spc900 lx mod problem help

[Domis]

Mrmoo I think you have done it again.Seems counter intuitive to call the block with the pins sticking out the {pad}.Might just be me though.

[mrmoo]

I see a problem with the fan circuit,I don't know if that would hurt as it is not being used.There should be a track cut between the legs of the 56k resistor and the diode should be connected after the resistor.I am no electronics wiz so better check with someone more knowlegable before changing.

The track does need cutting under the resistor or its doing nothing, the diode just needs to be across the motor. Before or after the resistor doesn't matter. The pad/pin naming is just there to trip you up for a laugh.

[malc-c]

Daz,

I think you've followed the wrong schematic (shown in post #20)... The one you've just linked to shows Lee's miss-understanding of connecting the wires from the serial cable... There should be just two wires and the braiding (screen) from the serial cable connected to the board. One to the DTR, the other to RTS and the braid to ground to common up the black wire from the USB cable.

The other area's I've circled, bottom right, it's not clear if that area should / is broken (I don't think it should be), and the top right (as already pointed out) should have the track broken under the resistor.

Daz - check things through as per these diagrams

Or use Mr Moo's version

And if it helps Lee added wiring diagrams here

http://stargazerslounge.com/1756146-post109.html

[starship trooper]

If I read that right then nope. Where you had the white swap it for the red, and the yellow for the blue.

No i swaped them in the same order so red as pin and white as pad but changed them from pad/pin 10 to pad/pin 8/13 and vise versa.

With two core screened, the shielding should go to pin 5 on the DB9, the other end of the screen goes to the negative. There's no need to connect the signal to the protective ground. Switch looks ok, next time I'll donate you one of my kits it'll be quicker, only kidding. You'll get there.

It would of been quicker to get one of you kit but i am going to get to the end of this

Anyway i thought i'd turn the 2 metal top transistor around to see if that made any difference but no such luck.

I tested the diodes and the transistor and i could see a change at all in the readings the 11v zener diode stayed at 15v the two small top diodes stayed at 3v and the transistor didnt change.

Please could someone clarify whether the diodes are the right way around what i did i put the black line thats on them to corresponed with the black lines on the schemactic...

If i had hair i would pull it out cheers:icon_rr:

[malc-c]

Sometimes it's better to start from scratch rather than try and debug as often removing components and re-soldering can cause further problems.

Yes, the band on the diode signifies the bar on the schematic part

[starship trooper]

i have removed the 56k resistor for now

[mrmoo]

Anyway i thought i'd turn the 2 metal top transistor around to see if that made any difference but no such luck.

You had them right, the little metal tang is the emitter.

Please could someone clarify whether the diodes are the right way around what i did i put the black line thats on them to corresponed with the black lines on the schemactic...

Yes that's correct and they look ok.

[starship trooper]

right i went back to original line up with transistors turn back and the wire back but swap as mr moo said and this is what i got

normal mode

switched mode

can someone tell me if the first picture should be upside down or do i need to change something in sharpcap? i need to test it in the dark later but thats how it supposed to go when switched aint it total white out?

cheers dazz

[malc-c]

Looks like your getting there.

The image is upside down because the camera is upside down, just mount the board rotated through 180 degrees.

Best way to test the camera in LX mode is to put it in a draw or somewhere really dark and then play about with the gain and exposure setting in WXAstro or Sharpcap until you get an image. What's happening in the white out image above is just over exposure in my opinion

[starship trooper]

I try that malc,the image is being saved upside down but in the preview screen its up the right.way

[malc-c]

I try that malc,the image is being saved upside down but in the preview screen its up the right.way

:) - Errr... !

[starship trooper]

right tested it in a draw and this is what i got

As you can see there are a few hot pixels so would the fan make that better?and it still saving my pictures upside down so there must be some setting wrong in sharpcap but in wxastro the image is saved the right way:confused:

so hip hip hurrah i blumming done it thanks to you all for giving me you time and helpping me out you are all stars.....

Dazz

[mrmoo]

Fan will stop that and noise getting worse as it warms up. But it won't make them better, no.

[malc-c]

Way to go Dazz - Got there in the end.

As MrMoo stated, the fan will help it not getting any worse, but you won't get it any better. Bear in mind this is a cheap camera, 640 x 480 res and pushed beyond what it was originally intended to be used for...

As for why Sharpcap displays the image upside down compared to wxAstro I have no idea - I can's see any option to "invert" the image

[Domis]

Glad to see these guys have got you up and running.Now you have to post your first pics with your setup.Should be interesting to see how it all gets on.Good luck with it.

[leenewtoastro]

i must edit that pic if its causing problems although the info is in the thread you have to read it all.

oh great no editing allowed. can a mod grant me access or themselves put a note above that pic its incorrect in malc-c web cam mod wiring thread

[starship trooper]

I shall post some pics.up soon.

What I dont understand is that the pad/pin wires were in the right place according to the bolton schematic but as Mr moo suggested I swapped them around and it work why is tat was it wrong on the schematic?

I have fitted a fan now but with out a resistors coz it quite so all good.

Cheers guys

[mrmoo]

What I dont understand is that the pad/pin wires were in the right place according to the bolton schematic

I can see why it causes problems, it's a nomenclature refering to the controller chips pads & pins. Dating way back to the earliest mods where they lifted component legs.