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Everything posted by Gina
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And now printing the LED support plate. Just a five minute job
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Printing the Gray encoder disc. Run out of black ABS in 1.75mm so printing in dark blue. I have ordered more black but the delivery looks like being about a week.
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Model of the wind vane hub (yellow part above). The top takes the encoder disc, the projection to the left takes the damping magnet and hole on the right, the aluminium tube with the vane.
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Back to the my weather station... The latest LED holder plate has the property of being able to clear the encoder disc on the zero position. This may simplify the construction. I think the LED holder plate can be glued to the fixed part (shown in blue above) and the hub can be assembled by sliding the parts together as long as the vane is in the "zero" position. The otherwise exposed connections to the LEDs could be covered with hot melt glue to keep the weather out.
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ASI1600MM-C on Celestron EdgeHD 8" setup
Gina replied to souls33k3r's topic in Discussions - Cameras
I look forward to seeing more of your results - particularly NB as that is my main field of interest -
ASI1600MM-C on Celestron EdgeHD 8" setup
Gina replied to souls33k3r's topic in Discussions - Cameras
Oooh, I think you're going to be seriously oversampled though I see you are binning 2x2. Good luck - great start BTW Astrodon 1.25" mounted filters work fine in the ZWO EFW mini. -
Rain gauge looks good The Prusa kit sounds like a plan - several people have them and have modified them to make them better but I have no experience of them myself. Seems you need to spend a lot of money to get a good 3D printer but if you buy a cheap kit you can use it to make parts either to modify it or to make a completely new printer. I have done both. Making or modifying 3D printers can be a bit like astronomy - very frustrating at times! As long as you stick to a RepRep type kit you can get parts dirt cheap. Tekkydave has a Prusa kit and seems to know a goodly amount about 3D printers and I think I can say I know a fair amount too So anything you want to know about making a RepRap printer...
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Do you mean the bucket holds drops of water?
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I'll solder the LEDs and photo-transistors to stripboard (aka Veroboard) so either 0.2" or 0.3" apart. That's either 5.08mm or 7.62mm so the 3 wide would be 10.16mm or 15.24mm. I think 5mm separation between tracks would be sufficient but I guess 7.6mm would not be beyond the pail and less chance of crosstalk from stray light. The current system has the 0.3" spacing. This would mean increasing the size a bit to allow for the extra hub space for attachment.
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Small change in design to take account of assembly. The encoder disc (black) will just be a flat plate with slots plus holes for screwing it to the hub (yellow) that takes the vane shaft and magnet support. Actually, the latter could be printed as part of the hub rather than being a piece of bent aluminium. The IR LEDs will be mounted on a disc (green) which is screwed to the fixed part (blue) that is attached to the aluminium pan lid. The LEDs will be connected in series and the two wires fed to the power supply (via resistor).
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Here is a rough cross-section of the wind vane hub with separate IR LEDs and photo-transistors either side of the encoder disc making the light path much shorter than reflection plus no loss due to less than 100% reflectivity. It does mean that more separate parts will be required in order to make it possible to assemble. Not to scale.
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Here is a cross-section of the reflective version of the wind vane mounting. Now designing a transmission version. The previous one was before I had a 3D printer so a lot more difficult!
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Post disappeared again
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Thoughts on which imaging rigs to concentrate on
Gina replied to Gina's topic in Imaging - Discussion
Cropped and with DBE but I think the DBE could be better. Curves applied to help bring out Simeis 147 and reduce IC410. -
Thoughts on which imaging rigs to concentrate on
Gina replied to Gina's topic in Imaging - Discussion
Following advice from IanL about PixInsight, I have a new integrated image of Simeis 147 with IC410, with better amp glow subtraction. Needs cropping to remove registration borders. This is a screenshot of PI with STF histogram stretch. A dose of DBE would help too but the main thing required is a lot more data. -
Yes, I think transmission would be much better than reflection. I look into that again.
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That looks fine
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I've moved my Pilot 3D printer off the table and onto a cabinet in the corner where the UP Plus 2 printer stood. Also removed the fume cabinet ready for a new bigger one for the Pilot. That leaves the table free for experiments.
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Been doing some research. The photo-reflective sensors I'm using for the wind direction encoder are infra-red and it seems that black ABS reflects IR - doh I think the ideal way to make an encoder disc that works with reflective IR sensors would be to carefully cut black velour flocking material to the shape of a Gray encoder and stick it onto aluminium foil or a thin aluminium disc. OR cut suitable holes in aluminium sheet and put black velour behind it. Actually, I guess I could print a fairly thin Gray encoder disc, glue kitchen foil to it and cut out the holes. Put black velour behind it and there you are Maybe a light coloured ABS would reflect enough light on its own. Think I'll make up a test rig with one of the IR reflective sensors and measure the collector current with various colours of filament. I can also test the reflectivity of FLO flocking material