MessierMatt

I’m slowly working my way through the brightest DSO’s when the skies allow and focused in on M27 on Friday. Despite the 98% moon and some patchy high cloud I was really happy to be able to view and shoot this target for the first time. I am still learning the best settings for DSS and Rawtherapee so would really appreciate any feedback.

I took 750 lights and stacked the best 80% leading to 608 images, I shot at 25600iso (I am finding I need to use a higher iso to pull enough data when using this untracked set up). I used two different exposure lengths at 0.6s and 0.8s which I can see has left some trailing. 
I stacked using Mosaic mode but unsure if I should be doing this.

I then processed in RawTherapee.

Equipment used; Canon 800D, Skywatcher Explorer 150p, EQ3 mount.

Thanks for reading. 

@imakebeer sorry, thought by giving a link to the Tiff files, you guys could look at the photos with all the data. Below are the JPEGS. 

E24062B4-6ED9-464A-9D3D-FE56BB7B7D84.tiff

On 24/05/2023 at 23:05, Albir phil said:

Hi nice image.if you can track with the mount you have and if you're polar aligned you could do 30 sec exposures.this will give you much more information in the image.longer ex are better than many shot one's.Good luck with your imaging 

Unfortunately no tracking mount yet hence the number of lights at short exposures. Thanks for the feedback. 

Fab shot of the Owl Nebula. Great clarity in the uncropped image. 

Love this. I managed my first image over the weekend. A really interesting target. 

I’m still practising with my current set up and loving the learning curve. Randomly decided to aim for the Owl Nebula over the weekend and amazied at the results! It is really tempting to overprocess and I’m trying to keep the colours as ‘natural’ as possible.

Untracked, Skywatcher 150p explorer, 291 lights at 0.6s, no darks or bias, Canon 800d. 
Loving the challenge and results. 

11 hours ago, michael8554 said:

Hi Matt

0.5secs at ISO12800 shouldn't show drift, so I would look at collimation.

And then try longer exposures until you do see drift.

Michael

Thanks @michael8554 I will defo check the collimation. 

This is amazing.  I know I cannot get anywhere near this with my set up but very inspiring.

Hi Everyone.

I am hoping for some advice around the processing of my untracked image of M51.

Skywatcher 150P

Canon 800D

371 Lights (No darks or bias)

25600iso

0.4s exposure time.

Dropbox link for tiff file below.

M51 15,5,23.TIF (dropbox.com)

Cropped and slightly processed to bring out the detail.

M51 15,5,23 cropped .TIF (dropbox.com)

I am currently using DSS and RawTherapee.

@AstroMuni thanks for the feedback.  I have moved to 0.4 single exposure time which has reduced the elongation a little.  I'm also sure collimation is not spot on and am still practicing with this.

3 hours ago, michael8554 said:

Hi Matt

"a dedicated planetary camera is better suited due to the smaller sensor size".

Dedicated planetary cameras are preferred because they provide high framerate uncompressed video.

The sensor size doesn't matter, so long as it's larger than the focused image.

"DSLRs aren't suited for planetary as you say one the main issues is that their sensors are large,........................ a large planet like Jupiter will look tiny so the sensor won't be capturing any detail."

Lets compare a planetary camera with 3.75um pixels, and a DSLR with 3.75um pixels.

Crop the DSLR image to the same size as the planetary camera's sensor, you end up with two identical images with the same resolution.

In fact that's one way you can use your DSLR to do planetary, using Liveview 5x Video mode, or Crop Video mode:

https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html

The main advantage of a DSLR is that finding the planet with the large sensor is so much easier than trying to "thread the needle" with a tiny 1/3" sensor.

Michael

 

Thanks @michael8554 . So actually trying to image planets by using a Barlow and dslr is not recommended and therefore buying an upgraded Barlow or x3 is not needed as through capturing the live x5 video feed is more effective. I’ve read a few articles on this and am aware I need dedicated software and a laptop linked to the camera. 
I was under the impression that by using a x3 Barlow the planet image would hit more pixels on the dslr sensor hence improving details. Is this the case?

thanks for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate everyone’s responses. 

1 minute ago, Elp said:

Though it's possible, DSLRs aren't suited for planetary as you say one the main issues is that their sensors are large, if you look at astronomy.tools website you can see for yourself if you input your setup numbers even if that fov calculator is just a guide, a large planet like Jupiter will look tiny so the sensor won't be capturing any detail.

Your second problem with planetary is atmospheric conditions on earth or where you are. If you look visually via an eyepiece you can see this yourself, the target will appear to wobble come into focus suddenly then blur, this is atmospheric seeing at play. Good planetary images are made via hundreds/thousands of images captured per session within a space of a minute or a handful of minutes, then sorted via software like autostakkert then only a minor percentage of the best frames are used and stacked. A DSLR is not capable of capturing quick enough and at a constant rate, even whilst in video mode, hence why planetary cameras are used. Longer exposure, that doesn't work on planetary, you'll just get a smudge of pixels.

You can try with a Barlow but I believe you'll be causing more issues, such as the increased focal ratio therefore "dimming" the amount of light getting to the camera sensor. Having tried a few barlows myself, I wouldn't go over 2x, maybe 3x at the absolute limit. 5x, forget it.

Your best chance is eyepiece projection and if you persevere by taking lots of images you may get one just in focus when the seeing is settled.

Thanks for this @Elp really clear advice.  I will have a go at some EP projection.

Feedback appreciated. I recognise I need more subs at a shorter exposures but really happy with how this turned out.

