malc-c

I do the same as David. - Here's my QHY5 fles, including the ASCOM driver and camera application QHY5.zip

I believe HEQ5 / EQ6 use Nema 17's - Full spec can be found on the EQMOD site http://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/prerequisites.html so you know what microstepping you need

Hi Richard, EQMod has been around for some time, when a lot of these newer mounts weren't around, so it will detect as close a mount as possible. However, it also has a "Custom" setting in the driver which allows you to enter the values for the worm gear, motor steps etc as defined on the prerequisite page here EQMOD actually obtains the information when it interrogates the mount when first connected (in the same way the handset does) so it doesn't really matter if HEQ5 or 6 is selected. However if you want to set the values exactly you can set a custom mount in EQMOD. If you navigate to the toolbox application (default installation is C:\Program Files (x86)\EQMOD ) and then when launched click on "driver setup" (ensuring eqmod.exe is shown in the dropdown list to the left). The ASCOM setup window appears. Top left under "mount options" choose "custom" and click on the spanner. In the next pop up select any mount (but make a note) for both RA and Dec (make it the same for both) and then enter the values from the table (total steps 4608000, worm steps 25600 )

Have you tried removing the EQTooth completely from the list of paired devices and then put the EQTooth in pairing mode and re-pair it with the laptop / PC?

No worries, it will be interesting to see how you get on, and how it performs

That should do the trick, 60w means it's capable of providing 5A at 12v, and has a stock 2.1 x 5.5 x 11mm centre positive (as indicated by the PJ1 suffix in the part number) connector. I think the difference between the two is the more expensive supply has been approved and certified for use in the medical arena. Meanwell are a decent make of PSUs.

OK if this helps, here are examples of polar alignment and guiding using the stock SW finder with the QHY5 camera And guiding As you can see the RMS guide errors for both axis is below 0.6 acr seconds with the gear stated in my signature. The QHY5 has a MT9M001 1/2" BW sensor with 5.2 x 5.2 um pixels. The sensor in the new cameras listed above is 1/3" and has smaller 3.75um pixels. What or how that impacts the quality of the image or guiding performance I don't know, and I'm sure someone will chime in and advice. My guess is that with the smaller pixel gives more precision in detecting star movement, given that both cameras have a resolution around same size (1280 x 1024 for the QHY and 1280 x 960 for the 120MM)

No worries. To me it's a simple task, but if you're not used to things electrical it can be daunting, and a simple plug in option might be the preferred choice. Swapping the assembly over is very easy, you've already done half of it when you removed the two screws to inspect the PCB and wiring. The two connectors can only plug in one way so you can't get that wrong, and you don't need to strip the mount down to access the MCB. If when the parts arrive you want additional support and advice just ask. But it's straight forward, and I'm sure you're well capable of doing this.

If you have the money then the Altair is the better option. It's a dedicated guide scope, designed for that purpose. Focusing will be easier, it has a longer focal length which is better compared to the SW finder, and it has 10mm more aperture. But its a £100+ more so you would expect it to be. If you want the version that replaces the sock finderscope then this is the option you might need https://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/altair-60mm-guide-scope-gpcam2-package.html The one you linked to has a dovetail that fits onto the main rings of a mount, which without knowing the mount and OTA you are using I couldn't confirm if it would fit. The SW finder is just that, a finder scope. It's as basic as it comes, it doesn't need to have superb optics as it's simply used to get a target into the field of view of the main scope. These dedicated guidescopes are decent telescopes in their own right, with achromatic objective lenses, so will give you far better images than the stock finder. But the conversion of the stock finder works, and unless you are in an area of sky with faint stars, never fails. The 40mm or so additional focal length these dedicated guidescopes offer will help with the guiding, but again, the conversion of the stock finder still gives a decent guiding graph in PHD2 Another alternative is the SW EVOGuide scope https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-evoguide-50ed-50mm-guidescope.html - but then you would need to add the camera, any adapters and the cost of Sharpcap, which Harrisons throw in with the deal. The choice is yours my friend, we can't make up your mind for you.... If in doubt speak with Adam at Rothervalley Optics, or give the guys at Firstlight Optics or Harrisons a call and ask them for their opinions. If you like the look of the scope but want a cheaper camera then see if they will do a deal on a custom package for

You're welcome, like I said, shame we're so far apart. The best way is with a digital voltmeter / tester. Place the test leads into the output from the cable when the plug is held in the same orientation as it would need to be to be inserted into the mount. If it shows -12v then remove the test leads and swap them over so it reads 12v. The red test lead indicates the positive supply from the cable. To confirm that the previous owner used the same sort of cable, change the test meter to the continuity setting, place one of the test wires on the positive pad on the PCB as I indicated above, and the other on the same pin that corresponds to the +12 output form the cable. If it beeps (or shows 0000 on the display) then it confirms the wiring is OK. I would also try checking continuity between both pins on the connector fixed to the mount. If that beeps when you touch both pins then there is a short in that old connector which will need replacing (along with the wires to the PCB) otherwise you will risk blowing the new power supply as well. The reason I mention testing the existing wiring is because something shorted somewhere which caused the supply to blow. The previous owner has used wire that IMO is way too think. If you look at the wires from the PCB, to the J1 connector that attaches to the MCB as indicated, the brown wire is the 12v feed, and is more than capable of handling the 2 - 2.5A draw when both motors are slewing a balanced rig. If you are not confident, do you have a mate who is electrically minded, even someone who tinkers with cars should be able to do these checks and even remake the solder joints if needed?

