my sub exposures need to be considering I’m in a Bortle 8 and using OSC. This, along with many other things - but you now scratched one concern off my list so thank you again!

Hey all, forgive me if this is a silly question…. I’m trying to get started soon with taking a shot at AP. My limited knowledge is that when it comes to darks you can make a library of those generally refreshing every 3-6 months or as needed. And the remainder of calibration frames must be done on a per session bases. In addition from what I understand - you cannot touch the imaging train in anyway in relation from when you take the calibration frames to doing the actual imaging run. So for example if I was taking flats - I would not be able to alter or touch the imaging train in any way as that may move around dust and render the flats useless? If this is the case how do things work in relation to a filter wheel? I have read people taking alternating subframes between different filters when doing mono for example. Does the rotating of the filter wheel not constitute “touching” the imaging train during a session? I would think that just the movement of the wheel could introduce new dust or relocate existing dust particles if your bouncing between filters on the wheel from frame to frame? I’m I understanding this incorrectly?

Hey everyone, maybe someone has some ideas on what’s causing this. I’m using Sharpcap Pro on a Beelink SE12; the computer is brand new essentially. About a week ago I tried doing some lunar imaging using my ASI533MC. I know this is a DSO camera but I figured couldn’t hurt. When I took a 2 min clip and tried to load it into AutoStakkert it generated some weird banding as seen below. I tried to tweak my exposure to 7ms and have auto white balance on. Biggest ROI for the camera. I don’t know or think the camera is broken because I took it outside during the day and no issues. I also changed the USB cable. Today I tried again 3 more times. Can you all take a look and give me your thoughts as to the issue? Thanks in advance.

Absolutely not. My goal was never to insinuate this setup is better or superior in any way to other setups. In fact I understand it’s a bit like using a howitzer to kill a gnat. The routers for outside needed to be purchased anyway for other home automation needs. My goal was only to have a wireless connection from the scope / mount and the laptop. I have a son who is 4 and autistic and love everything space & planets. The less dangling wires outside he can trip over when he’s with me the better. In addition, if the laptop is not hardwired to the scope I could then bring it inside for him to see the livestacking and/or EAA images. So I figured if I put a headless mini PC onto the OTA then connect from the OTA to the handset (I purchased a 3D holder to switch it to the Evo’s handle rather then the tripod leg to eliminate cord wrap concerns), camera to the mini pc and focus motor / starsense plugged into the mount then I would only have a single power cord to the mini PC (Evolution mount has a internal battery). I just didn’t know what mini PC would be capable enough or if my logic wouldn’t work with my desired intentions.

So honestly I despise the handset. I find its menu navigation and usage archaic and clumsy. Even though CPWI isn’t exactly state of the art (UI wise) it at least lets me use my Xbox remote to skew the scope with the left joystick and control the focus motor with the right joystick. Way finer control and more comfortable (and familiar). The WiFi is downright abysmal. I literally went out and bought a TP-Link Dece mesh system and specifically a Deco X50 outdoor mesh router to use only for my scope and Astro laptop. I was able to prioritize the scope in the TP-Link settings and force both the scope and laptop to only use 2.4 band (Evo only does 2.4) so that the laptop never wavered off looking for the best signal. The outdoor router is no more than 15 or so feet from the scope and most I ever got without a disconnect is 50-60 minutes. It doesn’t even auto reconnect. You literally have to shutdown and reconnect, sometimes multiple times. I was looking to mitigate the number of wires running from the scope and not use the HC. I know I’ll never do astrophotography of DSO’s in a Bortle 8 backyard with a 8 SCT but my thought process was as follows: If I preconfigure a headless PC and strap it to be remote controlled I can then connect my starsense auto align to the mount, Celestron focus motor to the mount, Camera to the the mini PC I can either remote in wirelessly using RDP. I can also use Ethernet if I choose since many have said remote RDP over wireless has to much delay to properly focus for planetary imaging. this in turn minimizes cable management and provides me with a solid WiFi 6 signal with WAY better range and less / no dropouts. does that make sense?

