Just ordered a EOS 1000D, what else do I need?

[yesyes]

Hi. I just ordered a Canon EOS 1000D to get myself started with astrophotography. I've got an 8" Newtonian on a CG5-GT equatorial goto mount (see signature).

First I need a T-Mount with an EOS specific T-Ring, right? Would it make sense to go 2" or is 1.25" enough for the EOS' sensor size? The scope can take both 2" and 1.25".

And, more importantly, what (free) software do you recommend? (for Windows)

I've read there are several programs that can remote control the EOS via USB. Which one would you recommend?

What about image processing? I have been using Registax 5 so far for my webcam imaging. I also have Deep Sky Stacker here but haven't used it much (no data to process yet).

Also, what about guiding? I don't suppose it's possible to use the EOS for both guiding and imaging at the same time? (does live view work while taking the image or only before?). I do have a small refractor (60x700mm) that I plan on putting on top of the Newt for guiding but don't have a guiding camera. Would it be possible to use my SPC900 webcam for guiding through the refractor?

Any further beginner tips and tricks? ;-)

[Glider]

The Canon software that comes with the camera includes a Canon EOS utility program. It lets you select Bulb mode when you're in the right mode(turn wheel top right of camera body) then you can select number of images to take, length of each exposure and the interval between them.

[George]

Any filters you buy want to be the 2" variety seeing as you have a 2" focuser as this will use the DSLR full FOV.

I'd start with a CLS filter either clip in or screw in.

The software supplied with the camera is more than adequate to get you started on the astro imaging journey

If you do a search on the 1000D on here you will find plenty of info & tips.

[Glider]

Yes, you could use the SPC900 through the refractor for guiding but the fov might make finding a guide star near to what you intend to image the practical limiting factor. I use an F4 finderguider and SPC900 combo no problem.

[yesyes]

Thanks for the replies.

So the software that comes with the EOS is sufficient for taking the images. What are the advantages of software such as APT (www.astroplace.net - APT - Introduction) compared to the Canon software? I've read the features of APT but couldn't find the features of the Canon software to compare.

So would you recommend going for a 2" T-Mount? I was hoping the 1.25" would be enough as that would fit both the Newt and the small refractor. Would I limit the FoV with a 1.25" seeing that the sensor in the EOS isn't even an inch in diagonal?

Regarding using the SPC900 as a guide cam, what software are you using for that?

[Glider]

Actually, I've just got back from spending the afternoon at PhilJ's and he has shown me how to focus, take images and do everything that I thought I needed a PC to do just using the screen and push button functions on the 1000d itself!

PhilJ had some old images that he took using both 1.25" and 2" adaptors, the 1.25" were vignetting(but I'd have been proud of them).

I guide using PHD.

[yesyes]

Ok, thanks. I ordered an EOS T-Ring and a 1.25" and a 2" T-Adapter, just to be on the safe side...

And I'll check out PHD

[michaelmorris]

The only piece of equipment I would add at this stage is a bahtinov mask to aid focussing your main scope. Stayfocused do some nice ones that are cheap as chips.

Perhaps getting hold of a copy of Michael Covington's excellent book 'Digital SLR Astrohotography' might be a worthwhile invetsment.

[yesyes]

Thanks. I do have a Bahtinov mask. Got one for £4 off the SnS Astro Boot sale.

The book might be a good idea though. I'll look into it... ;-)

[BlueAstra]

I got a mains battery pack ACK-E5 from ebay:

ACK-E5 Power Adapter Canon EOS XSi XS 450D 500D 1000D on eBay (end time 07-May-10 22:41:00 BST)

No more fading battery with the cold!

Also:

Long USB cables/ Powered USB hub

Canon Tmount

Tmount - 2" nosepiece

Light pollution Filter, started with SW LPF, now Hutech LPF

You may need a focal reducer/coma corrector to get sharp images out to the corner of the CCD

Also check focus range of scope. I think the CCD is about 55mm from the front flange. A barlow may help to increase focal range.

The Canon S/W does everything I need.

Focus with the mask in place using the liveview max zoom on the camera on a bright star. Don't forget to remove the mask!

[yesyes]

Hm, the mains power adapter is a good idea. I've not found a UK based shop for these though. On Ebay they all come from the US.

I got the T-Mounts (1x 1.25" and 1x 2") and the EOS T-Ring today. I got no shortage of USB cables... ;-)

I also got a light pollution filter, a 0.5x focal reducer, 2x and 3x barlows and several other filters, but all are only 1.25". Will have to do until I get more practice and buy 2" filters.

I also ordered a 2nd battery for the EOS. That should be enough for now. Will consider the mains adapter later.

So it looks like I'm all set for imaging. I only need the camera to arrive and some clear skies...

Thanks for your replies! Will post back with first images and loads of questions on processing them ..

[themos]

Astronomiser - Automated Astronomy and AstroImaging Solutions

in case you need to use external 12V power for those all-night sessions.

[yesyes]

YAY! My 1000D arrived yesterday, at last. Something to play with over the weekend ...

[Psychobilly]

Have fun...

Super VFM for astro and general use...likely to remain my main cam until the 500D has had the chop....

The Power adpators make sense - although a canon original battery is good for about 2 hours of shutter opening if you don't use too much liveview and only takes and hour to recharge on the canon charger... 2 batts used to keep the 1000D running all night...

The first subs after live view can show "glow" artefacts which is the only time you get it with the 1000D...

Peter...

[yesyes]

Thanks ! ;-)

I think I'll familiarise myself with the camera during the day first while waiting for clear skies... There's a lot of buttons ..

What do you mean by "first subs after live view"? The first few exposures each time I enable live view?

[Psychobilly]

Live view can put a lot of heat into the sensor which then appears as "glow" along the left edge of the frame and generally higher noise levels... things get back to normal after the sensor has had a chance to cool down...

[yesyes]

So, as a consequence, you would use live view only to focus and then disable it , wait a while (how long) and take the images?

[yesyes]

This would also mean that using live view as mirror lock-up isn't such a good idea?

[Psychobilly]

I don't use it for focusing.. I prefer to take short exposures at high ISO (6-8s at ISO1600) with a Bahtinov on the scope and use the Bahtinov Grabber app to analyse the images...

That way I can go straight into an imaging sequence.... after remebering to remove the mask...

Peter...

[Psychobilly]

This would also mean that using live view as mirror lock-up isn't such a good idea?

Which is where I first found the problem.... and discussed it with Yoddah...

Peter...