Yup, that's more or less what I use. I used to use an ST80 piggybacked onto the 200P, but wanted to reduce the weight. so converted the stock finder. My QHY5 is around 10 years old, so has been superseded with more modern technology. Even with the shorter focal length the results when using a DSLR as the main imaging camera have been acceptable with nice round stars. It's a simple process - Point the main scope at a bright start and centre it in the field of view, engage tracking. Adjust the finder so that the same star is centred in the guidescope camera. Now the guider is aligned with the main scope you're set to PA. The instructions on the sharpcap website and the hints through the application are easy to understand, but basically you set the scope in the home position and then start the process. Once it's gathered data, rotate the scope 90 degrees in RA and do the same... it then plate solves the images and then when instructed tells you when to move the alt / az bolts and by how much, and gives an indication of how much the error is. I think it took me less than ten minutes to complete the PA of my HEQ5

For that budget the choices are SW EQM-35, or SW EQ5. Both around the £550 mark, both with similar payload capabilities (give or take a kg) and both with similar specs for resolution and slewing rates. As Micheal mentioned, the EQM-35 is a newer mount, but the EQ5 is tried and tested - The choice is down to availability and which appeals to you personally

I set mine up using a bright star. Center the star in the main scope and engauge tracking, then centre same star in the finder. - Job done !!

I have an old QHY5 connected to the stock Skywatcher 9 x 50 finder - worked well when using Sharpcap's polar alignment option, and with PHD2 for guiding the main scope (200P / HEQ5)

Not a reflector, but my 200p reflector is housed in a self built observatory which is the same as keeping a scope in a shed. Not experienced any real issues even with the scope uncovered

It's a shame you are so far away otherwise I would have suggested a socially distanced meeting so I could take a look for you. If you want a belt and braces approach you can always disconnect the MBC from that AUX PCB by removing the connector on the MCB - the connector indicated connected to the MCB socket as indicated. This would prevent the MBC from being blown in the event there is a short on the AUX PCB or the socket itself when you power on To access the MCB it's simpler to show you this video then describe it https://youtu.be/hdS5Hisgats?t=94 Keep us posted, and sorry to hear that the experience of getting an HEQ5 hasn't been so sweet - They are great mounts Personally, if it were me, and I didn't have the confidence or ability to sort out the wiring I would just replace the complete power / handset / ST4 assembly with the one from Microglobe and get a suitable 12v PSU. Granted the stock power connector can have its issues over time (often due to the weight of the cable hanging down), which is why some people opt to do the modification you've encountered, but mine has been permanently attached to the mount for 10 years and I've had no issues

A lot of laptop PSUs are around 19v. Some netbooks use a 12v supply ( I use one for my own HEQ5. It came from an old Asus A900 netbook that developed a fault). So long as the PSU outputs 12-14v dc it is fine. Ideally needs to be 2.5A minimum

Alan, If the two are compatible (best talk to FLO, but they seem so) then yes that would work...., assuming that the socket the previous owner has fitted has been wired the same way as the leads. IE if the previous owner wired positive to the right pin (as viewed from the front when the assembly has been refitted to the mount) and the supply and cable has the positive feed on the corresponding connection on the plug, then it would be a direct plug and play option. If the new cable and power supply has it reversed then you would need to rewire the connector on the mount by swapping the wires over.. If you have any doubts then just replace that assembly with a new one From Microglobe for £39 which has the stock power connector that PSU you linked to would plug straight into. The choice really is yours, and your ability to test and make any changes that may be required.

Alan, It could be just a coincidence, something may have happened in transit, or something else that caused the PSU to blow....you may never get to the bottom of things. IMO your main motor control board (MCB) should be fine. IF the switch was in the OFF position then no power was fed to the MCB. Right now, with that board off you can trace the positive from the PCB to the pin on the socket and then rewire a new 12v 2.5A power supply using the same type of two pin plug that Steve linked recommended. If you have a digital test meter you could put it on continuity and place the test probes between the two pins on that socket and see if it beeps - If it does then there is a short and the connector would need to be rewired, otherwise plugging in a new PSU will result in it too going pop. It only needs a stray whisker to cause a short. Chances are its sound, but just for peace of mind I would check each stage out before finally throwing the on/off switch

Looks like he desoldered the standard socket to make space and then soldered two overly thick wires (looks like RED for positive and Brown for negative) direct to the board where the old socket terminals went. Which should mean that with the switch on the mount in the off position there would be no power fed through to the main motor board. Sorry you had to pull the mount apart, but at least it confirms things.

Alan, can you undo the two screws that hold the PCB in place and lift out the board a little as it's not clear how the owner wired in the new port. It's still not clear.

Fingers crossed the connector is wired to these terminals

Alan, The assembly that houses the handset connector, power port, switch etc is attached to the mount by two M3 screws that can be found in recessed holes in the underneath of the housing.

Due to personal reasons my scope wasn't used for some time, but last summer I opted to strip and clean it and start using it again. Prior to doing so I checked the collimation this was the result, which compares to the image in Ricochets post (Ignore the cobweb ) The only true way to test the collimation is with a star test where you ramp the focuser in and out and check for concentric rings in the image like this Hope this helps

The mount has been modified by the previous owner. The standard power connection uses a conventional positive centre female connector. The thing is that the connector is keyed and if he's been using the mount then there should be no reason for the PSU to blow unless the wires have come away in shipping and ended up shorting inside the mount housing. The only way to find out of the PSU hasn't fried the motor board is to undo the two screws from below that hold the assembly to the mount and see where the previous owner soldered the wires to the PCB. If he bypassed the switch then you might have a fried board. If you can post a picture of how that socket has been wired it would help confirm or deny if further damage is a possibility.