Gina

If I had a shelf like that it would soon fill up with clutter!! Very pretty though

You need to add thermal insulation to the cold finger, though some uninsulated copper will attract moisture away from the sensor which will be warmer.

Very true. Only if you have a lot of heat to get rid of, such as in a refrigerator, do you need larger TECs. For cooling image sensors you only want a small TEC.

Arranged anti-vibration mountings for the Z stepper motors and also a new X carriage with better piezoelectric sensor mounting and now eliminated Z motor vibration triggering the sensor. Now the hotend fan is triggering it instead so I need to isolate that.

One point that might help you, they are not at their best when run flat out, back off to about 2/3 the maximum current and that should give you the most cooling.

Ah yes, I know it. Not the most efficient but nice and cheap for experimenting. I'm sure you'll learn a lot from it ? Have fun.

Which model of Peltier TEC are you using Louise?

This might be a possible design for the outer casing.

It looks like I may be able to use the 3" dome with this new design camera casing.

I've produced a new design for the upper part of the camera casing, reducing the size of the top whilst still avoiding support.

Thank you very much - I'll have a look.

Been looking at the outer casing and the dome. There is an inner casing surrounding the camera which insulates the cooled camera body from the outer space which will probably need to be warmed to keep dew off the outside of the dome (the inside will have desiccant). The other use of the camera casing is to exclude damp or wet in the event of a breech of the outer casing. Last time this happened as the result of storm damage the astro camera inside was destroyed by wet (there being no internal camera protection from rainwater). This sealed inner enclosure means the USB cable to the camera and the wires to the Peltier TEC need sealing where they go through the inner casing. To reduce the size of the inner casing, a right angle USB plug is used but this still makes the casing bigger than would be desired. This photo shows the situation. Only the lower part of the camera casing is shown. ATM the top part of the camera casing is simply extended to the top of the camera as shown below. Previously, with the Fujinon fisheye lens the dome would have been about 40mm above the camera housing but with the smaller lens I'm now using, the dome would be level with the top of the camera casing. This is shown below with the 3" dome. Clearly, this won't work. I could ease the problem by tapering the upper camera casing part but I'm not sure I can do enough to avoid a flat top around the dome, making sealing more difficult. An alternative would be to use the 4" dome I have. This needs more thought.

Had to dash out and bring the rig in as it's started raining and no protection as yet - just bare camera and lens. No star test then with the colour camera but it is looking promising. I wanted to test the colour camera to be sufficiently sure that it would be alright before continuing with building the ASC and I am adequately satisfied, so I shall be designing and printing parts for the casing to use the new lens. Image just before the rain - 10s exposure - gain 0 - camera at around ambient temperature of 8°C.

Moon at nearly 1st quarter. Zoomed right in to pixel resolution.

Wonder what chance there might be of any clear sky after dark

ASI 178MC for my all sky camera.

ASI 178MC camera arrived this afternoon as expected and I've had it working. The focal plane of the image sensor was nearer the front than the ASI 178MM but the lens focus adjustment easily accommodated the difference. Weather forecast is dire for the foreseeable future so I'll concentrate on the casing.

Post yet to arrive...

Big black rain clouds coming in so I've unhooked the rig and brought it indoors. Never mind I've proved the lens is alright which is what I wanted to do.

They come and go - I'm getting periods of clear sky. Just hoping I can get these clear spells after midnight 30 when the moon is due to go below the horizon. Also, no showers.

Clouds driven by high winds.

Exposure 20s, gain 100, gamma reduced from 50 to 40.

Same settings but next door have switched their flood light off. That just leaves the moon producing internal reflections in the lens. This is with bare lens and no dome. Focus seems a little soft to the top left (NE - Ursa Major) but otherwise the lens seems fine. The slight defocussing could be due to the focus fixing thumb screw. Camera temperature is showing as 7.5°C - no cooling.

Exposure 10s, gain 100.

Some stars showing but so is next door's floodlight and the moon. Exposure 1s, gain 100.