Imaging with a Nikon D40...HELP!!!

[Andrew1972]

HELP!!! I've recently received a Nikon D40. I've purchased the T-Ring/adaptor from FLO (thanks for the swift delivery Steve!), and currently have it attached to my ED80. This is my first forray into DSLR photography (full stop!) so i'm hoping somebody with a bit of D40 experience might be able to assist.

I'm starting with a bit of daylight testing and have the camera attached to the ED80. I can achieve focus on the roof over the road but how would I go about taking the photograph? I've set the camera to manual but have gone no further with regards settings (as I haven't got a clue). What next?

Apologies, but i'm 100% new to DSLR photography so even if you have some basic DSLR advice it will be much appreciated! Also, if you have any tips for when I take the camera out for a first astro imaging session they will also be (very) gratefully received!

If this sort of thing has been covered before then it would be much appreciated f you could point me to the thread.

Thanking you in advance,

Andrew

P.S. The camera has not yet been modified.

[Naz]

Without me looking it up, what is the f number of your scope? First as the metering in the camera probably won't work with the scope, refit the standard lens. Then you to need check the camera manual about setting the shutter speed and aperture. If your scope is f8 say, set the camera lens to that, then adjust the shutter until the camera display says the exposure is correct, note the shutter setting, then swap the scope for the lens. This only applies to day time exposure.

For night time, for the moon shortish exposures, fractions of a second, 1/30 / 1/60 or even 1/125 of a second say to start, if the exposure is dark, then try 1/16 or 1/8, if too light, shorten the exposure. Much longer exposures of several seconds to many hours are required for DSO and star fields. It is all a matter of trial and error.

Remember the f number of your scope is fixed, you only have the shutter speed to play with. Also shooting in RAW mode will allow you more exposure latitude.

Hope this helps.

Archie

[Kaptain Klevtsov]

You'll have to be in M (manual) mode, snap away and check the picture on the back. If its too bright you need a faster shutter speed and vice versa. Just play with it in manual and you'll get used to it.

Kaptain Klevtsov

[Andrew*]

As Archie says the rules for daytime are not the same as for night time.

For astrophotography you want long exposures. I presume the D40 will only do up to 30s, but you should aim for 2+ minutes. This can be done in "Bulb" setting, which means as long as your finger is pressing the shutter release the shutter will remain open. Of course you can't sit there for 2 minutes with your finger on the button - Get yourself a remote shutter release that will lock the shutter open, or control it via a computer with leads and software.

Also, get the ISO (sensitivity) to around 400 or 800. I believe the Nikons aren't too bad for noise, so you will probs get away with 800.

Last thing, make sure the camera is saving pics as RAW files. Makes them more open to post-processing (that's how I understand it anyway...).

Andrew

[Psychobilly]

I have used Nikon DSLR's for a few years ... used a D200 for astro work for the last year but have recently got hold of a Canon 350D and DIY modded it for astro work.

Canons are much easier to use for astro work.

Billy...

[Kaptain Klevtsov]

Canons might be much easier to use, but if you have a Nikon, you use a Nikon. The IR blipper thingy costs about £15 from Jessops, or a lot less off E-bay from China, and allows long exposures above 30 seconds which is the maximum for my Nikons in normal manual mode. You set the camera to bulb mode and click once to open the shutter then again to close it.

Cameras are things that are nice to play with and get used to during the day, and you can do test shots with the lens cap on while watching telly.

Have a play, is my motto, and see what happens. DSLRs are free to run, which is great, you only need to spend time not money.

There are extra add on bits that you can use to automate the long exposures, but to start off the IR remote is all you need. And practise.

Kaptain Klevtsov

[Psychobilly]

I'm spoilt for choice realy

Nikon D200 & D50

Canon 350D modded

Konika Minolta 5D

Fancy a D90 as finaly Nikon might have got a decent sensor sorted for astro work and the HD movie mode looks interesting - wonder is they have sorted out the star eater...

Still use the Nikons for General Photography and still adding to the lens pool...

The Canon for IR and Astro - DSLR Focus and a DIY serial release makes life so much easier...

And the KM5D with its in body IS/VR gets an outing every now and again - Used to be a Minolta System man (9000 AF's in 35mm days) so was given it as a freebie when Konika Minolta pulled out of the DSLR Market

One day (or should that be night) i'll do a comparison of allt he DSLR's onthe same target.

The Canon is far superior in terms of ampglow and has had its filter removed - the Nikon is not too good for amp glow - the KM5D seems to have a slightly better spectral response for astro compared to the nikon.

But as KK said make the best of what you have got

[Andrew1972]

Many thanks everybody. Yes, 'unfortunately' i'm stuck with the Nikon although i'm definitely looking forward to seeing what I can get out of it! I've had it attached to the ED80 and successfully experimented with the shutter speed during the day/early evening. I did read that one of the main advantages of a Canon over a Nikon is the availability of compatible software. Could anybody recommend a decent Nikon-compatible program for focussing etc? Many thanks. Andrew.

[FLO]

I'm starting with a bit of daylight testing and have the camera attached to the ED80. I can achieve focus on the roof over the road but how would I go about taking the photograph? I've set the camera to manual but have gone no further with regards settings (as I haven't got a clue).

Not wishing to venture down the Canon v Nikon route but Canon's EOS series will meter and operate on aperture priority auto (Av) if the aperture is set to wide open (f1, from memory). Perhaps Nikon will do the same?

The above method isn't a lot of use for astro imaging....

[Psychobilly]

DSLR focus can sort of work with Nikons...by "watching" for images that appear in a folder (which can be the memory card in the camera) I havent tried this yet...it can also "interface" with the remote control software for the camera. Nikon Camera control Pro can be used to remote control the camera and downlaod images to the PC but limits maximum exposure time to 30S. I havent tried this method of operation though.

Don't get me wrong I used my D200 for astrophotography for a year but there was no way I was going to take that to bits to remove its filter as its my main "tool" for general photography.

Billy...

[ncjunk]

I have the D50 and it works great, I wouldn´t worry about the focuser yet I would (and did!) get

the remote as it is much more useful. you get used to focusing with the lcd and zooming.

Take a 10sec photo, check on the lcd then refocus and start again.

Tried camera control pro and it works great but is limited to 30sec exposures, you could use that to help

focusing then switch to the remote.

NC

[TimWilliamsbythesea]

OK here goes. I have the same camera and a Meade LX90.

I have used the camera reasonable successfully (I'll upload the image later to ukastronomers/TimWilliamsBSTimWilliamsBS) by switching the Camera to manual and using the scroll wheel back top right to set the shutter speed. Try ASA800 first and 1/60th. You have to manually focus. The next time there's a clear sky I'm going to try it with a Meade flip mirror so I can permanently mount the camera and use the eyepiece to focus. Use the screen on the D40 to assess the exposure and adjust accordingly. A remote control and a really rigid mount are pretty essential but for lunar imaging the Nikon is pretty good.

(click to enlarge)

[Psychobilly]

Hi Tim,

Nice moon shot

If your handy with a craft knife you might want to make one of these...

http://stargazerslounge.com/index.php/topic,30884.0.html

They arent meant for "extended" objects like the moon but allow you to get pinsharp focus on stars for imaging

If I haven't done one for the LX90 yet just let me know the details and i'll draw up and post the template

Billy...

Just checked I have done one for the 10" but not for the 8" yet...

Need the OD of the front of the OTA , Diameter of central obstruction and i can do it for you...

[TimWilliamsbythesea]

Will do - thanks.