anybody use the zwo lrgb optimized filters for the asi1600

[Wirral man]

i ordered my asi1600 with the kit zwo lrgb filters optimized for this camera but looking at some of the subs there seams to be halos around stars

im thinking about getting the baader set instead plus i cant really see any examples of the zwo filters but plenty of stunning image's with the baader for the sake of a extra 80 pounds these would last me years hopefully 

[Dragon_Astro]

Not used the filters, but I thought the 1600 optimised ones were made that way so they're close to the sensor to avoid vignetting?

You might have problems with gradients/poorly illuminated subs with the Baader ones.

 

[wimvb]

The ZWO ASI1600 optimised filters are designed to match the spectral responsivity of the camera. This means that if you image a (hypothetical) white light source through these filters, and you use the same exposure time for each filter, you end up with a correct white balance. In addition, ZWO filters are designed to block the sodium and mercury lines in light pollution. If you do your own colour calibration, and suspect the filters to cause reflections, there's no real need to use them, go with the filters that have least reflections.

[LightBucket]

Personally I would go the Baader route, I tried the ZWO offering, and to be honest....they are not optimised for the camera they are just a cheap version....that seem to work “ok” with the camera....

As  we all know in this game, you get what you pay for....  

[Wirral man]

i have a few days left to choose as i bought the kit from flo and within the 14 day cooling off period i need to make the right choice

[groberts]

Do you have the correct size ZWO filters, as they need to match the light cone of the telescope you're using? 

In my case with a WOGT81 & x0.80 focal reducer it was necessary to get the 31mm ones, which work fine but make sure you use calibration flats too.  

Graham

[kens]

@Wirral manHalos can be caused by several things, not just the filters. This article from Astronomik might be useful to you:

https://www.astronomik.com/en/news/astronomik_halo_free_filter_halo_problem/

By the way - it would be useful to list your gear in your signature. as so many responses depend on what gear you have.

 

[Wirral man]

1 hour ago, kens said:

@Wirral manHalos can be caused by several things, not just the filters. This article from Astronomik might be useful to you:

https://www.astronomik.com/en/news/astronomik_halo_free_filter_halo_problem/

By the way - it would be useful to list your gear in your signature. as so many responses depend on what gear you have.

 

 how do i do the signature ken? done it now thanks

 

[kens]

With your OTA the filter size should be fine - with the ASI1600 1.25" filteres are fine even down to F/5.

Can you post an example of the halo you are seeing?

[Wirral man]

the filter size is ok its the quality of the filters im concerned about there is not much info on these which leads me to believe they are not popular compared to the baaders plus not partial  

[kens]

You are most likely to get halos on the narrowband filters. If you are getting halos with the RGB filters its worth checking them to see if it is indeed caused by the filters and not something else. I've got the ZWO LRGB filters but I don't use them often. I've seen halos but so far I've put them down to poor focus. Typically I've had a bloated blue channel.

Even with the Astronomiks, my blue filter is not quite parfocal with the R and G. Lately I've been getting some reflections on them also but I think it could be from the back of the OAG. The narrowband filters are parfocal.

If it were my money, I'd be inclined to stick with the ZWO LRGB but get Astronomiks 6nm narrowband. Can't comment on Baaders vs Astronomiks as I've never used Baader.

 

[Wirral man]

well i forgot all about astro bin found a lot of examples on there and managed to get a couple of shots last night it seams i was out of focus on the blue filter so think i will stick with the set i have plus got to stop spending money..i need to slow down and master what i have

[groberts]

11 minutes ago, Wirral man said:

i need to slow down and master what i have

Good idea, I'm still doing that after 4-years!  I'm sure you'll find the ZWO filters OK and once mastered of the necessary  techniques can upgrade in the future if warranted.  Good luck.

Graham 

[wimvb]

25 minutes ago, Wirral man said:

i need to slow down and master what i have

This small investment should help.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html

Highly recommended.

