Jump to content

Walking on the Moon

NGC7000 North America Nebula question


Recommended Posts

I have a Canon 80D and Skywatcher AZ-GTi in EQ mode (non guided), my question is which lens from below (and what focal length) would be best to capture NGC7000 in bortle 6 skies.

50mm f1.8

24-105mm f4

70-200mm f2.8

150-600mm f5.6-f6.8.

Also any tips would be appreciated e.g. shutter length (t) ... iso value ... advice on extracting the best image to see the nebula colour.

Thanks Paul

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can actually view them on Stellarium and put in your camera and lens to see the framing. Very useful.

I have no experience with an AZ mount, but this was one of my first targets…before I knew of calibration frames! I shot it at 200mm f2.8, 200 frames at 20s each on iso 800, bottle 4. You can see it (with a mild crop) below: 

 

 

 

Edited by WolfieGlos
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On an unguided mount (but assuming still driven) I would go for the 50mm f1.8 and avoid the zoom lenses.  NGC7000 is quite big so will still show up clearly. Unguided the exposures will need to be fairly short and if it's the Canon 'nifty fifty' I would stop it down to at least F2.8. This is one of my first ever astro images taken several years ago and poorly processed, 30 x 60sec on a homemade tracking (but unguided mount), unmodded Canon 200D with 50mm f1.8 lens at f2.8, ISO 1600.

20190702_010000_342ab98e146d.thumb.jpg.f49becc300f3ba47d17549e821cc2a66.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd use the 70-200 F2.8 (assuming it's the canon version, which is a very nice lens) @200mm at F4. you should be able to frame it up nicely at that focal length and F4 is still quite fast. The other lenses the target will be just too small and the longer lens is pretty slow.  I'm not really familiar with the mount but just experiment with how long you can expose for before trailing becomes apparent. The Canon 80d is ISO invariant so there is no penalty with regards to noise if you brighten the image in post production rather than increasing your ISO in camera. I used to use an 80d and always shot at ISO 400. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.