EQ3 mount

[Richard 68]

Hi All 

I’m new to astronomy and astrophotography, I have just got a 150P on an EQ3 mount (not EQ3-2) and would like to put a motor on it, can anyone offer some advice on what I fit to the mount all through the price range and good and bad points if any. 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions 

 

Richard

[John]

Hi,

Could you post a picture of your mount ?

That will make it easier to ID the mount and pin down the correct motor for it.

[Richard 68]

This is the mount, it’s the best I can do at the moment as I don’t collect it until this afternoon. I have been told that it’s an EQ3 mount and not an EQ3-2.

Any help would be grateful 

Richard

[Alan64]

I have an EQ-3, a Celestron CG-4...

Don't be worried about the difference between an EQ-3 and an EQ3-2, as there really isn't a difference, at least where a motor-drive is concerned.  For visual-use, and perhaps even for imaging if inclined, I would motorise only the RA-axis...

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/all-mounts-motors/single-axis-dc-motor-drive-for-eq3-2.html

I have read where someone used one of these drives for an EQ-3, and successfully...

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/celestron-astromaster-series/motor-drive-celestron-astromaster-geq-93514.html

However, the mounting-brackets that come with it, one for an EQ-1, and the other for an EQ-2, will need to modified, if not a new bracket fashioned outright.

That drive has a speed-control, and for fine-tuning the rate at which an object is tracked; other drives do not.  But there is just one thing: the worm-shaft, where you would attach a slow-motion control, and the RA-gear, must rotate and turn easily, freely and smoothly, with no slop or binding.  With the mount unloaded, with no counterweight attached, you should be able to twist the worm-shaft with your fingers...

 

If you cannot, you will need to make adjustments until you are able, else damage can result to the motor's gears and the motor itself.  I took my EQ-3 apart a while back, and removed the factory grease and replaced it with a quality grease, such as Super Lube.  That's what I use for all of my mounts, and it works a charm.  These equatorial mounts are quite mechanical, like a clock, and all that that entails.

Edited August 11, 2019 by Alan64

[bobro]

The Astromaster RA drive mentioned above does not have accurate speed control - it has a simple DC motor with a difficult to use speed adjustment. This isn't an issue for visual, but for imaging (assuming you are able to fiddle with the control to get a reasonably accurate speed) star trailing in images will occur due to motor speed inaccuracy/variation - you may be lucky enough to get 30 secs before trailing starts with your 150P (I managed 30 secs much of the time with my Meade 130/650 using the simple RA motor). I'm familiar with the design, having reverse engineered the circuit to modify 2 motors for dual axis guiding for my EQ2 - in that case the speed accuracy wasn't important as the guiding setup varied the motor speed in RA as required.

The EQ3 motor mentioned above is an accurate motor drive - hence it doesn't need a speed adjustment. This motor is suitable for astrophotography and will allow longer exposures that make for better astro images, though the lack of goto may become an annoyance, so an improved solution could be to fit a SynScan Upgrade kit at £285 if funds allow.

 

 

[Richard 68]

Thanks for your help guys, I am also hoping to connect my Nikon D5000 to it (it’s my lightest  dslr) I know I need a T ring but I’m getting confused as to what else I will need, any answers would be much appreciated 

Thanks

[rockinrome]

Hello
I had the exact same head and upgraded it with the SkyWatcher EQ3-2 upgrade kit:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/synscan-pro-goto-version-3-upgrade-kit-for-eq3-2.html

Upgrade was easy and mount worked flawlessly.

NB Make sure handset and motor firmware are at latest versions - all available from SkyWatcher website.

Clear skies.

MJ

 

[rockinrome]

Oh and as for camera connection ---- to start simply get t-adapter (for 1.25in eyepiece) and t-ring for camera (screws into adapter).