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I'm sure there must be some of you guys using Maxim DL for processing and control of CDD etc.

I am Currently imaging with a DSLR and am interested in buying Maxim DL for DSLR. Does anyone have an opinion on this software?

Is it worth the money, and is it better to buy the DSLR version or should I future proof with a CCD version if it will still do for my DSLR ?

I've found a version on sale for $59.95 as a download from

Buy Diffraction Limited MaxIm DL 4.5 :: BUY Cheap OEM Software

its version 4.5. Whats the catch when the normal price is about $300 or more ??

Any help would be gratefully recieved ,

Regards

Richard

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I am currently using v 4.58 and have no plans for upgrading partly because I have no disposable loot but secondly because it does everything I could want in capture, stacking and the early part of post processing so don't let the version put you off. However, this particular offer lacks CCD and telescope control (present in my V 4.58 CCD version) which is a severe limitation for the future so my temptation would be to go for another solution.

What DSLR do you have at present?

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' Evening Steve,

Currently I have a Cannon 300d. I'm just starting out and disposable income is in short supply, hence my attraction to the $59 deal. I do need some focusing assistance and a better package for processing final images. I may be able to get a copy of photoshop cheap but then I will need to purchase several plug-ins to get the functionality I require, and I'm not sure wheather MAxim Dl is a bettre option for me at the moment. I'm know in the future I will want to have a crack at CCD imaaging but it may be a long way in the future .

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Version 5 does DSLR and CCD It isn't cheap though. You have a 30 download trial period before you decide to buy.

You are allowed to install it on two machines.

I'm not remotely expert with the software, still on the learning curve, but I do like it a lot.

Ron.:)

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Thanks for all the info.

There's plenty for me to investigate. I'm even having a look at AIP4WIN which comes with "The handbook of Astronomical Image Processing" that's supposed to be good too.

Richard

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Richard, if funds are limited but you want to get started on this image malarkey, you could consider the following software which got me on the imaging route quite satisfactorily at minimum cost:-

DSLRFocus . This give full control of the camera (with a simple interface to control long exposures in excess of 30 seconds) and makes focus very simple if you are prepared to have a PC outside with you.

If you don't want a PC (laptop) outside with you then you could buy one of these from Ebay to set up an imaging session.

For Image processing, The Gimp is an excellent alternative to PhotoShop at ZERO cost.

Hope that helps.

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Will have a look at all these suggestions. The imaging timer gizmo looks particularly interesting as at the moment I'm spending lots of time with the mobile phone stopwatch and home made cable release whilst freezing my nuts off in this weather !!

I am willing to go the laptop route but I need to lay my hands on an inexpensive 2nd hand one. I guess it doesn't have to be that sofisticated, just enough to run some control software and focusing stuff etc. There seem to be plenty available reconditioned so I just need to do a bit of weekend work to pay for it.

Richard

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I would echo Steppenwolf's first post (No 2) above and go with Maxim. Look at the overall life cost of what you buy and learn from other's difficulties with poorly written software that does nothing but clash with other software you might be running.

Maxim will control your camera, focuser, guider, mount and do all the pre processing necessary before opening the image in Photoshop. As it is just the one platform it can hardly clash with itself and cause endless freezes and so on. I use 4.58 and have no intention of updating it just because someone else did or to help Cyanogen's cash flow.

Regarding PS, somebody around here bought a legal version for about £100 and you do not need to go higher than version 8 or CS. That does 16 bit and the features it already contains will help you to achieve superb pictures provide you expose for long enough. (Don't think you can achieve world class pictures with a 2 hour exposure because you can't). Neat Image will help control the inevitable noise and is the only plug in you really need.

Dennis

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Dennis

Thanks for the comment. I think you are right. I may be trying to save money by mixing and matching all types of "cheaper" software, when one would do nearly all the work for me. I bought the best mount I could afford at the time (HEQ5 Pro) so I should continue the same reasoning and buy something worthwhile.

Cheers

Richard

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I'd agree with Dennis, except to say that there is one other almost essential plugin, which is Gradient Xterminator. Not expensive and will sort out any gradient issuse very quickly.

Cheers

Rob

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  • 3 months later...
Richard, if funds are limited but you want to get started on this image malarkey, you could consider the following software which got me on the imaging route quite satisfactorily at minimum cost:-

DSLRFocus . This give full control of the camera (with a simple interface to control long exposures in excess of 30 seconds) and makes focus very simple if you are prepared to have a PC outside with you.

If you don't want a PC (laptop) outside with you then you could buy one of these from Ebay to set up an imaging session.

For Image processing, The Gimp is an excellent alternative to PhotoShop at ZERO cost.

Hope that helps.

Only comment I have about DSLR Focus is that I have never managed to get it to work with anything above Windows XP. It worked great, but when I "upgraded" to Vista, I couldn't get it to work at all - haven't tried with Windows 7 to be honest. I now use Nebulosity2, which works just fine and allows you to do quite a bit of the processing of the images. Only issue that I could see with a 300D is that the long exposure stuff only works with the DIGIC II processor onwards, which I thinks only started with the 350D.

Terry

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