DSLR or IS DFK21AU04

[arad85]

Not true, the HEQ5 has dual axis motors fitted as standard as does the EQ6. The Snytek versions have the goto motors and controlboard fitted but are supplied with a basic up/down left/right HC, the PRO versions come with the Synscan HC. The basic HEQ5/EQ6 can be updated to full goto by replacing the motors/controlboard and HC. The EQ5 and below are not fitted with motors as standard.

Peter

Ah yes, you're right. I was confused by the uipgrade mentioning motors - but you obviously have to swap what is there out.

Both mounts are the same, just the HC differs. If you want to autoguide, the mount has a ST4 guider port which will allow you to connect an autoguider fom a laptop or an Orion or LVI standalone guider directly.

Peter

If you're using a laptop, you can pulse guide through EQMOD, avoiding the need for the link back to the ST4 port.

[MishMich]

Not true, the HEQ5 has dual axis motors fitted as standard as does the EQ6. The Snytek versions have the goto motors and controlboard fitted but are supplied with a basic up/down left/right HC, the PRO versions come with the Synscan HC. The basic HEQ5/EQ6 can be updated to full goto by replacing the motors/controlboard and HC. The EQ5 and below are not fitted with motors as standard.

Peter

I'd agree with that. The HEQ5 Pro is (syntrek motors & boards) & (synscan handset). There is no HEQ5 without motors. The HEQ5 with basic motors and directional handset can be upgraded to the same as the HEQ5 pro (syntrek motors & boards) & (synscan handset). One downside with the handset against the EQDIR is that it is not in a little project box that can be gaffer taped to the side of the scope... although some might see that as a benefit.

I have done the upgrade, and tested the connectivity and functionality through EQMOD & Celestron ASCOM drivers as best I could with cloudy skies, and it appeared to work OK through the handset but have not had an opportunity to test it 'live' yet (because I wanted to check the upgrade was working with the handset first, ran into trouble with the power supply, and I wanted to spend some time observing and imaging three particular objects with the upgraded mount while I had the opportunity to, rather than spending the first couple of clear nights in three weeks messing about in the dark with a laptop.

Next on the agenda will be testing the upgraded mount with EQMOD 'live', and then with QHY5 & PHD, using the Onyx & the 5" Meade if I haven't sorted out a guidescope by then.

M.

[SkyExplorer]

Thanks for the information, (I've just Googled EQMOD, EQDIR, pulse guide) and can understand a bit more how all this fits.

Here goes... Both mounts are basically the same, except the pro has a goto HC which can be used as a EQDIR module if I decide to use EQMOD. If I get the cheaper HEQ5 syntrek mount then I get more basic HC that cannot be used as a EQDIR so I would need to buy a EQDIR module to use EQMOD. I think that's right so far.

The pulse guide software can be used instead of a guide scope when imaging and can be used through either the EQDIR module or the HC with the Pro mount?

[arad85]

Here goes... Both mounts are basically the same, except the pro has a goto HC which can be used as a EQDIR module if I decide to use EQMOD. If I get the cheaper HEQ5 syntrek mount then I get more basic HC that cannot be used as a EQDIR so I would need to buy a EQDIR module to use EQMOD. I think that's right so far.

By both mounts, I assume you mean the HEQ5 syntrek vs HEQ5 synscan - yes? If so, yes you are correct You are also correct in that if you by the syntrek you have to buy an eqdir module and that the synscan can be used as the EQDIR module. HOWEVER, it depends how you want to connect up to it. You can get both serial and USB EQDIR modules, so you have the choice of using a serial port or USB port. With the synscan, you get a serial connection so if you want to talk to that through a USB port, you need a USB->serial and, apparently, some are not well implemented and don't work

The pulse guide software can be used instead of a guide scope when imaging and can be used through either the EQDIR module or the HC with the Pro mount?

Not quite. In guiding you use a second camera - either through a second scope or with off axis guiding - and some software to figure out the error in the mounts movement. You then tell the mount to speed up or slow down a little if adjustment needs to be made. You can do this in one of two ways - either with pulse guiding (which says "slew a little faster for 50ms" to the mount or through the ST4 port which applies the same through hardware. The ST4 port needs another connection between the PC and mount - thus more dedicated hardware - but some cameras (e.g. the popular QHY5) have a port built in and you can just link that up instead.

