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About Seelive

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    Star Forming
  1. My camera and guide scope are attached to a single 8" dovetail, the camera at one end, the guidescope at the other. For star alignment I just use liveview at 10x on my Canon, just make sure the magnified area is reset to the central screen location before going to10x mag. It's fairly easy to judge when the alignment star is in the centre of the screen. As for guide scope/camera alignment, my camera and guidescope can only be fitted in a particular orientation so I just aligned them the once in daylight on a distant object. I would suspect that at just 135mm the alignment will not be that critical, particular for exposures in minutes (rather than hours).
  2. I would certainly be interested in understanding how vignetting causes that effect, but whatever is the cause, it does appear to act in a radial manor.
  3. That doesn't look particlarly good. I hope the internal thread in the mount is not as bad. I see there are shoulders on the locking rod but, given the total length of the threaded portion, would it be possible to cut off the length of stripped thread?
  4. Try selecting SETUP MODE on the handset and scroll to FACTORY SETTING?
  5. I would suggest you upload the logs to a file sharing site and post a link so that people can then download them and do there own analysis. ... but I've just seen you've uploaded the here ...
  6. Mine are found in Documents-PHD2. There are 2 types of file, Debug logs and Guide logs. Finding them is the easy part, understanding them is a different matter! They are just text files so you can open them with any text viewer and you can download a Guide log viewer from https://adgsoftware.com/phd2utils/ that recreates the guiding graphs and most other information from whichever session you select.
  7. Have a look here https://openphdguiding.org/man-dev/Trouble_shooting.htm and try some of the recomedations for overcoming problems with declination backlash?
  8. Often a process of trial by elimination can help. Start by just stacking the lights to see the result. Better or worse? Then (say) include the bias, better, no difference or worse? If the latter, then leave them out and repeat the process with the darks or the flats etc. A bit of a time consuming task due to the number of varations you can try, but what else can you do on a cloudy night?
  9. Try changing the alignment method. DSS usually defaults to Automatic which with 700+ detected stars will result in Bicubic being selected. I've occasionally have had similar results of aligned stars in most of the image but strange effects in some areas. Select either Bisquared or Bilinear instead.
  10. That top trace certainty has a sinusiodal form to it, albeit distorted by lower order errors (a square wave is just a sinewave distorted by an infinity of odd harmonics). I would expect the dumbell effect to only appear if the exposure time exceded half the primary periodic error period.
  11. The period of the final worm wheel periodic error on an EQ5 would be 10 minutes and since periodic error normally approximates a sinusoid I can't see, given the 2 minute exposures, how you would get the 'dumbell' stars. Surely, depending upon the when the exposure occurs during the periodic cycle, at the zero crossing of the 'sinewave' you will get a long trailed star whereas at the crest you will get a short trailed star but never a 'dumbell'.
  12. To me that looks like the 'natural' colouration for M31, I dont see why you would want to get an orange core. The NGS1 filter also removes most of the spectrum between 550 and 650 nm so there goes all the yellows and oranges.
  13. I've used a Canon 200D for the past 2 years for astrophotography and I've been very happy with the results that I get. 24MP APC-C format, small and light but has been recently superceeded by the 250D so you should be able to pick one up second hand with a resonably low shutter count.
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