[Wirral man]

55 minutes ago, wimvb said:

This small investment should help.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html

Highly recommended.

belive it or not i have both books still reading them 

[Redscouse]

10 hours ago, Wirral man said:

plus got to stop spending money..

I have watched your posts over the last fortnight or so John and was wondering when we'd reach this point, or if you ever would!  I use the ZWO filters. They're not bad. Granted they're not the best on the market but they get the job done just fine. 

10 hours ago, Wirral man said:

i need to slow down and master what i have

Indeed. Once you know your kit, you'll know what you do (or don't) need next. 

I'm looking forward to seeing some of your images in the near future.   

[Wirral man]

yes the filters seam fine looked at some images on astrobin and quite impressive!! i was out last night and again hit problems its hard as im in work in the mornings and with it not getting dark till late my time is short its a real pain, however each time is a learning curve 

[kens]

The great thing is that, with few exceptions, your targets are not going to disappear. By the time the nights get longer you should have your technique down pat and ready for some serious imaging

[Wirral man]

29 minutes ago, kens said:

The great thing is that, with few exceptions, your targets are not going to disappear. By the time the nights get longer you should have your technique down pat and ready for some serious imaging

thanks i really hope so just as i think i have nailed down a issue pops up and then time to correct it but it will come in time

[Redscouse]

John, do you set up indoors?

If not, you should. I set mine up in my office near the window. Fire up all the different software and 'learn' what does what. There is a church approx. 500mtrs away that I used to practice focusing/slewing on. It means you don't have to waste valuable dark time learning your kit. 

[Wirral man]

11 hours ago, Redscouse said:

John, do you set up indoors?

If not, you should. I set mine up in my office near the window. Fire up all the different software and 'learn' what does what. There is a church approx. 500mtrs away that I used to practice focusing/slewing on. It means you don't have to waste valuable dark time learning your kit. 

Hi bud have setup indoors and in the day which has helped to be honest im not far off now from getting everything up and running like the other night i had plate solving issues as i tried to use astro tortilla but waste of time so went back to point craft in apt,

when you hit these daft issues it wastes so much time and with working daily its hard i setup around 9pm wait for Polaris to appear use my app and get polaris where it should be in the pole scope then have to wait till 1030ish before sharpcap can see more stars to run the polar alignment so then its getting close to 11 slewing to stars and syncing then plate solving then starting phd2 fresh each time its getting on for midnight im up at 530am lol so not good anyway moan over ... i Will get there haha

[kens]

Try using PHD2's PDA and SPA tools. Point at Polaris, and start PDA. Select Polaris or any star you can see and adjust your PA. The switch to SPA and fine tune it on Polaris. That should save you some time as you only need to see the one star. Why are starting PHD2 for each target?

[Wirral man]

5 minutes ago, kens said:

Try using PHD2's PDA and SPA tools. Point at Polaris, and start PDA. Select Polaris or any star you can see and adjust your PA. The switch to SPA and fine tune it on Polaris. That should save you some time as you only need to see the one star. Why are starting PHD2 for each target?

Hi Ken i think you misunderstood phd2 i only set it up when im imaging the one target i allways do a fresh calibration as i have to take down the mount each night, also what is spa tools

[kens]

SPA is the Static Polar Alignment tool in PHD2. You can find it on the Tools menu. There is a video tutorial at https://openphdguiding.org/polar-alignment-tool-video-tutorials/

Polar Drift Alignment (PDA) is also on the Tools menu and is also covered in the videos. Using these tools might help you get your polar alignment done quicker

[Wirral man]

7 minutes ago, kens said:

SPA is the Static Polar Alignment tool in PHD2. You can find it on the Tools menu. There is a video tutorial at https://openphdguiding.org/polar-alignment-tool-video-tutorials/

Polar Drift Alignment (PDA) is also on the Tools menu and is also covered in the videos. Using these tools might help you get your polar alignment done quicker

ok will watch them and give it a go