[SkyExplorer]

Thanks for very informative reply arad85.

Good to know I have got the EQMOD bit right (yes I meant the HEQ5 Pro and HEQ5 Syntrek mounts)

As the HEQ5 pro mount is a goto mount I can use that on it's own without a laptop by just using the HC? Then should I wish to start imaging I can easy connect a laptop. (Just want to buy a mount that I will not need to update should I wish to start imaging)

With the ST4 port, if I bought a QHY5 I would plug a cable from that into the mount so the mount controls the motors for guiding?

Cheers

[beamish]

if you've got eqmod you won't need to plug a ST-4 cable in, you can guide via ascom, PHD and Eqmod

[arad85]

Yes, right on all points, but if you're guiding, you'll probably have a PC there so will have 2 choices pulse guide and ST4. Probably easiest will be pulse guide.

TBH, when I ordered my EQ6 Pro, I was thinking along the same lines as you - only use a PC when imaging. Once you've used EQMOD together with a stellarium and gamepad, you will NOT want to use the hand controller and will want the PC with you wherever you go. It is that good...

[SkyExplorer]

Cool, although the syscan HC not having a USB is a pain as my laptop does not have a serial port (this must be updated soon surely - how many laptops have serial ports these days?). Just one thing that has come to mind. If I'm not imaging why would I want to use a computer to control the scope? As I'll have to stand to look through the EP I could use the HC?

Or... Do you use the computer to point the scope at the desired object and then use the gamepad to control the scope to keep it in FOV?

[beamish]

Or... Do you use the computer to point the scope at the desired object and then use the gamepad to control the scope to keep it in FOV?

[arad85]

Just one thing that has come to mind. If I'm not imaging why would I want to use a computer to control the scope? As I'll have to stand to look through the EP I could use the HC?

Because with the computer controlling the scope, you have a handset on steroids. Go to your favourite stellarium software (I use CdC) click on a star/object, slew to it, centre it with the wireless gamepad, "sync" to it (key on and it becomes an alignment point. Go to next object, do exactly the same. You can keep adding alignment points as you go (but 6, 3 widely spaced on either side of the meridian, is probably enough). As has been said above, you can use the gamepad to nudge the scope around, and do spiral searching. I believe you can even control the mouse pointer if you get a logitech gamepad (can't with my Xbox360 wireless unfortunately).

If you can run with a PC instead of the HC, it really does make it redundant. As I say, I haven't even used my HC since I bought it. Well, I have, I put it in PC Direct mode every time I run the mount

[SkyExplorer]

ah, okay now I understand - thanks again arad85.

Okay so I have the mount sorted. Now the scope !!

I have a SW Explorer 200p which looks like it may be a problem for imaging (focusing issues) - But is great for visual

I read the sticky in the imaging section about imaging DSO's on the cheap http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-tips-tricks-techniques/48674-dso-imaging-budget.html

It appears I could get a nice cheap 80mm SW startravel 80mm for say £85 from FLO and attach it to the HEQ5. Would these short tube refractors be better for imaging than my 200p?

I guess as they are smaller the mount will easily be capable of keeping eveything steady.

Would you recommend this approach?

[Merlin66]

Hmmm

The ST80 a good little, lightweight scope great for guiding BUT it's only an achromatic doublet ( read: basic lens!) and for imaging you probably want a bit more....

The next step up would be something like the ED80 which has a better objective lens. Unfortunately almost double the weight and twice as long as the ST80.....

Ken

[arad85]

Yup... what Ken said...

[SkyExplorer]

I guess I'm trying to find an entry point into imaging. I know the achromatic refractor is not as good as an Apochromatic refractor as the former suffers a lot more from chromatic abberation.

The startravel 80mm is £85 and the ED80 is £449 (5 x the price). Would the results I get from the ED80 be 5x better than the ST80?

[Merlin66]

Don't know about x5 better, but you do get what you pay for and the ED80 will bring a lot of enjoyment and last a lifetime.

I got mine s/hand (ED80pro gold tube) for 180 gbp last year. Orion have an identical ED80 model.

Ken

[SkyExplorer]

Will I struggle to get focus with a refactor ?

With the ST80 I guess I could use a filter to help with abberation?

[arad85]

I guess I'm trying to find an entry point into imaging. I know the achromatic refractor is not as good as an Apochromatic refractor as the former suffers a lot more from chromatic abberation.

