Filter wheels

[valleyman]

Does anybody manually change filters, with the cost of filter wheels so high.

Does removing the camera from the mount to change filters manually outweigh the cost of getting a filter wheel.

[NickK]

Once your camera is set up, focused, etc then if you pull the camera out to change a filter then you're very likely to need to refocusing, rotating etc.

[The Sailor]

Yes agree, bit of a bugbear so am thinking of adding one.

Jim

[martin_h]

Once your camera is set up, focused, etc then if you pull the camera out to change a filter then you're very likely to need to refocusing, rotating etc.

And you'll need a new set of flats for every change

[Demonperformer]

Won't you need new flats when you change filters whether you use a wheel or not, as the content of the optical train has changed?

[shaunster]

Won't you need new flats when you change filters whether you use a wheel or not, as the content of the optical train has changed?

Not with a wheel ( a good one anyway) as the position of the filter is always the same

[beamish]

ah ! but what if the teensie specs of fluff are not in the same place for every filter ??

[shaunster]

ah ! but what if the teensie specs of fluff are not in the same place for every filter ??

You take seperate flats through each filter

If thats what you mean...

[beamish]

[ollypenrice]

Take out the camera??? AAAARRRGGHHH

Flats are quite durable unless you are hit by a sandstorm but not if you take out the camera. And focus is to be pampered, treasured and preserved, though rechecked often. I'm out there with the F7 TEC right now and that won't change all night but a faster astrograph will vary more.

Personally I like a manual wheel but Martin B said memorably that he'd rather stick his head down the loo at Glastonbury than give up his electric wheel. I have an electric but use a manual because I become suicidal/murderous when I get the familiar Device not recognized or other IT gibberish just when I want to get going. Then I have to warm the camera, lose the mount orientation, reboot, reload the software, reorientate the mount, re cool the camera, redo the autoguider... Pass me the Glastonbury Loo shampoo!!!

Some poor unsuspecting optimist is going to 'upgrade' to electric so buy their old manual before they see the error of their ways...

Olly

[martin_h]

I use a manual wheel too. but only have to take flats every few months. By removing the camera every time you will have to have a set of flats for every change!

[valleyman]

So what is the alternative to Filters? Do I go for a color Camera, or does anybody know of a supplier who is not going to break te bank. These wheels seem to be more expensive than a OTA

[shaunster]

So what is the alternative to Filters? Do I go for a color Camera, or does anybody know of a supplier who is not going to break te bank. These wheels seem to be more expensive than a OTA

You can get a manual filter wheel for about £100 from modern astronomy... not too much??

My second hand atik manual wheel cost £60

[steppenwolf]

I have both a manual and an electric filter wheel and bought the latter because there was a very special offer on that I just couldn't refuse (thanks FLO) BUT, in addition to the good deal, it is also completely sealed once installed on the camera and telescope. Manual wheels tend to be open to the elements simply because the edge of the wheel needs to project outside the body for you to get your thumb onto to rotate the wheel.

That said, the cost of a manual wheel is worth every penny in the hassle saving over taking the system apart at each filter change. No matter what method you use, take it as a given that you will want to re-focus at each filter change and most certainly should take flats for each filter too.

So what is the alternative to Filters? Do I go for a color Camera, or does anybody know of a supplier who is not going to break the bank.

Now you're entering a very different discussion and Olly and I - and no doubt many others - will have lots to comment on so you may wish to start a new thread on the subject but expect some extremes of view (although I think Olly and I have a similar take on the issue - well he hasn't abused me yet anyway!!).

The second item down here (Scopeteknix) is the manual filter wheel that I use and at £90, I think it is good value for money. OK, it only takes 1.25" filters but I routinely use this size filter with my APS-C sized sensor and although it may add a little to the vignetting, it works pretty well and I get vignetting anyway so already have to deal with that! Of course, on a smaller sensor like my SXVF-H9 it is a perfect combination.

[valleyman]

Thanks for all the replies on an intresting thred, wheels seem to be the road to take

[Psychobilly]

Another vote for the Scopeteknix manual wheel thats what i used with my DMK21AU04AS when ever it came out to play..... you just need to watch the thickness of the filter holders that you use with it....

Billy...

[beamish]

......and here too ! keep an eye on the 2nd Hnd market as the ST filter wheel rarely goes for more than 60.00 ( I Should know )

[martin_h]

I use this manual wheel.....Filter Wheels - True-Tech Supaslim Manual Filter Wheel

[ollypenrice]

(although I think Olly and I have a similar take on the issue - well he hasn't abused me yet anyway!!).

Nor will he ever be likely to do so!!!

Olly