-
Posts
4,385 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Blogs
Posts posted by sloz1664
-
-
Hi and a very warm welcome to the Lounge
Steve
-
Hi Harry, and a very warm welcome to the Lounge
Steve
-
On 22/07/2019 at 22:19, Costabrava Skies said:
Hi Everybody,
This is the first time I have submited a question on this or any other astro forum. I plan to purchase a Skywatcher Esprit ED 100 with the aim to start getting into DSO imaging. Until now I have just done planetary and lunar imaging with my Skywatcher 12 " goto dob. I live in Spain and have pretty good seeing conditions. I know that I will need guide scope etc. but what I am not sure about is what equatorial mount to buy. I was planning to purchase a Skywatcher HEQ6 goto mount as by my calculations it should be more than enough to manage the payload but my local telescope shop are suggesting that it might not be enough and that I should go for the NEQ 6. This bumps up my budget which is already over the limit I had set myself. The ccd camara I will using will be my ZWO ASI 224 colour. I know it is not really designed for DSO imaging but will buy a better dedicated camara when I can afford it. Any advice regarding whether or not the Skywatcher HEQ6 mount is suffient would be very much appreciated.
Many thanks to to yoi all.
paul
Hi Paul, and a warm welcome to the Lounge
The HEQ6 is more than capable of mounting the SW Esprit 100, even if you also added a reducer, filterwheel, OAG and guide camera and a AP sized imaging camera.
Steve
-
Hi Wim,
Also add a rain sensor to the mix, better safe than sorry. Good project btw
Steve
-
I looked at the SteelDrive II when I purchased my Baader diamond steeltrack, but it was far too expensive for what you get and eventually built a diy unit that is compatible with SGPro and works very well.
Steve
-
I'm not really an observer these days, but when was, the Tal 25mm (the one with the purple optic coating) was my preference.
Steve
-
1
-
-
Out of my three very good scopes, no question, The Tal200K. It's never leaving me.....
Steve
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, Ags said:
Go back to just one scope? The question doesn't make sense to me. It's like going back to just one eyepiece 😃
That's the next new post
-
2
-
-
8 minutes ago, Space Oddities said:
If that helps: I went for the ASI1600. It's a proven camera, and despite being more expensive than the 183, the deals with the filter wheel and LRGB filters made it more attractive.
Also, as someone said above, it's a more forgiving camera for the beginner that I am
It leaves me some room for improvement, and should be good enough for most situations and scopes that I own.
Good luck with your new purchase. You will certainly enjoy the mono side of astro imaging. Once everything is set up
Steve
-
Something like this IP65 Limit Switch
Steve
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, Gina said:
Time to look at the electronics...
To control the motor I have a Pololu Dual VNH5019 Motor Driver Shield which I bought several years ago when I was first looking into my observatory roof automation. With hindsight I could have bought the single motor driver board as everything will work off the one motor but I've got the dual one now so I'll use it. This is a proper H-Bridge DC motor driver will all sorts of protection and was recommended by the late Per Frejval who also kindly supplied me with the motor unit with clutch.
Testing of the motor driving the ROR has shown the current needed is just 1.4 to 2A and the full 13.8v observatory supply drives the roof at a reasonable rate, maybe a bit slower than optimum but quite adequate, so reduced current is not needed. Also, with the chain slightly loose, no acceleration is needed on startup - straight to full speed is fine. Also, no deceleration when stopping is needed. All this means that only a simple logic system is needed.
A signal from either a remotely controlled Raspberry Pi or push button in the observatory will set the roof and window opening whilst similarly a signal from RPi or push button and also a signal from the rain sensor will set the roof/window closing. Limit switches in the form of metal sensing proximity sensors will detect when the ROR is open or closed and these signals will stop the motor.
All this could be controlled directly by the RPi but the number of GPIO lines are limited and I find an Arduino slightly easier to program than the RPi plus I might as well make use of the motor current sensing to confirm that things are working as expected, so I think I'll use an Arduino to take care of the main logic. It also means the roof can still be controlled locally should the RPi fail (I have found the failure rate of RPi higher than Arduino though I don't know why). Another point is that I can get the basic motor control working with the Arduino and sort out the RPi later. Arduino control alone will do most of what I want and I might decide not to bother with the RPi and remote control. The main reason for a motorised roof is to close it automatically if rain is detected.
Hi Gina, I'm not a fan of proxy sensors, I would use mechanical actuated sensors. I've had failures with proxy sensors, but very rarely have I had failures with good old mechanical devices
Steve
-
1
-
-
I use Stratton star removal software, very good at removing stars for the price £14.64.
https://order.shareit.com/product?vendorid=200042742&productid=300568169
Again, star removal can be done by other software programmes, it depends on what you already have.
Steve
-
1
-
1
-
-
You get some rest Gina and gather your strength. Clear skies will come and go and there is no point rushing it for a sneaky hour or two. If you're lucky, and as I am writing this the skies are dark and it's raining quite hard
Steve
-
1
-
-
Great to see you are on the final leg of your Obsy build James. Unfortunately it's heavy rain here at the moment and it's curtailed any outside work for me today
Steve
-
Hi and a very warm welcome to the Lounge
Steve
-
Nice set-up and I am looking forward to your exploits with imaging at f2
Steve
-
1
-
-
Hi Patrick, and a very warm welcome to the Lounge
Steve
-
1
-
-
Hi Rich, and a very warm welcome to the Lounge
As regards to astrophotgraphy, welcome to the dark side 👹
Steve
-
Just a thought, can you bin cmos chips ?
Steve
-
Hi Tony, and a very warm welcome to the Lounge
Steve
-
1
-
-
On 19/07/2019 at 15:19, Peje said:
I hadn't considered the temperature, it has been much warmer the last month or so. I wonder if when I previously adjusted for no backlash it was fine because the temp was around 10C cooler.
When I had my NEQ6; I belt modded & super tuned it. I adjusted it to within limits that were unknown to man
I'd adjust it so that it would turn 180 degrees without stalling, on both axis and thinking that was it. Then over time the temperature dropped and the motors stalled and they needed to be fine tuned again. So yes, to gain the fine precision needed to make the EQ6 an excellent mount, you will need to tweak it from time to time.
Steve
-
Happy birthday Gina. Hit that tea hard........ maybe a cake or two or even a scone with jam & clotted cream mmmmmmmm 😊
Steve
-
1
-
-
14 hours ago, Astroscot2 said:
Found this, bought today and does exactly what I need thankfully.
Mark
https://www.screwfix.com/p/eye-bolt-steel-3-8-x-200mm/12120?_requestid=496167
Glad you found what you were looking for Mark. It still makes me chuckle on the descriptions though. 3/8" x 200mm. Shouldn't this be 3/8" x 8" 🙄 Also, 3/8"..... what thread? 3/8" BSF, 3/8" BSW, 3/8" UNC, 3/8" UNF..... I could go on......
Steve
-
1
-
-
Great project, nice to see someone using his diy skills to good use. You can't beat a good Tal finder, the optics are so good. Btw, love the old r&p focuser
Steve
-
1
-
Position of Rain Detector
in DIY Astronomer
Posted
The only issue here is when dew forms on the funnel sides and drips onto the sensor.
Steve