The startravel 80mm is £85 and the ED80 is £449 (5 x the price). Would the results I get from the ED80 be 5x better than the ST80?

There are also other issues to take into consideration. For example:

- the ST80 drawtube is 1.25". This will cause more significant vignetting on a DSLR sized chip

- The engineering in the drawtube of the 80ED is far better - it has a 10:1 crayford and tension will be tuneable. You will appreciate this when imaging.

If you look at the Equinox (£449 but without diagonal/eyepiece/tuberings etc...) you'll see the focuser is better again and is rotatable and comes in a storage case. Whether these things matter to you is another matter though!

When doing long ex

[MishMich]

I had a fringe killer for my 102. Waste of money, unless you are fond of yellow-tinted images. Thing is, if you need an LPR, and a fringe killer, you'll be chucking more stuff in the optical path, losing light in the process. The ED's give a much brighter image. I was taken aback by how much brighter my Onyx ED80 was compared with the 102 achro.

M.

[arad85]

Will I struggle to get focus with a refactor ?

With the ST80 I guess I could use a filter to help with abberation?

I need a 50mm extension tube with my ED80 to reach focus with my DSLR.

Have we mentioned yet that imaging isn't cheap

[MishMich]

No, it isn't cheap. And once you start, there's always something else you need. And when you get that thing you need, you find there's something else you need. Then there's all the bloomin' cables to deal with. And getting a power supply to the camera, and some way of dealing with the dew build-up while you sit in front of the fire watching Slinet Witness with a hot cup of tea, and thinking about another scope and mount to let you look at something while the one imaging is untouchable. Imaging leaves little time for actually looking, and if you like looking, you will miss it. It also can become obsessive, if you are that type of person, and pushes other things out of the way.

M.

[themos]

If you go the EQMOD way, you can build the PC-to-mount cable yourself. REad the EQDIRECT-USB part of this page:

EQDIRECT

[SkyExplorer]

So for a good entry point a HEQ5 and an ED80 scope is the way to go, the ST80 will work but I will have issues as outlined in the posts.

I can see costs are building, if I bought new then the mount is £700, scope £450, dslr (canon 1000d) £400. Well that's £1550 already

[themos]

cheap, isn't it?

[arad85]

So for a good entry point a HEQ5 and an ED80 scope is the way to go, the ST80 will work but I will have issues as outlined in the posts.

Yup. And you just thought the hard bit was the camera

I can see costs are building, if I bought new then the mount is £700, scope £450, dslr (canon 1000d) £400. Well that's £1550 already

Don't forget to factor in bits and bobs to connect everything to everything else, some decent method of powering the HEQ5, and a dew prevention system....

Then you'll "need" a field flattener as you're bored of having egg shaped stars at the edge of FoV. That may come before or after a desire to guide as you really could do with longer exposures, so that's either an off axis guider and guidecam or a second OTA, with dual mounting bar and said guidecam. More dew prevention needed there and perhaps you're taxing the power supply too. Then you'll decide that you really could do with a scope that gets in closer to some targets, so you'll go for something with a longer focal length and perhaps a step up in quality. At this point, you may feel that what you really "need" is an EQ6... Now you'll realise that some objects aren't just being captured properly due to their strong Hydrogen Alpha emissions, so it's either a large format CCD or modding the Canon...

At some point you may decide that what you really could do with is an observatory, together with your EQ pier mounted..... Now you have to get power to the shed, make it waterproof and have some way of sliding the roof off/on. Oh and digging and filling the metre cube hole with concrete to mount the pier on.

The list goes on....

Did we mention that it gets expensive

[BlueAstra]

I guess I'm trying to find an entry point into imaging. I know the achromatic refractor is not as good as an Apochromatic refractor as the former suffers a lot more from chromatic abberation.

The startravel 80mm is £85 and the ED80 is £449 (5 x the price). Would the results I get from the ED80 be 5x better than the ST80?

I tried a couple of test images with my ST80 (which I use as a guidescope) & Canon 1000D to check the field of view. This will give you some idea of the image quality with an ST80. I think if you want high quality image you need to go for one of the high quality refactors. Note thought with a DSLR you will need a field flattener to get good image quality out to the corners.

http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-deep-sky/96389-st80-imaging-experiment.html