Hey all. I have an Evolution 8 SCT and have quickly come to realize how horrific the Wifi is; regardless if using the Celestron connection or in Access Point mode. Therefore I was thinking of getting a Mini-PC to bypass this mounted on top of my scope. I bought a Handcontroller bracket that clips on to the Evolutions Handle and if I can have a new bracket made to hold both this mini-pc and the HC that would be great or I can mount it on top of the scope. In my mind - by doing this I get Wifi 6 capability which bypasses Celestrons antenna. Connect this Mini-PC to the HC, connect my Planetary Camera (ZWO ASI678MC) to the mini PC and than just run an HDMI to my laptop acting as a monitor / keyboard. Does this make sense to everyone here or am I crazy? I found this mini-pc and its attractive due to its small size and minimal weight. Just unsure if its powerful enough to run CPWI, Sharpcap and the Planetary camera without worrying about frame loss in my planetary imaging or freeze ups on the mini pc. mini pc: https://www.amazon.com/GMKtec-Office-Mini-Computers-N100/dp/B0C9CDZV6N?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1 Any advice or help would be great!

Couldn’t I theoretically used a DC to USB step up cable into the Evo mount for the plus? such as the one in the link below? https://www.ledsupply.com/accessories/usb-step-up-converter-12v-dc#:~:text=USB ports within computers%2C batter,5.5mm DC barrel jack.

Good day everyone! looking for some guidance here please. I have a Celestron Nexstar Evolution 8 telescope and want some advice about the USB port on the mount. I am currently thinking of getting an ASIAir Plus. The easy factor and speed a very appealing as I am new if I just want to start out doing planetary images, EAA and regular visual observation. If I decide to get it I am thinking of returning my celestron focus motor and swapping for the ZWO EAF. Still seriously considering this but before I decide I wanted to know about powering it. is it possible to use the USB on the Evolution mount to power the ASIair Plus and then subsequently plus my ASI camera and focus motor into the ASI plus? If it’s even possible I know it will greatly reduce the Evolutions battery life but honestly even if I can push 3 or 4 hours instead of 10 that would be fine. Thanks in advance for any advice (on any of these pending decisions as well)!

Thank you both! I actually had a question pop in my head. When using the astronomy.tools FOV calculator I noticed the 678 camera for example - displays Jupiter in a smaller view then going a 224mc camera with a 2x Barlow or the suggested 585 with a 1.5x Barlow. I know you have to do that computation to determine what or if a Barlow is best compared to scope and pixel size but I am more interested in capturing shots that are larger then a tiny little dot. Is this something you address through cropping later without loosing detail? Or something when you set the smaller ROI while recording which “zooms” it in? I definitely don’t want a larger but really blurry image either so just not sure if this is something you address through software to do it correctly or through a Barlow ?

Ok so if i may ask you both because i didnt hit the purchase button yet - if you had to make a choice and say "best planetary and lunar images you could get" as priority one and decently distant second priority being capturing DSO's what camera would you go with the ZWO 678 or ZWO 585? The pricing seems about $100 difference so wont make or break me either way in that regard...i just fear getting degraded planetary / lunar pics for the sake of DSO's (which is harder for me to capture anyway due to the LP and seeing conditions where I live). If you think the 585 would capture the same quality planetary and lunar pics (or maybe better?) I will have no issue getting that one (along with 1.5 barlow as mentioned). i just fear 585 is getting jack of all trades master of none?

Gotcha, and it definitely makes sense. Honestly the mount made sense due to my specific situation. I read EQ mounts are MUCH harder to get setup and ready to go - due to me living in NYC I can’t just leave the mount out in my yard after observing / using it. I have to bring it downstairs in my den from my yard after each use. Between that, the bigger size and weight moving it every time and the cost being substantially more then even the scope itself I held off on getting an upgrade. I did see those new ZWO AZ mounts requiring no counterweights and less bulky but my lord they start at 2k! In my mind it felt wrong spending 2k to mount a 6SE scope, in a light polluted / generally poor seeing conditions area to boot.

Thank you both. I’m going to play my order for the camera tonight. You both may know this… I read that I may need to use my diagnol (Baader prism) in order to achieve clearance to the base when approaching zenith. so optimal setup if I understand would be scope, focal reducer, camera. BUT I wouldn’t be able to do that and would need to keep my diagonal in place resulting in scope, focal reducer, diagnol, camera ?

Thanks for explaining Peter! lol now I’m just nervous that I got a subpar scope & mount that doesn’t seem capable of much 🤯