Autoguiding Upgrade Tips Needed

[JohnSadlerAstro]

Hi,

Just ordered a lower level autoguiding upgrade for my EQ5 from FLO, for Birthday later this month. I am getting a ZWO colour planetary/guiding webcam, Cheshire collimator (to improve collimation and reduce streaking), and LP filter (to increase expo time before LP ruins background). I am planning to use the webcam for some planetary/lunar/solar imaging, hence the colour one (I know it's not as good as mono one for guiding but RGB filters, etc not really worth the extra money but slightly better guiding).  

For my 1st guided DSO, I'm thinking something large, like the Lagoon Nebula, as I can fit it perfectly into the FOV with 130Pds and 1000d. I will be using an independent programmable release for DSLR, with the cam connected to PC running free camera control program for instant SD-free upload and preview. I will use PHD2 for guiding, with a 30mm 50mm finder guider and 3d printed adapter.

Are there any key issues/trouble spots I need to be aware of, and how best should I approach implementing the kit upgrade?

John

[alacant]

1 hour ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

key issues/trouble spots

If you plan to shoot from UK, the lagoon is gonna be hard to guide. If you do decide to go ahead then run the guiding assistant for a worm cycle and set exactly what it says. That will help overcome the turbulence low down.

+1 for the Cheshire and do let us know how it goes. Good luck.

 

[kens]

Spend a bit of time in daylight making sure the autoguiding setup is working. Connect up the mount and guide cam/scope and PHd2. Point at something far enough away to focus. Use manual guiding option in PHD2 and set Guide Pulse duration to 5000ms. Then check that the mount moves in all 4 directions. It can be handy to take the opportunity to rotate the guide cam so that North-south moves up and down on the screen. Make troubleshooting a bit easier.

At night, do your rough PA then calibrate PHD2. If you can't get a good calibration do not proceed as your autoguiding wont work. 

I'm assuming you are ST4 guiding or that your mount can't tell PHD2 its declination. If so, and you then do a drift alignment (which I'd recommend) then calibrate near dec 0 degrees. You should aim to get your PA to within 10 arc minutes at the outside - I aim for 5 or less. If you need to make big changes to the bolts (1 degree or more) you should recalibrate.

Once you are aligned then run the guiding assistant as mentioned above.

After you slew to your target you will need to calibrate (again) on your guidestar.

It all sounds a bit tedious but if you can set up your tripod the same way each session, you may be able to get away with a quick drift alignment on azimuth only once you have altitude dialled in.

For a first target, I would recommend something higher in the sky.

 

[JohnSadlerAstro]

Thanks for the advice!  

John

[newbie alert]

A 30mm as a finder/guider sounds a bit small to me .a 9x50 wold be better..

I'm starting down this guiding road myself so will be following if you keep it updated

[JohnSadlerAstro]

3 minutes ago, newbie alert said:

A 30mm as a finder/guider sounds a bit small to me .a 9x50 wold be better..

I'm starting down this guiding road myself so will be following if you keep it updated

Hi,

I bought my finder off a guy on SGL who used one with the same setup as I have. I'm hoping I will be able to guide as well as him with the kit.

John

EDIT LOL! It is not a 30mm finder, it's a 50mm one!  

[newbie alert]

20 minutes ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

Hi,

I bought my finder off a guy on SGL who used one with the same setup as I have. I'm hoping I will be able to guide as well as him with the kit.

John

EDIT LOL! It is not a 30mm finder, it's a 50mm one!  

Ha..thought it sounded a bit small!!

Keep the updates coming...

[JohnSadlerAstro]

It's a standard Skywatcher 9x50 I bought of 'For Sale', came with a 3d printed adapter that allows a ZWO cam to screw into the back of the finder when the eyepiece and crosshair section is removed.

I'm still working on it, but I believe I can actually reverse the setup using the DSLR software I have, which can link into PHD. If I can arrange the necessary metalwork to allow the 1000d to attach to the finder, I could take very small FOV images. (though the DSLR 'guidecam' FOV would be so large compared to the webcam through the 130PDS I'm not sure I would be able to get it working )

John

[newbie alert]

I'd stick to the zwo..as it has far higher frame rates than a DSLR.. it's function is mainly live view..happy imaging and because of the size of the chip the stars will be far bigger..

Also you have to consider feature on the guider to camera..as the added weight of the 1000d could make you lose the guide star

 

[JohnSadlerAstro]

1 hour ago, newbie alert said:

I'd stick to the zwo..as it has far higher frame rates than a DSLR.. it's function is mainly live view..happy imaging and because of the size of the chip the stars will be far bigger..

Also you have to consider feature on the guider to camera..as the added weight of the 1000d could make you lose the guide star

 

Yeah, I think I will leave small FOV DSO imaging alone unless I get another small camera. I can always crop the DSLR's images, anyway.

John