Full spectrum + EOS Clip

[Uranium235]

Hiya,

Would I make any noticeable gains if I decided to go full spectrum on the 1000d and use the UV/IR blocked version of the EOS CCD filter? (clip or 2")

Currently using 1000d rear filter removed + Neodymium filter

thanks for any input

[Merlin66]

No gains, but the UV-IR will filter out the bloating caused by the IR wavelengths.

[Uranium235]

Thanks merlin, I just thought the CLS might give me something that the baader filter doesnt, or whether it would have any effect on imaging times (+ or -). Still, worth a thought as a means of keeping dust at bay (clip filter).

[Psychobilly]

The CLS-CCD variant (if you going filter removed) will be a more effective LP filter than the Neodymium... this should allow you to take longer exposures before the skybackground level becoems too high...

The Clip filter is a handy tool as it will allow you to use it for widefield "lens" shots using EF or "butchered" EF-S lenses or most 3rd party lenses with a suitable adaptor...

Peter...

[Uranium235]

Cheers Peter

Just checking them out now on Modern Astronomy, very tempting. Also if i go full spectrum, I can finally shift one or two stubborn dust spots without going through the hassle of taking the camera apart (as they are on the underside of the front filter).

Ive invested in some sensorklear pens as well to keep the CMOS in good nick.

Having said that, im looking at the 2" filter in case I want to use it when I finally get the Atik 320e (is the 320e a 1.25 or 2" fit?, its difficult to tell from just a picture).

[Psychobilly]

How are you thinking of going about removing the front filter without taking the camera apart?

Peter...

[Uranium235]

lol... sorry, should have worded it better.

Should have been: "without going through the hassle of repeatedly taking the camera apart" as ive had it apart 4 times already. I shift one speck, only for another to appear so its better to be done with it completely. Full spectrum would be the last time I have to do it

[cardconvict]

uranium yes i have had enough of taking apart the camera to keep getting at them stubben dusk specks so i'am going down the same route

[Uranium235]

Ahhh, same boat ey? I know how annoying this can be.

The best solution for me was to go full spectrum (no glass at all), use the CCD CLS and buy the sensorklear pro kit - which includes the sesnorklear pen, 3 spare heads, 1 (pretty good) rocket blower and a cloth (but dont use the cloth on the CMOS).

Take a couple of flats to identify where its worse, remembering that a speck in the top left corner is actually located in the bottom right of the sensor. The rocket blower comes in handy for shifting quite a lot of it, save the pen for the tough stuff.

When i use the rocket blower, i do it with the camera above my head so any explelled air & dust is pushed down & away from the cmos. As long as the central area is clean it doest really matter about the very far edges or right in the corner as its not very often you will need the entire frame.

Another tip, if you want to shift a biggish speck while in the field - just take your cam off, flip it into live view and give it a blast with the blower - worked for me

Good luck with the cleaning, let us know how you get on.

[cardconvict]

ok new filter arrived today fitted checked for any dust speck's nothing hope it is clear tonight so i can test it out, i hope this is a good idea. also uranium do you have any tips on the white balance, and what settings do you use on the camera

[Uranium235]

Oh, I forgot to mention a head torch is very useful when cleaning as it shows up stuff you would otherwise miss.

Cam setttings are a pretty standard ISO800 with noise reduction switched off, as far as the camera AWB goes, Ive left mine at Auto and sort it out when processing. But i have heard of people using the Daylight setting, not sure if it makes any difference though.

I think Psychobilly is the best man to ask about Canon settings - what he doesnt know isnt worth knowing

Have fun with the filter tonight, im trying mine with the F5 Newt to see how far I can push it because 5min on the Newt is about 11min on the ED80. Would be nice to have my ED80 subs of M31 complimented with some real diffraction spikes from the newt (thats if theres any stars bright enough to produce any near there).