100 subs

no bias or darks (just getting used to basics first!)

12800 iso

0.5sec exposures 

set up;

150p Skywatcher Explorer (750Fl)

Canon 800d

2 hours ago, Mr Spock said:

This was taken with a 100mm f7.4 (740mm) refractor with a x2 Barlow on a Nikon D500, with a slight crop, to give you some idea of the scale.

Beautiful image. The 2x works well on the moon. Lovely details.

I am thinking that a higher power Barlow would allow more info to hit the pixels of the sensor giving more details on, for example Saturn or Jupiter. So when cropped, there would be more data. Is this correct? I know that there would be a large loss of light and therefore I would have to use a higher iso/longer exposure. 

Hi all,

I am very new to visual and AP and keen to learn from any advice. I have a super basic set up and am keen for some pointers around planetary photography using a 5inch 750mm reflector and a DSLR (Canon 800D). I understand that a dedicated planetary camera is better suited due to the smaller sensor size but was wondering if I should be using a 2x, 3x or 5x Barlow for planets. I currently have a stock 2x Barlow and am willing to spend approx £100 to upgrade this. 
Has anyone got any experience of this or specific advice?

Am I better using eyepiece projection?

Love this. I have a 150p and spotted it for the first time last night.

great image and editing! 

On 15/03/2023 at 19:28, CCD Imager said:

A deep image (for me) of the M81/M82 area showing many other features. I processed 25 hours of data in LRGB and Ha. I could have brought out the IFN more, but it was detrimental to the galaxies even with masking, so instead there is more of a subtle glow

Taken in rural Beds with an Askar 107 PHQ and ASI 6200

Adrian

Fab shot. I took my first photo of M81/82 last night (and also my first viewing of it) and beginning to play with it. I’ve got a really simple set up so I won’t come close to this but very inspiring for me. 

10 hours ago, AstroNash said:

Welcome Matt  

 

Where in Norfolk are you? I’m on the North Norfolk coast, we’re lucky to have some very dark skys!

Thanks. Any good shots of the Northern Lights over the last few days and weeks? I’m based south of Norwich so get a decent sky looking away from the city. 

Hi all,

I feel extremely welcomed by you all so far and looking forward to further guidance (no pun intended) and advice as I venture into my new obsession. I’m already blown away with what I can achieve with my simple set up and hope I don’t spend my child’s inheritance as I seek to explore the universe! 

8 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi

If you like the feel and the non-destructive approach of RT, you'll almost certainly like the mask-rather-than-layer approach of DT. 

Cheers

@alacantThanks for this. I have been trialling DSS and then some post processing in RT initially.  I’m trying to keep my process simple to start with as there is definitely a lot to learn! I had a Google of DT…could you share more info of this? Sorry! Still really new to this! 

Thanks for all the advice. I am hoping to get some better results with the processing over the next few weeks whilst the clouds roll in! Cheers everyone. 

8 hours ago, Jasonb said:

Thanks @MessierMatt! You won't get advice from me I'm afraid (at least, not *good* advice) as my experience with Astrophotography is holding my smartphone up to the eyepiece!

However, I do have the exact same Telescope as you, so that's promising to me. 

If you have the time, could you please explain "using the Canon 800d at Prime Focus", and also what "setting up the shot at F4" means? I assume you have the Camera attached directly to the scope using an adapter or something?

Sorry for all the basic questions, but I'm just so impressed with your picture!

@Jasonb I’m super new to this too. The picture above is the first one I’ve taken using dedicated equipment. I’m probably not the best person to ask but I’ll try and answer. ‘Prime focus’ is attaching the camera directly to the telescope using a t ring (I bought one from Amazon for £6 that fits my camera model). The t ring attaches to the camera and screws into the telescope after you have removed the eye piece adapter. There’s quite a lot on You Tube if you search for this. I then aimed the scope at the nebula and shot with the settings mentioned above. F4 is the aperture size (the lower the number the larger the opening in the lens).

Im sure others can confirm or add details to this……

I think the older models of the 150p do not offer enough ‘inward focus’ for Prime Focus. Again you will see this in the You Tube vids.  Good luck!  Happy to private message if you have further questions. 

Thanks @Jasonb. I used a 150p Skywatcher Explorer (750mm) with a Canon 800d at Prime Focus. Having checked the photo information the shutter speed was 0.8s, ISO12800. I think with this set up it shot at F4 but I may be wrong. I’m lucky to live in a Bortle 4 area so reasonably clear skies.

I did some basic processing as I am struggling with using RawTherapee and GIMP at the moment. 
 

Advice is always appreciated!

8 hours ago, nickarp2000 said:

Hi

I use DSS for initial stacking, I then use SIRIL for 1st stretches and colour calibration , the resulting file is then opened in GIMP for final tweaks.

All are free to use and some fantastic You Tube videos to help.

I have found all 3 programs to require a little learning curve and at the end of the day its about your perception of what you like for your astrophotgraphy, so you do as much or as little as you feel.

Nick

Thanks for this. I will look at your suggestions. 

7 hours ago, The Admiral said:

Not sure what you mean by RT or FT, but folk use a variety of processing tools for astrophotography, and they all have learning curves. Often you might stack in one piece of software, stretch in another, and finish in another. Often they have free trials to allow you to try things out. Have a look at StarTools, Siril, and Affinity Photo. Those are reasonably priced or free. I've not used Gimp, but I guess it's similar to Affinity and Photoshop.

Ian

Apologies @The Admiral RT is RawTherapee