Gina

Oh dear I sympathise. I have had these very same symptoms on one of my debayering attempts. No consolation I know but you are not alone. I think it may have been due to going too deep or too near the edge in one place.

That is very useful for using the EEPROM for any project - thank you I use EEPROM on some of my other projects and was aware that the number of writes was limited and cut down how many times it was written by only writing when necessary. The above contains other ideas and will be very useful

Thanks Dave

I was kinda wondering if the ASCOM focuser could be extended to work with more than one scope at a time but I think this is probably asking too much

Much cheaper to buy proper astro CCD cameras

I've looked back through my threads and found the answer - DCRaw is the software I used. How to set it up and use it plus my results are given in my Debayering an 1100D thread. Code to make it automatic using the Windows SendTo feature is described in post #8. HTH

I'm using the 12v version of the 28BYJ-48 running off the 13.8v supply.

When I was checking for removal of the CFA I chose a multi coloured scene and then closely examined the image (grey scale) at pixel level to check for any differences in pixels covering the same colour.

I have had no problem with the standard 28BYJ-48 as supplied lacking power for all the focusers I have used so far - they're quite powerful little beasties Even half-stepping. But if I do come across an application needing more power I'll know what to do

Yes indeed, the CFA is still there. There's twice as many green pixels as red or blue so photos are green dominant.

Just copy someone else's

WOW! That's brilliant - thank you for posting the link I use lots of these stepper motors In bipolar mode I would imagine a 5v motor could be used on 10v. Or a 12v motor on 24v.

I would leave it. Just see what the images come out like. It would be dreadful if you went that little bit too far and ruined it. So easy to do - believe me, I've been there

I don't understand the MOSFET in Figure 4. I use a digital pin on the Arduino connected to the DQ line with parasitic power. No MOSFET. I use this arrangement on my weather station to save wires going up the mast. One twisted pair is all that's required

Good luck with your second sensor

Yes, I have indeed seen that video and tried it without success - the sensor was dud afterwards I also tried this several time in different ways. I think I succeeded once but managed to destroy the sensor at a later stage. It's all written up on here somewhere I think it quite likely that I might have another go at 1100D sensors some time in the future

I think I can see at least one, maybe two or three, broken gold wires on the right. It's so very easy to catch these however much care you take as my graveyard of dead sensors will testify

One design of a home made filter wheel in contained in this thread of mine I use optical sensing. EDIT... And this thread shows an earlier filter wheel which I built before I had a 3D printer Various drive and sensing systems were discussed.

I'll try and find the epoxy I used. ATM I'm totally distracted in sorting out my main imaging rig and problems with power supplies and have not been working on this project for quite some time now. I haven't forgotten about it and plan to get back to it once I'm up and running on my imaging systems using Atik cameras. For me this project is mostly academic I'm afraid but there is the prospect of producing a half-frame size imager that's good enough for worthwhile imaging in parallel with my high spec Atik setup.

Nice job there and well explained - a joy to read - thank you

That's superb - very neat indeed - well done

Often - yes I hate USB! I get it a lot with Arduino Nanos for some unknown reason

I have a single speed Crayford focuser on my MN190 and using a 5:1 ratio timing pulley system. I removed the knob and put a 60t MXL timing pulley on the shaft with a 12t pulley on the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor. I found the step size quite small enough for accurate focussing

This stepper has a built in 64:1 gearbox. I've used several for focussing and found them very good

This would seem to be the case as the Arduino IDE can't tell which version it is or it would detect it automatically and we wouldn't have to enter the version by hand.