StevieDvd

A few you may want to look at:

The ZWO TC40 - 50kg it has a spreader type connector and a weight bag.

I have the Innorel RTC90 but these ones on Amazon look the same and are discounted at the moment.  The plates are changeable, I think the FLO tripod plate can be replaced (if they have alternate plates) but not quick switch ones.

1 hour ago, powerlord said:

 Joey's kernel is required for the usb and power board to work on the asiair - is that correct ?

I'd quite like to try it and give it a work out you see, but don't really want to faff around with rebuilding kernels to get it working. And running it on a pi is no use to me, as I'd lose the 12v power connectors I need and would need to faff around with new pi case, bla bla.

 

 

You don't need a new kernel from Joey for either Astroberry or Stellarmate to use the power ports. There is now an indi driver  indi-asipower that supports them as standard thanks to Ken Self, if you search SGL you'll see how it was added and used like here for example.

The virtualUSB  is a licensed product that runs only on the licensed computer (server) but the usb connects can be shared over a network - it's about $50 for a single license from the author in Australia. I've tested it with usb drives and asi cameras, the server software is on my Astroberry & Stellarmate sd-cards but licensed to my AsiAir Pro.  You'd need root access to the AsiAir sd-card to use it with the ZWO app but I've not done that myself.

11 minutes ago, Adam-R said:

I think jumping away from the convenience from an ASIair would boil down to the availability/price of the hardware, i.e. another brand is so much better that it makes the decision for you. 

I'm surprised that no-one has hacked the ASI and developed another app that could run other cameras? 

You can run Stellarmate or Astroberry in the ASIAir Pro just by using a different sdcard, that also allows use of the power ports as there is a driver for those in the underlying indilib.

Yes the ASIAir & Canon DSLR will work together and after a quick google of the mount you mention that would work too. The DSLR would connect via a usb lead and the ASIAir will let you switch between using the camera for PA and then for imaging.

Search google for 'asiair ioptron skyguider pro' and some YouTube hits appear as well as posts on cloudynights.

This thread is not simply an advert for the Seestar but is in the discussion area.  Those that have not got one, or have yet made up their mind, may want to see honest opinions and results - even if the opinions are to buy another product.

Not everyone can afford to buy both, though some can and would if they managed to cater for different usages. Or even if they just want to do a personal compare. That's their choice.

The tripod 3/8 bolt looks a bit odd.

If the AzGTi is pre-fitted to the extension first , then the tripod 3/8 pass thru should be done up tight. Last  the bolt under the tray.

You can always add the AZGTI last as the 3 bolts can be accessed at any time.

Was that the explanation you sought?

So I missed the part where you wanted to connect to the mount by the Asiair & SkySafari.

So to do that you'd need both the asiair & skysafari connected to the same network and tell Skysafari the ip address of the asiair and the port number (9624) - I had to google that and found the SGL post below in so doing.

Hope that helps.

Steve

Okay, first the baud rates. The eqdir cables are generally set to 9600 with the chip built into the cable made t connect to the older 9600 mounts. The mounts with a USB setting have their own serial chip inside and hence can use a faster rate.

What stands out as wrong to me is using the Meade LX200 for a Syncan mount,  have you tried the Skywatcher Syncan option?  I believe the LX200 and Syncan are different protocols so would not expect them to work the same.

There are quite a few of us on SGL who have them but they have not exactly made a splash as the ZWO Seestar has.  The firmware/apps have been waiting for a big update for quite a few months but should be a big improvement on the current retail versions.

Dwarf Labs have a beta firmware and app (IOS & Android) doing the rounds but this is a bit of a hacked beta. They have tweaked the existing apps to call some of the new features so it's not what I would call a proper beta.

The main changes apart for the UI design are:

• binning - allows for 1x1 binning on solar/lunar & astro (previously 2x2 only)
• Solar/lunar stacking (as well as tracking)

There are quite a few on the Dwarf Labs FB groups who are posting decent images, though clouds in the UK have limited my use of the beta.

52 minutes ago, LDW1 said:

As I mention I don't have access to a keyboard to type anything while highliting the image, the keyboard is on screen and is not visible at that point. I would have to have a keyboard accessory connected to do what you say, lol !

I just tried an edit on my iphone. I could double-click on and image and an option to cut (delete) the image let me delete the image from the post. Hopefully, it works the same on your ipad.

30 minutes ago, LDW1 said:

It doesn't work that way with an ipad air, I can get it to change color but there is no key board at that point, I don't use an external keyboard  therefore no on screen delete key.

I don't have an ipad to test this but you could click on the image so it's highlighted and type a single character space, number or alpha. That should replace the image if you can use a backspace on the ipad you could then delete any unwanted characters.

15 hours ago, LDW1 said:

I reduced the size of the photos to what I want but the original larger sized photos are still there also, how do I now delete them ?

Click on the ones you want to delete to select them, they'll change colour when selected, then just press delete on your keyboard.

9 minutes ago, LDW1 said:

I will try that, can I still do it with those last two from my last post ?

Yes you should get the same option with an edited post.

