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Is this normal?


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I had a quick look down the focuser through a film canister with a hole in it to see if collimation looked ok.

It looked ok (Explorer 200 btw) but I noticed that when I racked the focuser tube all the way I could see the 3 clips which hold the mirror, as you are supposed to, however when I racked the focuser tub out two of them disappeared.

My question is, should this happen and if so do you collimate with the focuser racked in or out.

Cheers.

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Focus tube should be IN when Collimating, beamer.

And as for the mirror clips, I can see mine as well when the focuser

is wound in, as well as the end of the focuser tube.

HTH

Nick.........

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There may be a little wow in your focuser tube. It probably won't amount to a hill of beans, but try doing a star test with your focuser and rack it out in both directions, and see if there is a significant difference. I always do my collimation with the focuser in its normal position, as I've usually left it there when I last used it.

And thanks for reminding me, I need to check my collimation. :shocked:

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I am not sure how to stop the movement in the focuser.

When I fitted my auto focuser yesterday I undid the bolts a little to kuch, as in all the way, and the focuser kinda came apart (I have the Crayford focuser which comes with the Explorer 200).

How do you stop such 'play' in a focuser.

I put it back together but I do not know if this existed before as to be honest I never checked.

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How do you stop such 'play' in a focuser.

I don't know if this'll help, but I managed to drastically reduce the slop in my C8-N focuser by removing the two grubscrews (the ones that are in line with and either side of the lock-screw) and replace them with a couple of knurled screws. I can now adjust these to make sure that the full length of the black plastic bearing-plate (that sits inside between the end of the lock-screw and the focuser barrel) is in full contact with the barrel, instead of just touching where the lock-screw is. Does that make any sense?

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