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About MishMich

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    Dorset, UK
  1. Does that mean you don't need StellariumScope any more either? I was going to upgrade, but I'd heard a few people had problems with it. M.
  2. They can be quite busy, so tend to have a backlog. As others have said, you will need a USB adapter if you don't have an RS232 port. Give the guy a ring if you have any doubts, he's quite helpful. M.
  3. Astronomiser (Astronomiser - Automated Astronomy and AstroImaging Solutions) produce a wide range of cables for mounts, as well as USB-RS232 adapters. You can pick up an RS-232 adapter on Amazon - but read the reviews, as some won't work, and the one that does has some feedback about using it with Celestron mounts. You need to give more information for a more specific response. M.
  4. The Opticstar shipped with drivers, the only problem I had was the faffing around with unlock codes to get at them working with the software that shipped on the driver disks (essentially versions of Stark-labs software). The QHY5 seems infinitely better than than the Opticstar, or a CMOS webcam in terms of capturing images. Still not got the guiding set up yet though - mainly due to cloud and what the doc says is probably bronchitis. M.
  5. Looks like the one I saw at Maplins yesterday. Looked a better price than a similar one at Halfords next door, from what I can remember. Looks similar to the ones I missed at Lidl/Aldi a couple of weeks back. M.
  6. P.S. I agree that it is a complete mess, and forking out for one of these I'd expect a set of drivers to be shipped with it and clear instructions for setting up and usage - not an A5 sheet telling me where I can download some old Beta drivers, and little else of any use. The QHY5 may be a good price, but they have been around long enough to have this stuff nailed down by now. M.
  7. I had trouble when I first installed it, but running 7/64 bit. Wouldn't recognise the camera using the CCD labs driver - did recognise it using the ASCOM QHY5 driver, but just got a black screen. What I found was that if I used the camera with QGVideo, it worked, then PHD, it didn't. If I only used PHD it worked using the ASCOM driver. That was using the drivers listed on the forum for the QHY5, Windows 64 bit. You don't get drivers supplied when you buy it new, just a sheet telling you where to get them. This gives you the beta drivers, not the latest drivers indicated on the forum, which are the release version rather than the beta version. M.
  8. Aldi have a 2-stroke 240v generator on sale this weekend for £59. Runs 5 hours on a tank of gas apparently. I guess you'd need a AC-DC adapter to go with it. I'd get one, but my partner has put her foot down on me buying more junk from Aldi/Lidl. M.
  9. I had the same trouble with my Skywatcher power pack. It was only the 7A version, and worked fine with the Nexstar, but hopeless on the HEQ5 once I did the synscan upgrade. If yours is sold as 17Ah and has 12Ah battery - take it back. That is misselling, and covered under the TDA. I have an AC-DC converter now, which is worry free. I notice Maplins do the battery units independently. There are several threads on people's use of leisure batteries & gel cells as an alternatives. M.
  10. yes, that is why I put USB-RS232 as USB 1. The mount RS232 cable only runs to about 9600 baud, so I'm not sure there's any advantage in having it USB 2 compatible - apart from ensuring anything else on the same hub runs at USB 2. If the adapter is USB1 then the mount won't be either. I had a look in Maplins, and there's not a lot of choice. The one there you suggested is one of only a couple that have a power supply - but it's quite chunky, there was a 4-port hub by the same company, but there was only a fiver between them. I still like the look of the D-Link ones, except that I can't get them on Amazon prime, which adds a fiver shipping cost. Will sleep on it. M.
  11. Looking at the recent images shared of M42 etc. using a 20D, it does look like the lens used has far more effect on quality of image than the actual camera. I was surprised at the difference using both my Sony Alpha and Canon EOS between using their 'stock' lense or 'budget' add-on lenses, and the ED80 (or even the 102SLT). (in terms of quality, sharpness, etc., not magnification). If I were starting again, I would go for an EOS100D body only, and the best quality lens(es) I could afford, rather than a more highly specified model with stock lenses. That way, if I did decided in the future to upgrade the camera, I would still have good quality lenses to go with it. I have fairly basic 50mm, 70-300mm zoom, and the standard lens, and while I was impressed at the beginning, this soon wore off. I recently picked up a 135mm Soligor lens for peanuts; it could be as much as 50 years old. I tested it out on the EOS1000D. Apart from losing the automatic functions, in daylight, I think the older lens delivers a better picture, and is nicer to use. Being metal, it weighs a lot more though. I'm sure these will never compete with the modern top-end lenses on the market, but it seems to me if you don't need all the bells-and whistles that go with the stick lenses (i.e., if you us the DSLR as a camera rather than a point-and-shoot), some of the older SLR make good cheaper alternatives to the 'budget' lenses on offer. M.
  12. I decided on a wireless numeric keypad rather than a game controller, as I'm more likely to use that for other things than a gamepad - and a wireless numberpad is cheaper than a wired gamepad. Going by that then: QHY5 = USB2 EOS1000D = USB2 GPS dongle = USB2 USB-RS232 = USB1 Wireless number pad = USB? So, the USB1 & USB? devices (mount and handpad) would be best going into the two spare PC USB ports, and the three USB2 devices (cameras & GPS) into the USB hub? Thanks. M.
  13. I'be already ordered a 5m cable that will plug straight into the QHY5 at one end - so I might keep that one plugged into the laptop. M.
  14. The D-link one seems to be rated quite highly, although I've never tried any of the D-link kit. I have a Netgear 8-port ethernet hub, which works fine, connected to a Linksys wireless router (about 4-5 years old now), which has never been any problem. M.
  15. Thanks for the replies - using a powered hub to reduce the number of cables and as a USB extender is a good idea, thanks. M.
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