2 hours ago, LDW1 said:

IC1805, IC1396 using a basic editing program, took about 5 min. each. Some reproduction of ohotos on this site is bad, can you reduce the size on here for a better overall reproduction ? These really aren't worth showing save to bring attention to the quality.

When you have inserted the picture double-click on it and you'll get edit options.  Add a title and reduce the size for example by 50%, leave the 'Keep original aspect ratio' checked and the other dimension will adjust automatically.

If anyone wants to see the original they just click on your embedded image.

You appear to be missing the adapter to a telescope. The parts in the second picture should be bolted together (3 bolts - 2 of which I can see in the picture).  That forms the standard focuser which then needs an adapter flange for the scope it will attach to.

Have you any idea if there is  a flange for it and waht scope it was fitted on? RVO advertise some flanges for clearance but generally they are obtainable from the US for $75 plus shipping/taxes etc.

With a flange the focuser could be sold for up to £200 imo (see ABS for previous sales). Without the flange someone might take a chance on it but that could knock a fair bit off the price you could get.  If you still have the scope(s) do they have a focuser attached - if not one may have the flange fitted.

Sorry for your loss if we can help with equipment details please don't hessitate to ask.

How about the Geoptik adapter like this one 

It has a connection at the base for a dovetail and a mounting point for an additional cost finderscope connection. I'd google for the best price though as this was the first link I used to show the item in detail.

10 minutes ago, sojourneyer said:

Explore Scientific USA does not sell the Vixen line.

https://explorescientificusa.com/collections/all-mounts-and-tripods

https://explorescientificusa.com/pages/vixen-homepage

may be the mounts are on request.

I use Siril to stack and use scripts to make it easy.  I also have Pixinsight for the rest of my processing but I am by no means an expert.

Siril is free, Pixinsight and it's add ons can be an expensive one-off purchase but worth it in my opinion.

Hi @Tob De Pittu welcome to SGL.

As noted above you can connect to a computer via the handset with the correct USB cable, or by connecting a USB cable to the handset port on the mount. That's likely to be the cable you have shown in your pictures and why it has that connection.

Not many use the guide port as with the mount connected via eqmod all commands can be sent across the eqmod cable.  Some USB eqmod cables use the FTDI chip which remembers the COM port for you, others can change which can be annoying if you've manually set it in Ascom (one it works set Ascom to auto detect).

Hope this helps

Steve

If you need to change the enclosure for any reason there are ones like this on Amazon which have non-metal screws that don't intrude into the enclosure and have drain through for the screws.

I did get a little dew (no heating inside) in mine which was due to a loose cable hole/seal. Planning to replace it properly with a split gland but for now used a ton of hot glue gun to seal it which seems to have done the trick.

Do you want it to be inter-changeable between the existing Celestron mount and your other scope(s)?

If by fitting on a Twilght 1 you mean a EXPLORE SCIENTIFIC Twilight I  I don't think that's feasible.  The fitting on the Celestron mount lets the Starsense unit rotate both in Az & Alt but I can't see it fitting on the side of the Twighlight 1 as that would only rotate on one axis.

However, I do believe an adapter could be made to mimic the mount part of the twist mechanism.  The adapter would need to have something like a findershoe, dovetail etc, so it can fit either on top of a scope or at the side keeping the phone aligned (in an almost upright portrait position) as the scope moves.

If that all makes sense and you wish to progress then post a picture of the part on the mount it twists into and let us know what scope(s) you intend to use it with.

I did have one connected like that a while ago. It was a pain to get it like that as I typed the password wrong and had to sit out the wait time for it to reset.

It's either faulty or the later versions allow switch back to AP mode if the station mode does not connect within a short time.

hAVE YOU CHECKED FOR BAD CAPITALS IN PASSWORD 🙃

2 minutes ago, Mandy D said:

I know this thread is about mounting the StarSense unit directly onto other telescopes, but has anyone tried mounting an entire LT 70 on a bigger telescope like a giant finderscope? This could sidestep the mounting problem, with a pair of rings, a dovetail and a clamp as long as the two telescopes could be aligned..

The modular mounting that @Ratlet has made would be a cheaper alternative for Starsense mounts that have a holster type connection.  Especially with the option to mount sideways or upright.

I believe the Starsense cradle for you configuration is connected via a twist & lock type mechanism.  I know this as I was looking at options for mounting my Starsense in a similar manner.

Can you add a picture of the part affixed to the mount? That's likely what will be needed for making a 3d print adapter for it.

3 hours ago, LDW1 said:

Well you have justified the lack of simple data for the unsuspecting newcomers, you have let them off the hook !  Not surprising rational from an experienced exp.... , lol !   PS:  It probably saved them a minute amount of time and space to provide a short explanation as to how their batteries will / might perform in below freezing temps, a little curtisy to some that have just spent $ xxx on their product, well done !

Not justifying anything for them, it's based on real world experience and answering many questions where the info was available on the internet quite easily. Like what's True North and what are the operating temps for the Seestar S50!!

Do you expect us to contact ZWO (for example) and pass on your comments?

There's an old adage that says "You can take a horse to water but you can't make it drink"